sootman73

Thanks for the quick replies guys, appreciate it.

Okay thanks. I'll pull it apart and look at things. three seasons on a clutch in heavy trail riding with a strong motor can't complain i guess. Also the fluid doesn't look the best either, whats te best way to flush it all out to get good clean fluid in there? Do they make a re-usable clutch cover gasket btw?

So after my trip to Hatfield Mccoy this spring I've started having clutch problems. This clutch has about 3 seasons of riding on it and have never had a problem until now. Problem is the two symptoms below. Clutch will not engage---You pull the clutch lever, shift into 1st, let the clutch out and the bike just sits there Slips when you're really getting on the throttle I have a feeling that the clutch slipping is related to the first symptom because as it ride it hard it will all of a sudden engage without slip if i let the clutch lever snap loose. (pull clutch and let it snap free from my hand). I did make sure that the actuator arm is releasing all the way with the clutch cable (in case cable was holding it) but it seems to move freely with the clutch lever. What do i look at next?

Looking to sell my banshee because i never have time to ride anymore. I have put quite a bit of work into this quad motor wise, includes bored out cylinders with Wiseco pistons, fast racing woods port/polish, milled head to up compression, timing plate and uni foam air filter. Also has a trail tech computer that gives water temp, rpm, and speed. I've clocked 83mph on it with stock gearing. All mill work done by Fast racing and I assembled the motor with all new gaskets and copper spray. Jetting is accurate with stock carbs. No tors system and has a fast racing clutch with the modded shift star for easier/faster shifting. All paired with a set of fmf fatty pipes for great low end torque with very strong top end. Rear tires do not come with it but have a set of decent dunlops on stock wheels that will. Here are a few pics and can send more. Located in NW ohio but don't have a problem shipping and getting paid through Paypal as long as its legit. (almost got scammed before this way) Asking $2800 OBO

It was an overheat likely caused by poor jetting and it got out of hand enough to blow the headgasket. Its all back together now, I just need to get the jetting on so i don't have a heat issue again.

After looking around at pilot sizes it does seem a bit lean, though it starts and idles perfect at any temp. should i grab 27.5 and 30? How can you tell if they are lean during tuning?

Finally got around to this, I hate July at work. I got a new gasket, threw it back together, upped my main jets two sizes (see below) and then did a plug chop after a 6gear wind out Main Jet: 320 Pilot Jet: 25 Needle: 3 position Do i need to richen up a little bit yet? def doesn't get on pipe as easy as before though Let me know what you guys think

Thanks guys, I'll chop the plugs tonight and post it up. I'll also grab my jet sizes and carb settings while i'm at it.

I'm leaning more towards old radiator, worn out cap, and just not enough cooling for the power the build is making now. Does it look lean to you guys? granted the plugs are dirty after a long weekend of riding. I thought i would need a lot of tuning with the new build but once carbs were synced i only jetted up one side and it revved perfect.

i knew which cylinder it was while riding because it was pushing coolant into the cylinder when it shut off. Here are some pics of the gasket, its easy to see where it blew. it was jetted rich as well and that's probably why there is zero damage to the cylinder walls. (crosshatching still present everywhere)

Well thats what i'm not sure. I suspect the head gasket was blown and caused the rapid overheating. The water pump is not broken and turns with the crank. it spit coolant out a couple of times hours before i hit the high temps. It was only at 190-200 degrees when it did. Though this thing has always spit coolant no matter which rebuild. I am going to take care of the heat problems as i put it together.

I've done a couple searches on here but I haven't found an answer to my question. I know my head gasket is blown but I'm curious as to what causes this to happen? I had Jeff at FAST do a port, bore, got a milled head from him, and added a timing plate set @4 degrees BTDC. Is it usually over heating that causes this? Running down the road at home after break in period it would warm up pretty quick but only to 180's. A memorial day weekend at badlands and I had temps that shot to the 240's a couple of times and peaked at 249 once. It went up so fast that i didnt even notice it. Anything I need to worry about putting a new gasket in and buttoning it back up? (I was gonna check the head for flatness and square first.)

They are only charging me $45 to mill my head. It doesn't need to be done as it isn't damaged i just figured i wanted to do something while i have it all apart.

I searched numerous times for a thread on this but i mostly get coolhead vs stock. (i don't have the money to buy a coolhead) I am having Jeff @ FAST do a Woods port for me soon and i wanted to know if milling the head would be worth the money? I want to run pump gas but would like to bump the compression up a bit. What compression is safe for premium (91-93) gas? What is a safe amount to mill to not hurt squish? Thanks guys

Wow finally got my shift mods installed and took it for a test drive! holy shit this thing is fun to ride again! and neutral clicks in so easy that on the stand i don't even have to pull the clutch in! Thanks guys for your help and damn i wish i woulda done this a long time ago!