Jereme6655

Are you kidding me??? I would have shit my pants if I dumped out my exhaust and a fuckin wrist pin fell out..... The next thing would be something like "how in the HELL did that make it into the exhaust...uh oh" haha Are you sure about it being a bearing? I only ask because it looks to me more like that piston seized into place HARD and you were up on the pipe so hard that the piston skirting couldnt deal with it so it ripped the piston in half. Either way....DAMN GOOD JOB man......never seen a failure like that. We should have another section that deals with nothing but carnage and the reason why they grenaded themselves........either way thanks for the photos man!

Throw up some photos of the carnage....we always like that. Hope you didn't do too much damage to your bike

Looks like a decent job there chip. but I see one problem with it......the gauge you used it too high of a pressure type gauge. I'd be concerned that your not going to be able to comfortably see 6 psi on that gauge. Personally I use a distal tire gauge. Put a little air in and check the amount with the digital reader off of the valve stem. Then dust the amount and le the test begin.

Also check your sync on your carbs.....I had a situation like that and I grabbed my sync tool after I rebuilt the carbs and one of the carbs needed the idle turned up higher to equal the other one. Check your carb sync, swap wires (but I'm sure it's a fuel problem) and keep us updated

You can run your stock set of cases.....however you will have to get your cases trenches to fit the crank.

Put the choke tube back in place between the carbs...

STOP....the leak down test is to be done at 6psi!!! NOT 10! You don't want to go over 6psi for risk of pushing seals out of their locations.

look under your gas tank......the little black box on the left side still plugged in? if it is that is the "brain" of the TORS system......unplug it and try it again.

had this same problem with my bike when i first brought it home when i bought it. i had (i think) a 240 main jet and stock pilots in it....... PULL THE PILOTS OUT AND PUT IN 27.5's........then tell me how it runs...haha. oh yea....watch out cause your probably not going to expect it.....i know i almost put it up on its ass because i doubted it was going to help......damn i was wrong.

dont go fucking with the adjustment just yet......unless you adjusted it out of whack then it should still be okay.......just drain the yamalube out of it and put yourself either some belray gear saver70w or some type F atf in it

dont forget that the slingshot will fit under the stock clutch cover......no need for a $300 cover

check for your woodruf key.....if you didn't put your flywheel bolt on tight enough then you could have a sheared key. check it all out....put some locktite on the shaft and torq that flywheel nut down to at least the torq specs. ohh.....an check out your trigger pickup.....if your flywheel came off or shifted.....there's a good chance it smacked her pretty good. check to see if its alright and then make sure you set the gap again.

no jumping wires at all. they just stay disconnected.....just remember to make sure you disconnect the little black brain box that is under the gas tank on the left side of the bike. if you do the eliminator kit....most will come with carb caps to replace the big ass bulky tors units that are ontop of your carbs. but even then the wiring stays just dangling unless you cut it out from the harness

ummmm......yes...its your clutch. its slipping. The reason i say that is because he banshee does not use yamalube 2stroke oil in the transmission.....it uses oil or gear oil or type F atf fluid with NO friction modifiers. Yamalube is a stroke engine oil that is to be mixed with gasoline and put in your fuel tank.

check that you dont have an air leak....check that your carb slides are in correctly (half moon facing air box side) make sure you have enough fuel in the tank...

nothing wrong with the fattys.....i really like them in the trails...

Trinity is also big name in atv performance......doesn't mean they're good... but i think alot of it has to do with the performance for the price issue......alot of $$$ for just barely a litte power...

stock carbs are good for the 70-80 hp range. The rebuild kits to totally rebuild them are like $14 through FAST. how can you go wrong with that.....

shit no it doesn't sound like a pilot.....and HELL yes it sounds like you have an air leak. if the bike is starting to "free rev" and wont idle and is fighting starting then you have all the warning signs of an air leak. Quit starting that thing or your going to melt a hole through your new pistons. Do a leakdown and find that leak!!!

cause vitos pistons aren't the greatest pistons in the world... they're not bad and many have gotten away with some good riding from them......but others have had horror stories from hell with them

you do not want to adjust your idle by your throttle cable......too much tightening and you make a turn and it'll go wide open on you. if you have the TORS still on your bike then you need to turn the knobs on top of the box looking things that are on your carb caps. if you have the TORS removed then there shoul be a large idle screw on the side of each carb. if the screws are NOT there but the TORS have been removed then you need to install idle screws to get the bike to idle correctly.

haha....yea i know you were saying prolites and i knew the 795 and 513 series pistons sandrider.....i was giving him a hard time for asking about hot rods after you and i had both give reasons of why to stay with por-lites....

+4 is about the longest your going to want to trail ride with.

what about Wiseco Pro-lites.... seriously though.....wiseco makes one of the best pistons out there.....i think ive only heard of 1 story where someone said their wiseco piston came apart. Other than that there seems to be someone once a week on there that says they're piston shattered (non-wiseco) and now they need an entire top end rebuild.....on a recent rebuild. if your trying to pinch pennies thent he banshee is not for you....its not the kind of bike that is going to react nicely to skimping. however in these times i understand if your worried about spending too much......which is why you should look into our SITE SPONSORS as they can get you the wiseco kits you need for cheaper than you'll find.

hold up.....the stock carbs are pretty decent believe it or not. There isnt a ROD that connects the choke as there would be on most carbs. these carbs are the odd ball style......the right carb uses vacuum pressure from the left carb to activate the choke on the right carb. look between the carb....if you see a 3inch black tube there then its in place.......if you dont see the little black tube then find yourself about 3inches that will fit between the 2 nipples on the carb sides and kick that shit over.