Jereme6655

They all came with keys stock.....

Did you by chance clean the carbs at the same time? The internal carb parts ARE side specific and can cause trouble when inter-changed. Do you have enough fuel......I know it sounds stupid but I've seen it before. Check your fly-wheel key.....it could have also sheared off. But first throw some new plugs in it! And I know im gonna catch Shit for this one....but try and bump start it with a small amount of starting fluid....

so when people try to kick it to steal it the compression will kick back and break his ankle???

alot of people know it......BUT alot of people don't know what backing out spark plugs mean. When a spark plug (that has been tightened down correctly) backs itself out is because of the hammering effect that it is going through do to detonation. The constant hammering on the plug will cause it to actually loosen itself....... so word to the wise.....if your plugs start backing themselves out.....you better start looking around for a way to fix it....

X2.... about elevation......however that does sound lean on the mains. And droping down to a 13 front tooth will definately help you out in the low end....however you wont have the top speed you had before. if your running trails or woods i would drop to the 13. HOWEVER......watch out hwen you do....cause if your not ready for it the bike is gonna come up really hard on the back wheels....just be ready to change your riding style to suit the new gearing...

i think its a pretty good price. i'd say go for it....as long as you check things out first. Check list: -Does the guy have a title? -Is the frame in decent shape? (check by standing it up on the rear grab bar and look at it. -Check to make sure the front end isn't loose. -Does the engine have good compression? (with a compression guage and holding WOT kick it until needle stops moving...on a stock bike anything about 110 is decent. 125 is usually JUST after a rebuild. around/under 90 is rebuild time) (compression may be higher if he's got internal mods) -How are the brakes and rotors? -Check around the frame real good a second time to see if its been cracked or repaired in any way. After that......id say it aint a bad deal at all.

alot of times it is a carb issue due to problems with dirty fuel and/or old fuel. Sometimes it can be caused by other things such as perofrmance parts that require a carb rejetting and it hasn't been done so it does the same symptom because the bike can't get enough fuel to run 2 cylinders. If one of your plug wires broke that stands out to me as a big problem. You may be having cylinder running issues because your plug wires are so old and brittle they can't send spark anymore. Or you may have some dirt clogged in your carbs. My suggestion is to get yourself some new plug wires first and try that. If it doesn't work then i would pull your carbs and break each one down and clean the hell out of them and all the passage ways in them including the main and pilot jets.......DO THIS ONE CARB AT A TIME....as each one has side specific parts that you actually can switch into the opposite carb....but it will cause more issues. Keep us posted...

correct.... 32:1 is 4oz of oil per gallon of fuel.

hey shayne....is there a internet style approval that is allowed to show support? i bet we could get a decent amount of the guys here to show support as everyone wants to see more tracks (opened legally) around the U.S.

congrats man.......sounds like you got a keeper!

Okay.....I think I understand what your problems are. When you took the "screw" out of the caliper (hoping it WAS the bleeder screw) you introduced air to the rear brake system. Air is compressable so if you step on the rear brakes they are not going to do a whole lot. What you need to do is make sure your brake resi is full then make sure that bleeder is tight. Then you are going to PUMP the brakes until the seem to get hard...then HOLD the brake pedal down while you just LOOSEN the bleeder. Fluid and air should come out from the bleeder......DO NOT LIFT OFF THE BRAKE PEDAL!!! If it starts going down then keep it mashed down. If you lift your foot its going to re-introduce air......again that's bad. With your foot still down re-tighten the bleeder screw and now you can lift off the pedal. Check your resi and add more fluid.....then keep repeating the procedure until there is no more air or bubbles coming out of the bleeder. Oh and make sure your brake.caliper is bolted up and your pads are on.....otherwise the brake can extend too far and do damage to itself...

