Jereme6655

not necessarily....if you watched exhaust temperatures on 2strokes and 4 strokes.....when you lean them out you get a REALLY hot exhaust temp. way above normal. With 2 strokes, when you lean the hell out of them it will actually melt holes through the piston tops. i was kinda confused about it to until i thought about it a little bit more and started to guess that the fuel coming in was quenching the piston and cylinder walls and slightly cooling them down.

my first suggestion is to keep shit simple.....id start with a simple compression test and see what you get. if one cylinder is way lower than the other.....or if both cylinders are below 90 psi you found your culprit. do that test first and then let us know what your test shows. remember.....screw in tester, hold throttle wide open.....kick til guage stops going up (may even take 20 kicks)

negative on powerder coat.....they aren't coated. its just the casting.....nothin to worry about. but damn you have some metal tucked in those corners and in the drain groove....

more bling that anything. but YES i have watched my temp guage while riding just to see what happens at different rpms..... i've discovered that if im just doin the putt-putt and not in the powerband it will start to get warmer than im comfy with. and ive also discovered that if you run it up into the powerband (not screaming in the powerband but towards the begining and middle of it) and blip the throttle (kinda like us snowmobile riders learned to ride) it will actually bring your temp down quickers. only reason i can think of this is the extra fuel your bringing into the cylinders doing a full throttle blip without letting the motor start to rev to consume all the fuel....

wait......you were moving wires around trying to get it to start? as in the stator was not spinning so your chanrging system was not running so your bike shouldn't have been producing electricity? did you actually see the spark....or did you actually just FEEL the spark. could it have been an old plastic tie on a wire loom or could it have been the old tape that crunched cause its all dry rotted now and that's what you though you felt through a wire?

yes....there are a few people that have done it. actually more than a few. HOWEVER.....there have been instances where the porting of the piston intake windows have cracked and shattered the pistons skirt.....causing chaos in the cases. If i had the money i would try to do both....run a motor with new pistons, and then run the same motor after opening up the windows. but since im not made of moeny.....no dice.

This is definately the right forum. First thing id do is do a leakdown test and compression test. The compression test will give you an idea of what shape the cylinders are in based on the compression test reading....anything around 100would warrant a rebuild. The leakdown test will help you identify if you have an air leak anywhere. In a 2stroke air leaks are the devil as they will lean out your fuel/air mix causing your motor to heat up way more than it should which can result in holes being melted in your pistons among other things. Oil ratios vary by person....I run 32:1 with amsoil hp injector. Most will recommend 32:1 with a good oil......with HIGH quality synthetics you can stretch it out to 40:1.....but imho 50:1 is too little oil for comfort. I would recomend doing the test I mentioned above and then fighting any suspension bolt and greasing the zirc fittings. Along with purchasing a clymers manual.....it describes all the info you need inorder to repair and rebuild your bike. Other than that......just have some fun on it.....if it breaks then fix it. Hell repairing these things is fun as hell too.

Yep.....he's a great guy and so are his employees.....they can build some seriously mean bikes.

I've tried the heat gun tehnique......and honestly I don't care doin it that way. It seems to offset the shine on decent plastics. Personally I use a regular propane torch (on a low flame) and work the under-side of the plastics. It seems to keep from destroying the shine. It takes multiple passes over the same spot to do it right.....and you can get it too hot. Just work on one spot for a few passes then move onto a differentspot while it cools and then come back to it later. Yes it is a slow process but it works really good.

Is this going into a trail bike? If so you may want to rethink it......while they do look good with polished parts.....they require alot of upkeep for the polished surfaces. Im not saying don't do it.....cause the guys on here are absolutely awsome at doin the work.....but I wouldn't advise doin it unless it were a drag bike.

Leave the e85 to your friends.....just cause they do run it doesn't mean they should run it. There are too many variables that are unknown still when it comes to e85 and 2strokes.

fouled plug? running lean? check your pick-up coil gap?

there is a sticky on the top of the general section that describes how to build one and how to test with it. it is a tool to help you find where there is/if there is any leaks in your motor.

it doesn't have to be a big leak at all to lean it out enough to make it rev and to melt a hole in your piston....

anybody else find it odd that everyones trying to help a guy who want to know how to maintain a bunch of sets of balls that are in his rear end???

are you sure the carb slides are in the correct carbs......they are side specific. The half moon cut out goes towards the rear of the bike....

where at in michigan? 100 is gettin pretty low....but its not totally to the rebuild point. and depending if the rings are what has worn or if the cylinders have worn down into a egg shape from natural wear.......just ordering rings could be just a bandaide fix....

pull your carbs apart one at a time (as they have different internals that are side specific) and clean them.....make sure to blow out all the passage ways AND make sure you can pass a piece of wire or something skinny through the jets....if they are plugged even a little bit it will cause issues...

you could run a stock stroke serval....

to answer your question julien.....yes they CAN run good in very cold weather.....HOWEVER....you must change your carbeurator jetting in order to keep enough fuel running to your engine (which in a 2stroke is also your lubrication) or else it will cause your pistons to melt.

actually when it comes to 2strokes......they require LESS adjusting than a 4 stroke......whether built or not. No valves, no valve lash, no taming chain or tensioners....... the jetting changes.....yes depending on variables such as humidity temp and elevation you do need to change it........however temp and humidity have to change by ALOT in order to goof you up. Once your dialed in for riding in your normal area, alot of people wont change it until they either wind up going to try somewhere else where there is a drastic changin elevation or if they decide to ride during the winter. Granted you do see guys that do drag races checking hte jetting like freaks......but that's part of what they do to get down the track that much faster......when your on trails you don't need to be checking your jetting as often....

yea yank that ricky stator crap off your bike. i bet it'll start a million times easier when you go back to stator. Also id still do a leakdown test and check........then after its running i would do another plug chop and check your jetting. The reason i say this is because for being at 1400 ft above sea level and only having T5 pipes.......310 is a pretty freakin big main jet. i could see if you were runnin a port job but you don't mention that at all.....

im pretty sure that dirty is right on this.......if i remember correctly when you face the "up" i beleive the raised grooves in the gasket wind up on the top (head) side of the assembly

stainless steal water impeller huh?

your running more octane than you need. remember.....fuel doesn't add horsepower.....it just tames the ignition for motors THAT NEED IT. In wrong applications it can actually run worse. 290 sounds like your running fat as hell on the mains.....i was running 290 wth fmf fatties a 2-1 filter and vf2's @ +4. so if you still have stock pipes i believe that you may be rich on the main.