Jereme6655

i have no clue as to if anyone has ever tried it.......but i do know a few people who have blocked off the crossover tube....they say it doesn't appear to change anything. Larry's Shee has done it to his sons banshee and he said it still runs hard as shit........and he just used half inch pvc block off caps....

actually your "backfiring" may infact be a lean backfire.....the FMF fatties that your talking about really need to be using a 27.5 pilot..... mine did what your describing when it was running on stock pilots from the previous owner. threw in the 27.5 and it went like a raped ape....

a "wiseco/hot rods cranki"?? as far as i know they are two different companies....

did you install the rings correctly around the pins on both the carbs correctly?

fill your buddies shee with it........easy way to know if its mixed or if its not mixed. just make sure when he melts down that you go take back your race gas after he has to pull his tank......and mix....

okay.....squish isnt that hard to understand. Look at a banshee head if you have one....or can find a picture of one. Where the piston cut outs of the head are.....see how there appears to be a ring that is recessed a little bit and closer to the spark plug hole it suddenly shapes into a dome? Well squish is the distance between the top of the piston (at its outer edges) to the edge of the ring that is carved in the head. to check squish get yourself a piece of wire solder......then pull a spark plug and bend the solder so that it will reach into the spark plug and all the way over to the edge of the cylinder. make sure that the solder is facing to the side (ie 90* to the intakes or exhaust) then rotate the motor over. it will smash the solder flat.....measure (with a micrometer) that distance with different pieces of solder (for both sides of each piston) and that will give you your squish measurement

you can also just go and get your whole entire motor (even in pieces) and ship it to a site sponsor. they can assemble ALL of the motor for you and will guarentee their work. As for something that lasts......well that's up to your end when it comes to maintenance. I've dealt with jeff from FAST and he is top notch.......hell they called to tell me that they recieved my cylinders and that jeff himself would call me the next day cause he was a little busy.....he wanted to talk to me personally so that he could get a grasp on what kind of riding and what type of port work would best suit my style. Well.....he called me 2 hours later........and i will tell you this.....he ported my motor to EXACTLY what i was looking for..... A BIG thanks to Jeff and all the people at FAST. Also the plus side that you have when you go through one of our site sponsors.......they will damn near bend over backwards to help you if you have a problem.....even when it comes to tuning. Shit......jeff took time out of his day to help me dial my jetting in more after i sent him a picture of my plug chop while i was still up north and needing some help.

for $3000 you could have one of our site sponsors build you a motor that could be absolutely scary fast and alsmost stupid for a trail bike. Either way....if you buy a clymers manual you (or you and a friend if you have no mechanical abilities) can rebuild your bottom end.....its really not hard AT ALL. but $3000 is absolutely freaking retarted to pay for a bottom end.

im runnin in michigan around high 70's and low 80's at anywhere from 900-1300 feet. My bike... FAST dune/play port stock stroke vf 2 reeds fmf fatties and powercore 2 silencers 2-1 foam filter (no air box) milled head .030 wiseco prolites .010 over stock carbs (tors removed) right now im runnin with 320 mains, 30 pilots at 2.5 turns out on the air screws, and needle on the middle clip. On 93 pump gas. i was at a 27.5 pilot but it was boggy and sluggish off idle....and the air screw was 1.0 turns out....if you backed it out to 2 it would pop out of the exhuast when held at 5k rpm. jumped last weekend to a 30 and ran it......eliminated a decent amount of the off idle sluggishness and now air screws are 2 out. tried the needle clip one down (4th from top) to see if richer would help it......it was really throaty and choppy sounding.....kinda like it would gargle just before it came on the pipe. and you had to really fight to get it up to the pipe. pulled it apart and changed it back to middle clip position and it really helped....no more gargle before the pipe and its easy to get to the pipe. hey muggzy.....do you know if there is a specific way to guarentee that your needle is set right? or is it just a "set it how you like it" kind of feel. i understand how to read plug chops.....bu they only tell you whehter your mains are good.....so how do you check the needles? may be a few weeks before i can make it back up to northern michigan to do some riding....damn weddings and plans get in the freaking way of riding

who's the local pro? i live in fraser... curious as to who we ahve in the area...

MUGGZY.....that would be great if you could update me on your specs when you finally get your jetting dialed in...

