Jereme6655

Don't get me wrong guys.....I'm not against the hike in the prices...IF THEY ARE GOING TO MAINTANE THE TRAILS! But let's face it.....that ain't gonna happen. Also to the guy in the article with the rzr that buys his permit to drive on the ice.....you don't need to. You don't need a trail permit for it on a lake. Now if your taking it down the road to the launch to get on the ice....then yes....permit required.

Yes they'll fit but you have to replace al the gears at the same time to RZ gears as they are a different gear ratio.

Pm sent!

Sweet....sounds like your happy about it haha.

There's a few of us kickin around in Michigan lol

Count your teeth that are on each sprocket.....stock is 14/41. It depends a lot more on other things than just how hard you want to launch.....like your weight...the ground surface/traction your getting, the length of your swinger, the power your motor outputs, and how good you are at hitting that back brake when the front comes up too much. If your not used to it you would want to slowly change......cause if you went from stock gearing to something closer to say 12/44 your not gonna go too fast at the top speed.....but you're definitely gonna find out how good you are at wheelies....

coups got the backwoods engineering goin on wit his combine haha. j/k coup. in all seriousness id seriously get in there myself and do the work. not only does it make you feel better saving an ass load of money....but you'll learn too that you can sometimes repair thigns trail side to limp home if you know how it works. also where are you at? there may be another member lurking around the corner from your house on here that is definately willing to help out and get you going.

larry is exactly right....these things are super easy to work on....it could be a broken gear or it could also be a bent shift fork....wont know til you check. either way the nice thing is that these things are super easy to work with...and cheap to work with.

i almost want to go and just talk to this guy.....hell i don't even care if its about the damn bike... http://centralmich.craigslist.org/bar/2849209092.html

It would be best to hook a compression gusts up to your bike first.....then you need tell us the compression reading so that we could make a better decision

Ill give you credit....good try. But they'll work way better if you build them like the stockers are made. Basically take the measurement of how long you need the hanger to be....but instead you need 2the pieces of metal that overlap about 1inch with rubber bolted between them. So if you need 4the inches of hanger (not the real size...just using as example) then cut 2 3" pieces and put the rubber between them. Obviously each piece of metal facing opposite of each other. Also try for about 1/2" of rubber between the two pieces. For safe keeping id put 2the bolts holding the metal together.

Haha....I know you did nick....just making sure for his sake he gets it in his head. He said he was new and I didn't want him thinking the choke tube was the actual plunger on the choke assembly.

WARNING.....there is ONE tube that is supposed to connect the carbs together. It is a black tube that runs exactly in line with the choke knob to the other carb. It is THE CHOKE TUBE. These carbs use a single knob that is connected via vacuum tube as oppose to a shaft style.

yes you need a hanger......ALL pipes...even stock pipes have the hanger. I bet you unbolted the T-5's and never took the hangers off of them. also your fitment issue may not be an issue once you get the hanger on there and holding the pipe. my suggestion would be to call jeff at FAST and tell him your dilema. He'll have the parts you need to get those pipes on the bike.......also make sure you have a few exhaust springs... and your wife sounds pretty awsome.....hahahahaha

/\ /\ /\ x2 you really gotta roll the travnission over to get them to want to even try to mesh. and still...even then you will notice a whole lot of 1/2 shifts...where it starts to roll over and just stops and stick between gears.. Don't worry about this....the trans was meant to be shifted at over 1000 rpm......your trying to shift it at like 8 rpm

if i remember correct its something like....every 3 teeth you add in the rear equals one tooth less in the front. that being said count your front sprocket....and then we can make better corrections to your gearing...

just remember that the cases are machined together to specific tolerences from yamaha.......so don't go swapping lower or upper case halves.....if your changing them....change both at the same time. Also doing a swap of cases (as long as there's nothing major wrong like a seized clutch rod) is a simple job. if you have the knowledge/ability to remove your entire engine then you should be able to split your cases and swap everything. It really is simple. just take your time, get a clymers manual for reference and then there are 2 tools required and a tube of yamabond or 1211 to seal the cases. I understand you dont want to do it yourself cause you've never done something like this before.....but honestly.....if you learn now you can see how simple these motors really are and will be WAY less hesitant to fix your bike either at a track or on a riding trip. Way better than sitting on the sidelines for the rest of the trip while your friends are out having a blast without you. im sure there are others around you from the BHQ that could help you in person to swap out the cases. with a guy who knows what he's doing and taking his time to make sure everythings correct and running a leak down on the motor id guess somewhere around 3-4 hours. i know it can be done faster....but the faster anyone works the more risk there is of blowing it up.

carb slides the correct sides? how about doing a leak down and compression test?

and also check your carb jetting.....it could have been run too long on lean jetting and burned itself up that way.

i would think so.....however i guess you could very cautiously almost "paint" exactly over each sticker with something like wd-40 or another type of oil to keep the adhesive on the back of the clear vinyl from sticking...

to set the pickup gap is easy....pull the flywheel cover from the side of the motor.......inside you will see the flywheel and the "pick-up" that is held on by 2 little screws and has 2 wires coming from it. it will be monitoring the flywheel and getting input from the magnets that are on the flywheels to let the ignition system know when to fire the spark. spin the flywheel by hand and you should see the little nubs on the flywheel pass really close to the pickup. The gap between the nubs and the pickup should be set to a very close tolerance....its early and i haven't had my coffee yet.....i believe its .018 that its supposed to be. most people will use a business card between the flywheel and the pickup.

Is your clutch adjusted correctly? How about the eccentric screw....or you could have a bent shift fork. You need ti be more specific...are you trying to shift without the clutch.....are you tying to shift fast....are you trying to shift under load? Is this a new problem or did you buy the bike like this?

Aftermarket pipes like larger pilots.....otherwise they are a bitch ti start. Hence why you say it was hard to do cold starts on it with aftermarket pipes and 25 pilots......try going up a size or two on the pilots.....that may be the problem your having with those 28s also

Im missing how you believe he asked a dumb question? Let's see.....he said he finished putting his motor together.....then he asked what kind of fluid to run in the bottom end. Where do you see him confusing bottom end and transmission. He was asking a legit question about what he should put in his BOTTOM END......cause he's heard many different choices...SUCH AS amsoil or a regular 10w-30 motor oil or auto trans fluid. So im missing how you say HE is dumb?

For break in on the motor my builder recommended running heat cycles on the motor....fire it up and let it warm ip to full temp without letting it idle....just lightly vary the throttle the whole time. Do this for 3 heat cycles....then take it riding....easy on it at first and varying the throttle....after that heat cycle take it out and rape that bike.