AKheathen

if there is up-dn play, you will want an e-manual, or clymers, and yamabond, or EQUIVALENT. pull out on the shaft before checking that play, though.... and the bearing is held in by circlips, as with the other trans bearings. the only way to replace them is to split the cases...

honestly, just look for any chatter wear that may have wore the key thinner. if you don't see any real wear, leave it alone. you will find, if you ever do one with a loose key, that it is a blessing. all the key is there for is initial alignment, and it will rock in the groove, which can be a pill on install. once you properly seat the flywheel, the key does absolutely nothing, and it never should do anything but instal line-up. the most stubborn key will knock right out with a chisel/screw-driver and a hammer no problem. btw- the stock key is the hardest, most durable i have found.

nice old school gold series torquers. i have the high-rev alternates to those, and they pull pretty good with toomy silencers...

just to add- the stock flywheel and stock stator frame will only support 105watts. i have been through every scenario, and the simple fact is that is the max "bl" of the stock magnetic field. i would expect it to rectify to 90-95 continuous at high rpm, which should maintain the battery and lights, if you are ridding, not just idling it the whole time, lol.

x2, i wouldn't say the wire is cheap, in fact it looks much like the wire i use, and i pay out the ass for it. however, it does not look like they put enough wraps on it, might be just enough for 28 (stock is 29) but it looks like it may be 26, 24, or could be 28, just because it is hard to tell from the pic. i forget the footage off-hand, but the only possible way to get more than 105 watts from a stock stator is by winding the ignition to 4 poles, and winding the lighting to 8 poles. also, stock size lighting side wire is more than enough to get it done.

first thing to do is pull the plugs and see what they have to say. may be as simple as a fouled plug. could be a bad plug cap. when the coil goes, it is generally both sides that go bad, not just one. the coil has one single secondary winding, and is supposed to be connected to ground in the middle of that winding, but most coils will never read that connection brand new, yet work just fine, even with one plug disconnected. if new plugs are mis-firing, test for spark and fuel. if the spark is not good brite blue on the one, then uncrew the cap and ohm it. trim 1/4" off the end of that wire and ohm the coil from there.caps can be 5ohm, or 5kohm. if they are 5ohm, or less, you should be using resistor plugs. now, here is the part you may not like: you mention new topend, and stator. about the atator- i would be pulling the cover and checking the flywheel gap on both sides. you do this, both to ensure it is gapped correctly (you should be able to just slide the flap of a spark-plug box in between the node and pickup) and that the flywheel is round and on the crank square. you should probably describe in detail how you replaced the stator. the correct puller must be used on the flywheel, and never stick anything through the holes to hold it in place. loctite on the nut highly recomended. what brand stator? why did the top-end get done? was there piston damage? pitting/melting? this could be caused by a lean condition, which could be in the carb, or airleak from the intake/reeds, and may still exist.

how about lotsa meat to work with. i, personally would like to see a "grizzly bear" torqey woods cylinder, that can be re-ported for anything from woods to dune. really, i have been concidering chopping a serval down for lower timings. honestly, though. i do not condone reverse-engineering good cylinders, rather, go through the same process and start more from experieince of knowing the cylinders. one big thing i want to see is electric pv's. i can run those from the dyna.

well, really, the best thing to do is to send it out, if you are just trying to do it and save money. seems simple, right? hog and get more flow? no. that doesn't really help on many 4stroke back-yard ports. with any port job, it is usually proper flow shaping that will give you more useable power. where it gets even more tricky on the banshee cyls is that they are tiny, and 1 degree makes a fair amount of difference, and 1 degree on these cylinders is a very small amount of material. really, if you want to put in the time and learning, and can live with the possibility of tossing a top-end in the trash (bottom end possibly, too) then, by all means, go for it. but, i am serious about how much a difference researching will provide. the basics of it, and more info than you can think of is already posted up on this site, though you may have to sift through the past couple years to find much of it. 3 important books are posted up in "useful links" thread in the tech. info section. one real nice tool to have, and necessary to do the transfers, would be a 90, or 100degree 1/8" porting tool. i searched for many months to find one under $300, and finally bought one off someone else for the $100 that i was more than happy to pay. otherwise, it would be about the same price to have it ported by a shop. a few things you will learn, is that more duration increases rpm and blow-down affects how peaky, or broad the power will be. must have a nice chamfer on all the ports, as ring snag is a big deal. it is good to stay @ 66% or less width of the cylinder bore on the exhaust port, etc. and, on top of that, a great deal of nice, predictable power comes from experience, and trade tricks/secrets, which mostly come from such experience. good luck.

not to mention, if you port for stock stroke, then go 4mill, you are not really going to be able to re-port trail on the 4mill. it will be an aggresssive dune, or higher rpm port you would be stuck with. i would go 4mill first. torque across the board, then port fot the 4mill. you can even budget it, and start with the kit, and use the spacer plate, then save up and buy a head/domes, so you can ditch the spacedr plate, and then finally port it. in the end, it is about 1200 to do a proper 4mill.

i like having less spring pressure on the lockup vs popeye forearm.

