Jereme6655

Have you tried going up 1-2 sizes on the pilot jet? Sounds like it may be a little lean on the pilot as you say its hard to start....usually that is a symptom of it...also with the dropping temperatures the jetting becomes leaner making the bikes harder to start.

So basically your buddy had you bench bleed the master cylinder....glad it worked out for you. Basically you just took the long /harder version of puttin the end of the line back into the resi and pumping it to draw in fluid through the master and pump the bubbles out. Glad it worked for you.

A 4mil wont do alot without getting your jugs ported for the 4mil. That being said its highly doubtful that a builder can report those cylinders. Best bet would be to buy a set of jugs off of someone that are either already ported or on stock port and have them ported.

Uhhhhhh.... What? Ive never heard of anyone doin this AT ALL. If your really serious then i guess you could see if a vinyl supplier for graphic companies sells clear.....

And also learn to ride...no offense....but watching my temp I've noticed if I lug my motor it will build unwanted heat....whereas getting it up on the pipe would drop the temp

If you are running an aftermarket head then yes its just o-rings that may be pinched or damaged. If its a stock head then you need a stock head gasket. You should be able to tell by the spark plug......if it looks alot cleaner than the left plug then its burning it.....same with the piston top.

Kevin at Herr Jug Racing or Jeff at F.A.S.T. can take care of you...

Another carb question? Your asking that in here.....yet a day ago you made an actual post about this same thing......apparently you ignore the good advice that people have listed for you on your other post....

I it starts wth your hand pushing down on it then you've got an awesome problem. These engines rarely can be started by hand.....even if they're on fresh rebuilds. Mostly they get HARDER to start if the compression falls because the motor needs to be spun that much faster to get it to start. Check the compression WITH A GAUGE.....then report back...

Prime example is me....I went to my cites police auction looking for a snowmobile.....came home with a 2001 shee with FMF fatties, vforce 2 reeds, aftermarket bars, 2-1 air filter, new wheels, new tires, and a new front bumper.....and still on the stock bore.........for $1675. The point is that there are WAY better prices that you will be able to find.....and trust me.....youll wind up building the bike up.....so why not buy one with some things already on it so you don't have to pay more???

115 is fine......after a rebuild your more than likely only going to come up with 120-125 as a reading...

ItI all depends on whethyou can handle the hit from the banshee motor...live seen a few four stroke riders nearly eat it because they weren't used to the hit that a banshee can bring when it gets up on the pipe. I'd call the previous owner and ask what kinda of cylinder setup the mono block is and what bore it was on. If your not gonna really ride anything but trails you may want to look into selling it to one of us.....maybe me haha. the 28mm carbs will be okay for the trails also.

Wheelman chassis (a site sponsor on here) can do it.... That being said his site (wheelman chassis.com) lists it as $45 per carb for straight bores and $50 a carb for tapered bores. I don't know if there is a disassembly/reassembly fee......it'd be best to check with him to make sure....

Ok....you WILL need that bored over. First....the port there is screwed....see the top lip of the port there that looks smashed? That is gonna need boring to get that lip out. AND we can easily see in your picture that above the exhaust port there ARE wear marks in your cylinders...... If you don't want to bore it then fine. But when the pistons that you order for that explode into shrapnel or break the skirts off because the tolerances arent right I'm gonna have to say "I told you so" Honestly if your going to go through all this damn hassle and not bore it you might as well just give me your money.... It will be an extra 100 to do the job right....or it will be another 300 when the pistons come apart after you put them in without doing the job right.

By far the best thing you can do is take a compression gauge with you when you check out a Bike. If you haven't torn anything apart yet then do a compression test and build yourself a leak down tester....... Do both test and then report back. And if you can turn a screwdriver and a wrench then you can do the rebuild yourself.......and if you go through a builder it will only be about 300 to do the rebuild.

A small amount of air is totally. As the pressure from inside the motor (on the top end) rises from the compression of the air/fuel charge.....it will push those reeds shut the rest of the way...

I think part of your problem is your jetting. Mine ran like crap when I first picked it up.....mainly because the previous owner had installed FMF fatties and had not changed the jetting. So my symptoms where it would run.....seemed like it wounded off....kinda off when idling but it was still running alright......and if I wanted to move it I had to feather the shit out of it and really pump the throttle to get it up to anything more than 1/4 throttle. And whenever I let off the throttle from 1/4 throttle it would cut one of the cylinders out. I wasn't sure if it was doing it at idle at first because I hadnt paid that much attention to it at first......then I realized it was also cutting out when returning to idle from a rev up. Hopped on the HQ here and figured out I needed bigger pilots. The FMF fatties like a 27.5 pilot.....go get a set from a dealer or from a sponsor (preferably) and slap em in and let us know!

Yep....because ALL electronics have a shelf life.....and when your gettin smacked with that kind of a jolt up to 10k a minute.....your gonna get crabby too. But in all honesty it is a problem that a lot of guys on here have had. Its pretty common for the cables to test out of spec and give all sorts of odd ball problems and symptoms.....

Shit. Good call sand rider....It was early....haha... Ya now I see that one.....damnit I need more coffee in the mornings....

And the clutch holding tool is helpful. They really are super simple to pull apart. And you don't really need to pull your top end off either if it's just to inspect the transmission......just flip it upside down and split the cases.....youll be able to inspect the trans and the shift shafts without taking the top tend off....

You need either a new set of TORS units.....or a TORS eliminator kit. Eventually if you hang on to your bike long enough you are going to need to take the TORS off or at least replace them again as it seems that everyone here has had a problem with them at one time. They can cause everything from a fake rev limiter feeling to a no run situation. True you can just unplug them.....however then you have those big clunky things on top of your carbs that make it WAY harder to work on. The screw piece that are looking for is actually the idle adjustment. If you go through one of our great site sponsors you can get the TORS eliminator kits that have the new tops for the carbs, the new throttle cable, 2 idles screws, a drill bit and a tap for installation on your carbs.....also instructions

This is why you don't rip apart BOTH of your toys at the same time! That would be like getting 2 girlfriends pregnant at the same time......may be fun at the moment.....but your just shooting yourself in the dick later.... These things sound like they are gonna be whicked....I wonder if they were made to resemble a reverse v-notch belt pulley for a car......so fatter down by the chain and skinnier up top where the rocks could get in.l...l.wonder if that would aid in thera gravel issue........or course it could also get in there and just be that much harder to get out....

Looks Ike too much in those pistons if you ask me......only way to really tell is to get them mic'ed at a machinist......I'd recommend any site sponsor on here for the rebuild and bore/hone

Amont... You MUST rejet before you run your bike when you do larger mods (like what you just did) or else you are running the risk of having to throw out those pistons and send those cylinders back to a machine shop to bore/hone them again. Stock jetting (if that is what is really in your bike) should be around a 25 pilot jet and a 200 main jet. If you have pipes I would suggest starting with a 27.5 pilot and at least a 270 main....but more likey around a 280-290. This is if you are around 1500 ft in elevation. Also with a port job your probably looking at more like a 310-330 main If you just did your TORS eliminator kit also then you are going to have to check to see if your carbs are in sync with each other (making sure they open t the same rate and are open the samwe amount at idle) You need to read up more on how to do a leak down test and then also read on how to do a plug chop.

That cause you know what lean and rich feel like cam haha......us tuning challenged....need a title help. Kinda Iike the kids who need the paint by numbers in order to draw something....