Jereme6655

wiesco are forged pistons and namura are cast pistons.....you dont want cast pistons when something fails.... like dirty said......wiesco are proven. namura is what comes stock in the banshees

either look at the exploded views in the manuals or look at www.cheapcycleparts.com and their OEM parts finder has the exploded view of the entire bike

there will be numbers stamped on the sides of those needles.....find them both....write them down and then call one of our sponsors and tell them that you have 2 different needles in your bike and tell them your mods and they will recommend which needles

wow.... the "long standing atv benchmark"......and it only took 900 cc's to make 100hp. wow. i wonder how much one of us could squeak out of a bike if we took and dropped in something that added 200cc's and had it ported and piped and all..... funny part is AFTER all that id like to see the bills and the credit statments hahaha...

230-240 isprobably gonna be close if its cold out and youve got the k and n lid and no snorkel. however your just going to have to rejet again when you get pipes..... Like stated below....depends what kind of riding your going to be doing to help choose a pipe. there are some pipes that do really well on a ported motor....some on stock motors......some pipes that do great for drag racing and other that do good in tight trails....

while you have the motor down this far.....id suggest doing some shift mods. Like taking off that shift star and modifying it (theres a few pics on here and a write up of how to do it) to allow the drum to turn a little easier when your foot jams on the shift lever. Also i'd recomend doing the shift shaft mod.....which allows the shifter to most slightly farther up when you shift.....as the banshee has a very short throw for the shifter. You would think the shoft throw would be a positive.....until your not paying attentino and try to snap the end of your foot off with a shift....i swear i thought i broke my toes when i rode my buddies (who has not moddified it yet) versus mine which i did a long time ago........made riding not fun...

the prodesign head is basically the same thing as the Noss head.......HOWEVER.....the pro design head requires the use of longer studs. So you have to double nut the studs on the cylinders to get them out and install slightly longer studs....site sponsors also carry these studs...

They are actually machined while torqued together for tolerance reasons. You can usually get a set of good cases on here or craigslist for roughly $100-150

Haha....these things actually aren't hard once you do one..... That being said where are you located.....one of us hq guys may be right around the block from you!

If your in deep enough to do the pilots then you should just as well clean em all the way...

Haha.....he said go with our OTHER sponsors lol. The cranks have an issue of actually separating (spreading apart) or coming out of true. When you send your crank out they make sure it is true and then they weld the pins that are press fit into the crank to hold it in place. If you ARE planning on going to a larger crank then you should make sure they weld it when you get it from the sponsors

your going to get some different answers here...... i don't believe the cdi has a rev limiter in it....... however some will say that the TORS system or the parking brake system will limit the revs....basically making it a rev limiter. BUT then you'll also get others who say that the parking break and TORS are not a rev limiter at all......its a little confusing haha. Are you having a problem with a rev limiter type of issue on your bike or are you just curious?

450's are not something to under estimate. BUT here is the kicker......you will be able to spend WAY WAY WAY less than your buddies have on mods and be able to get your bike to absolutely fly compared to theirs. And then theres the rebuild factor. you can rebuild an average banshee for around $300 which is the pistons, bore and hone, new gaskets. Let your friends try and do a rebuild for $300. Do you ride muddy trails or come in contact with alot of water? if you do NOT....id get some pod style filters, advance your timing to +4, and sync the carbs and make sure the setup is dialed in right. This will give you just barely a little more while still being conservative with the cost. If you want to get more bang for your buck and really make your friends scratch their heads.....you could either go with a port job from one of our great sponsors on here (i use jeff at FAST but i hear that kevin at HJR and the others are just as good) and you will really be amazed at the quality of work and the amount of power these guys can squeeze out of stock cylinders. Also you could upgrade your front suspension to a +2+1 front end and get better shocks......while the banshee is a great machine....they lack in the suspension and geometry department. If you upgrade that suspension you wiill be able to go alot faster over the bumps....remember...just cause you have the power doesn't mean you can get over the bumps quickest....

You can also completely remove the key switch and install a tether switch. That way your using the tether as a safety device and also as a kill switch. And it can also be used as a key in a way....

Are the carb slides in the correct way? The half moon cut out should be facing towards the air filter side of the bike.....amowt sounds like it could be what's causing that...

Also.....have you connected the choke tube between the carbs? What is your elevation and what temp is it near you? Cold be running it really fat and fouling plugs...

Different bearings though.....but that doesn't mean the Cranks are not the same...

Appears to have been run a little lean. Looks like it almostunched through the crown of the piston there too cause of how long it was run lean....

your friend needs to learn to ride....as there shouldn't be any reason that a stock stroke ported bike is being a 421 serval setup. something is wrong....

mine has always been super loose too jared......never a problem. but the last set of cases i opened up i really had to work to get the damn shift star off the shaft......kinda threw me for a loop. i usually just use a flat head and wiggle it in carefully behind it and they pop.....this last one took a little more finesse though.

nope....we dont mind. First you need to decipher whether you have a TORS eliminator kit on your carbs or not. If there are large silver colored boxed that are connected to your carbs through the carb caps then you still have the stock tors. if they are not there then you have the elimintor kit. If it was fully installed then there should be a larger style screw on the outbound side of each carb. That screw would be your idle screw then. HOWEVER....if you still have the TORS boxes still on your carbs then your idle adjustment would be the large knobs on the tops of those boxes accessed by removing your seat. The small screw that i believe you may be talking about is your idle/air screw.

Also make sure you check your spark plugs.....they were leaking on my bike when I did a leak down test on her......

Well you definitely have a fuel issue in the carbs as they could be filling and draining fuel into your pipes.... Also what is your compression at on the bike? Doing a leak down on the motor is definitely a good thing to help diagnose a hard start.

Also make sure you are cleaning the carbs peeper rate as there are side specific things on each carb. S to ease things just finish cleaning and reassembling one before cracking into the other. IF you open both up at the same time.......I use small aluminum foil pans to keep the parts seperate. The other thing that's great is yon use those same disposable aluminum pans to drain your oil into and after you pour the oil out of it you can just toss it.

The choke tube is just a small tube that goes in between the carbs (in line with the choke knob) to allow both carbs to engage the choke circuit. There is a nipple in both carbs inline with the choke knob that this tube connects to.....if it is not connected it will not allow the bike to start easily. Also make sure you have not mixed up the carb parts as some of the parts such as the bowl are side specific.