Larry has got it right.....to rid your carbs of fuel....just shut the gas line off (or drain tank first) then open the bowl drains on your carbs.....this will get out all that is needed for storage. But running your carbs out of fuel is a bad thing to do....it dns your bike out of fuel along with running it out of lubrication. And 2strokes have a tendency to "free-rev" or "run-away" which is caused by the lean condition.....so basically it will rev itself up while its also running out of lube. And bike or woman.....you don't wanna run out of lube while she's speeding up......

correct....there are only two oil in banshees. There is the crank case oil and there is premix oil. EVERYONE will have different opinions on what to run or what they prefer to run. Some will say only use ATF Type F in the crankcase and some will say to only run synthetic oil meant for WET CLUTCHES only. When it comes to running 2stroke premix oils......you can actually run a little bit leaner with quality synthetic oils. there are many that run 40:1 with synthetics and have no problems at all. Hell there's even a few that run 50:1

while trinity has been making their name a little better on here recently....i would still choose to go with either Jeff at F.A.S.T. or Kevin at Herr Juggs Racing. i've dealt with jeff before and he is an absolute awsome guy. and i have heard nothing but good things about HJR.... those are my choices and those are who i would steer you towards....

you can look around in our for sale section......or ask in the for sale section to see if anyone has a set of j-arms. most of us that are on this site will help a brother out. i bet you can find yourself a set that's cheaper than you expected.

if you take your time and think things through a little you will be able to do it.....with some help from either a clymers manual or from your factory service manual. MAKE SURE YOU WASH AND DEGREASE YOUR ENGINE REALLY GOOD BEFORE YOU REMOVE IT FROM THE FRAME! (you'll thank yourself later for doing this). There is a half-moon piece behind the clutch pack that must be removed BEFORE you split the cases as it holds the two case halves together. Another thing i would highly suggest is to go out and purchase two tools. The first is a flywheel puller. It threads into your flywheel and then uses a bolt that is bulit in to press the flywheel off. DO NOT USE A JAW STYLE PULLER.....as it will mis-shape your flywheel and you will be screwed. the flywheel puller is at max $13. The other tool is a clutch removal tool. You will be using this to clamp down on the inner clutch hub to hold it from turning while you remove the large nut. it basically looks like a big ass set of vice grips with extended jaws and a 90* bend at the end so you can grap things sideways. This will keep you from breaking the inner hub. but just remember.....take your time and have fun.....working on these bikes can be just as fun and enjoyable as riding them. pm me if you need any help or have any questions about my post....

how about your jets. what jets are in your bike......both main and pilot jet sizes. And what elevation are you at with what mods done to your motor. i know you did it to help diagnose your issue your having but shutting the fuel off and letting it run out in a mixed fuel 2stroke is not good for it.

you bike is shaking because of a number of things. 1) your b all joints are screwed. 2) your tie-rods are probably screwed too 3) your shocks are blown out 4) your bushing must be shot cause you have replacements. personally i wouldn't even throw a leg over your bike the way it is right now. Not saying your bikes a piece or anything.....im just saying that when it comes to maintenance (on certain things such as the front end) i can get real particular when it comes to shakey bikes. Think about it........why in the hell would i want to even go anywhere NEAR 70......let alone 20... when you just admitted that your ball joints are toast. Think of the destruction that will happen if your going down a trail and a ball joint cuts loose. Hello oak tree. even if you were just testing and tuning in a subdivision.......shit....imagine droppin a ball joint and having that shit dig into the asphalt at 70.....hell you better have a decent helmet and damn good medical coverage. But to be honest it just sounds like you need to spend a couple days checkin out your front end. flip the bike up on its grab bar and check all of your nuts and bolts, ball joints, tie rods, bushings......everything. The front end of a bike is not an area to rush while putting it together or while making repairs......too much can go wrong.

Screw compression tester in. Ignition switch off. Hold throttle wide open. Kick til need stops moving. If your cylinders only had 30 psi in them.....you wouldn't even be able to kick start it.

X2 if I ever decide to get the flex bars im going to get a under the seat bracket....or make one. How many people trying to steal your Shit at a restaurant or camp when your there are gonna have the time to look under the seat to diagnose the no-start issue....

how about when you purge.....does it seem to be running fine then also?

Are you trying to swap arms or shocks? Most here just swap to yfz 450 shocks....I haven't heard of anyone using the arms though...

you should do a compression test to see where your compression is...that way you can get a fairly safe idea of what fuel you can run.... then you need to pull your carb apart and find out what jets are in it. and report back!

Well if it "blew smoke" out of the airbox and if it almost blew your intake off or your cylinders then....well buddy you got yourself one hell of a backfire...

Razr 2's......what came on my bike when i got it. 6ply and have the lugs that really stick out good to the edge. They have the perfect amount of traction and with the right amount of throttle you can still crack 'em loose with some power when you need to. absolutely no complaints.....and i've been runnin em for a while now....barely any noticable wear on them.