Jereme6655

When did this start? After you did a mod or just randomly. Im starting to wonder if your having some problems with either backfires or with the dome design that your running causing excessive pressure directed where it shouldn't be.......

technically you shouldn't need the parts to assemble the lower end and seal them up.....however id just choose to wait myself.

i know our sponsors either know who does it or they will have it done for you.......but im pretty sure its millenium that does it.

There is also a shift shaft mod that allows the shifter to move farther up when you lift with your foot. i did it to mine and i tried riding my buddies the summer.....thought i was going to break my foot with how short the throw is on the shifter....makes it alot more comfy in my opinion.....

yes you want to bend the solder at 90* and then place it INLINE with your wrist pins.......so you want to put the solder in and to the SIDE of the bike.....and make sure it is up against the cylinder wall so that you get a clear reading....

kinda odd that a guy who lives in a state where we have to pay deposit on pop/beer cans designs a can crusher.....hahaha. Freakin sweet though JD! If we didn' get our deposits back id be crushin the shit outta those things!......course you could also design the bottom plate into a grid form and use it as a french fry maker....hah

you are going to need to do that top end (because that is getting seriously low) and then get some filters. figure $300 for rebuild and about $40-50 for filters. Then pipes, fluid changes, brake pad changes, cool head, jets for carb jetting, new grips (if needed).....this should be a decent start. I would also suggest (since the bike is new to you) that you split the cases while you have the cylinders out for bore/honing. This way you can assure that things are healthy inside the motor.....no one wants to pull cases apart JUST after they've rebuilt the top end cause something went bad in the lower end....

id still suggest tearing it down....it'll take you less than a full weekend. just think....if you tear it down now and find a bad crank bearing your looking at a $40-60 fix (depending on the bearing you want to put back in) but if you dont tear it down and run it hard and its eats the bearing.....its not only gonna screw with your crank and cases....but if its spits that bearing up into the top end then its gonna do the "cha-cha im gonna stomp all over your shit" dance on your pistons and cylinders. So you would LITERALLY go from a $40 fix to a $1000 repair. Not worth it in my opinion. Just my opinion though...

i DOUBT he read shit other than 3 posts......if he had then he would have seen that we were explaining that manuals help, and that if you explain things we can help walk you through things...unfortunately......THIS GUY DID NOT WANT TO CONTINUE TRYING TO FIX IT.....but the jack-wagon that says "this so far is the worst forum ive ever seen for solving problems" hasn't read shit....

did you see where he posted that hes running a 17tooth front sprocket? shit you could put a pro rider on it and he'd still get a shit kickin' from a stock shee or that 450. He's got it geared WAY too high.

you SHOULD be ok running 21cc domes..... +4 is what most of us stick to when advancing our timing. Id call a sponsor (or message them on here) like Jeff at F.A.S.T. or Kevin at Herr Jugs Racing and ask their advice....they're super awsome guys and can get you the parts for your bike also. Id also talk to Mattscs...he rebuilds suspension components and can steer you in teh right direction for a suspension that will make your bike faster.....just cause you have the power doesn't mean you can get over the bumps/ruts fastest...

so your going to fuck over some poor bastard with a cr? that's not exactly a manly thing to do. Own up and be a man and fix it....or take it somewhere.....like a reputable shop. or better yet....send your motor to a sponsor and have them fix it.

hahaha....i know i understood you there freakshow....i just think tedd wasnt paying attention to the face that you were clearly stating that you have never run alky in a bike where it had no actual engine oil for the crank to bathe in. i think he just thought you may have been typing one of the no nonsense arguements that some jack-wagon know-it-all morons out there throw around...

CFH is correct.....your bike does not need 34mm carbs. Hell the banshee comes stock with 26mm carbs........however your bike will run great with 28mm carbs and still give you some room if you start throwing parts and port jobs at it.

yup....there's a difference.....the 2005 one is on a 5 year newer bike than the 2000. There were some minor brake changes around 89.....other than that almost all the parts have stayed generally the same. As far as i can think.....its just electrical connectors that are different from 90 to present. I dont think a 2005 master cylinder pushes more than a 2000. I have heard of people putting the master cylinders from raptors (I believe) and from the yfz450

yup.....its just a breather to vent any pressure that may be built up in the trans and the clutch pack..... the line goes up and to the square wire holder that is connect to the steering stem support. The reason for getting the tube that high is to prevent water from going down the tube and filling trans/clutch.

funny how some of these people come up with the amount of $$$ they have into their bike......."i have $14000 into this bike"..........somehow with stock cylinders....i doubt it.

man o man....ive never even knew we had imports on these bikes! ill have to check mine soon! all seriousness though....you looked through your intakes....we got that.....could be a few thigns. could be fuel (from floats being jammed and its filled your pipes and backed up into your crankcase)....or some of the motors like to pool oil/gas mix that was either waste or just slop down by the crank.....or your running atf in your tranny and somehow it made its way inside the crankcase....only way to know for sure is to rip it apart and inspect!

banshees are like crack. once you feel that first hit of the pipe....your hooked. haha........but seriously....welcome to the world of having others be jealous and the world of "oh my god this thing is going to make me broke."

HOLY SHIT......i didn't even know a 17 tooth sprocket could fit up front. There's yoru damn problem. go down to a 14 or 15 (tops!) and you'll be spanking the shit out of him... your gearing the damn bike to be a top end bike but expecting it to run super hard down low....doesn't work. just put a 14 on it and SIT FORWARD....especially if your used to the 17 tooth up front.

best bang for the buck is to call one of our site sponsors (ive dealt solely with jeff and he is an awsome guy that knows what to do with a banshee) and talk to them about porting. You send cylinders and money and they send you back your cylinders that have been ported to flow more air and more exhaust. bolt it back on and tune it again and boom.....alot more power...

long radiator hose goes to the coolant bottle....that and that only goes there. The breather tube that comes off the BACK of the motor (near the rear motor mount) runs along the top of the motor and connects to a T fitting that goes to the clutch cover and the other end routes up to the handle bars...

When i got my banshee it had stock pilots and FMF pipes on it....it had a "bog" at low speed.....reality was i had to pump the fuck out of the throttle to get it to get past the bog and get enough fuel into it to get it up on the pipe where it was running mostly on the main jets. I figured out what the problem was......threw in a set of 27.5's and proceded to almost flip the damn bike.....it came to life instantly when i stabbed the throttle......wheels came up and i almost shit. COMPLETELY different bike when i richened up the pilots.

Your right.....apparently alot of people know that.....what some are saying as "clean it up or smooth it out" isn't refering to polishing the intakes or anything.....it is them refering to grinding out the casting flaws and also making the transitions slightly more aerodynamic. As to actually getting in there and actually smoothing the surface most know not to do......but good catch on the wrong play of words...