AFTER making sure that your carbs have been throughly cleaned if it still does not idle and the idle speed needs to be increased..... WITH TORS..... you adjust the large screw (has a flat head slot in it) that is on top of the ugly TORS boxes....make sure to adjust them both equally. WITHOUT TORS.....look for the brass screws with jam nuts on the sides of your carbs.....start your bike and warm it up.....then loosen the jam nut so that the screws can be turned in or out. Re-start your bike and then hold it at a steady throttle position (where you want the idle speed to be set at) and then turn the brass screws in with your fingers until you slightly feel them bump into the carb slides......make sure both are just softly touching the slides........shut off the bike and then tighten the jam nut....

my pilot was at 27.5 but i had one hell of a bog and it would pop around 5k rpm if i didn't have the air screws at 1.0 turns out or less.......so this weekend i jumped my pilot up to a 30...seems to have gotten rid of most of the off idle boggy feel. also took my needle clip up one notch from the 4th down.....she was REALLY garglie (struggled to get it on the pipe unless i was stabbing into the throttle and it was coming on the pipe really late). moved the needle to the middle position and it really helped. now im really close on the jetting so i just need a few more little test and tune moments and i should be good.

larry's shee is right....that is a good write up. its not hard....it'll take you a probably about a half hour to do both carbs. Yes the frankenstien things on the carbs are part of the TORS.....and yes you need to get a kit to remove them. or you can buy everything seperate......but why do that....its cheaper to get the kit through our site sponsors here. Have you tried adjusting your idle? on a bike that still has the TORS boxes on the carbs there is a knob on the top of each that has a slotted spot for a flat headed screwdriver. turning both of those equal amounts starting with 1/2 turns will increase your idle.

occasionally when some ride with pods they wind up having to custom create a bracket to screw to the front of the pod to keep them from wobbeling off......we had to use some pretty big hose clamps on blue angels bike to keep them from wiggling off on the trails.......

just remember that if your going to be buying a lock-out then your going to need to buy a lockout cover as they will not fit under the stock clutch cover.......however there is one that will and its called the slingshot. it uses ball bearings as the weights to increase or decrease the holding force (you can adjust the clmaping force by adding or subtracting ball bearings) You should be able to shift during high rev situations......it may be just barely harder to pull the clutch....but not a big problem...

are you trying to start it on the first few kicks with the choke all the way out? i'd check compression next and see whats going on.......its kind of odd that your bike is fighting this bad.....

alright....so depending on what happens causing you to need a rebuild depends how many bores you have left. IF you just ride it and maintain it and it just needs a rebuild because its worn out.....then you can bore in .010 increments all the way up to .080 (some will say you can bore up to a full .100 but don't do it.....the walls are too thin then) so you in THEORY if everything goes good......have 4 more rebuilds left. Now if you need a rebuild and you continue riding on it or you put in crap pistons that break or fold a ring over because of neglegence when you assemble then the machine shop will need to bore more out to get hte scratches out. you CAN resleeve banshee cylinders......however its not really super cost effective.....remember....you've got 2 cylinders to sleeve. Most people on here will just buy new cylinders....

he already said that he doesnt feel like having to buy 110 all the time as its pretty expensive.....

it very well could be in the caps like you believe.....im wondering if you have a slight leak/loose fitting cap and its sucking in a little water and jamming the carb slides. my suggestion would be to call a site sponsor and explain your problem and that your changing to a different carb and see what they recommend for a jetting starting point.....after that its up to you to do plug chops and tweak here and tweak there....

okay....so... going in incremints of .010 bore jobs you can squeeze 8 bores out of them without problems.....that is if you only go .010 per bore. A banshee that is bore out to .040 (40 over) is not going to be faster....the pistons are .040 inches wider in diameter.....nothing major. hell you would BARELY be able to compare them side by side to and see a difference. just because a 2-stroke has been rebuilt or bored out to .040 does not mean it is or is not reliable. what determines the factor in how the guy assembled it. if they just threw it together then who knows how long it will last. if the guy was a FREAK about tolerences and took his time and knew what he was doing, then it should last.

yea yoru having an issue.....either your bike isn't running right or your buddy is hiding what he really has.....there is no way a dune port with 19cc domes should be running you down.....ESPECIALLY if you get the hole shot. His bike should be struggling just to keep you in-sight....

hey sparky......how about a video of where/how to fix the idler gear for when people can't get their kickstarted to move because the gear is jammed and also how about one on how to adjust the ecentric screw for the trans.... just some thoughts....

why not go to a lock-up......or even a slingshot lockup that will fit under the stock clutch cover...

your carbs could either have a bad needle in them, or your float heights are set incorrectly. it may be flooding your motor out over night and causing it to create a very hard start situation.....try leaving it sit overnight again with the fuel valve turned OFF.....then in the morning, turn the fuel back on and then try and start the bike...