if you do not have the impact to rattle it off, or it is too weak, you can put it in 6th, and have someone hold the rear brake. you can barely see some of the writing on the inside of the basket in your pic. make sure there is no burrs where the fingers ride. the hub looks a bit worn for my tases, but it would be fine, maybe a little drag with the clutch released

got the filter setup "collecting dust" (not literally) i wanna say like $10 & shipping, so cal it $20?

stupid question, but, did you remove the nuts from the back-side? should be able to soak it in kr oil, drill the center out, smack the sides of the bung/collar with a 3#+ hammer, and then drill the center out. if the edge of the threads that broke are not bent out bad, it would be easier screwing it inwards, rather than out. use a 4-point strait extractor, rather than a tapered spiral. you want it to grab without continuously expanding. as for welding heat, it may work while it is hot, but you could ice the new welded bolt to shrink it, while leaving the bung hot.

most meters, even the flukes, are going to read in the 0.00 range at low loads. typically, most meters will zero out at .02-.05oms, and i have seen some as high as .2, which is rediculous, and sometimes due to a low battery. either way, this is your "zero" of the meter and must be subtracted from any reading. the wires in the stator should ohm to 0.00. there is not enough resistence in them to be picked up in such a short run. the mag wire of the stator windings is what you are reading. any resistance ouside of that is a problem. there is a short somewhere, and it needs to be found. i would likely say it's in the corrosion, or the insulation has been etched from the clr. it also could be in the pig-tail harness, and it was chafed through, and any build-up etc that was preventing contact was washed away. "OL" means out of limit, which is either extremely high, beyond mega-ohms, or open circuit. i do have to say, that the meter must be reading in the 0.00 range to test the lighting side (black & yellow) and 00.0 for the ingnition windings (red & green) and the pickup should be close to 100.

sounds good to me, unless it used to be much higer, but, isn't this a fresh rebuild? yah i wouldn't expect it much higher yet

the factory wire gauge is more then sufficient, it takes more windings, and skill. to get true 110w+ off the pipe, you need a new flywheel, or 8 poles wound or thicker poles. just remember, when you go larger on your sataor, the stock regulator only handles about 100watts long-term, so it may fail in time, and winding stators is a real pita, and takes time/tooling know-how to do.

why do you need to raise the exhaust? is the power not revving enough? honestly, you go more on transfer vs exhaust, not intake windows. it's a big deal about having those timing correct. and, to do that, the proper tool runs right at $300+, not including the bits.

no, no stock deflectors. the new reeds should have come with clamps, just use those, and some loctite. do not over-tighten the screws, or it will deform the clamps and not seal right, ot crack the reeds

wow, if you bought that thinking you could fix it easy, and then asking us what, you should probably have it built for you, and drop the motor in. i can tell you that the pistons are fucked, the dome on that side, at least is 99% likely fubar, the crank has had stuff run through it, maybe still there and needs cleaned out, and the cylinders may be damaged beyond what a bore can fix, bu maybe not. first thing i would be looking at (or having looked at) is the cylinders. they will tell you so much of what you need to know

bad ju-ju.!!! here is what you do- now pay attention, you are going to need the following: first, contact cleaner some sand-paper (scotch-brite) dielectric terminal grease, aka "truckilte grease" a nice, heafty newspaper, with a good amount of mass to it a compressed air source. remove the stator completely, and i hope you are using the proper tool tp press the flywheel off, not a jaw, or something. spray it down with the contact cleaner/lecta-motive, and let it soak for a minute.. take the news-paper and roll it to a nice, tight roll. smack yourself in the head repeatedly for playing luck-checmist on you banshee. feel free to proceed/alternate your testicles in the random smacking. after a few rounds of justification, spray more cleaner on the sttor, etc to flush off the corrosion and such. now, blow the satator dry and make sure it is clean. you will likely need to sand the build-up from the contacts, and such, so take the liberty to smack yourself with the roll once again, and begin sanding them, once your smackinng has been satisfied, and then some. finally, take your ohm readings at the plugs. just remember 3 things- the black (ground) wire is onlly connected to the cable retainer at the back of the stator, so it will not read if it is not screwed down, second- red/green does need to be pretty close in range for afermarket, and within range for staock stators, or it will not run good, or at all., and last, don't forget to beat yourself repeately, randomly, and at my will over the next 24hrs. if the short is gone, then re-assemble, and use the dielectric on the connectors, seals, and exposed solder/wire

really?......?.......?.... yah, rounded, is fine..... the clip gets worn out. 90% of the time, that is what it is every time you can pull the worn-down clip and try to make a new one, a micro-torch is essential to get it bent reliably. the clip is located under the rubber boot, and resembles a door window crank handle clip in your car. really, though, if you don't find a brand new choke assy in the $8-14 range, you are doing wrong.

gee, if there was only some sort of section in this forum that adressed specifically jetting a banshee, that would be awesome, 'eh? anyways, altitude and temp in ferinheight will be a great help, also if you happen to be running other than premium unleaded pump gas. i would have to say, on average, your setup will be pretty close with 27.5, and 280. if there is a pilot jet installed under a 70, or so, it should start with the choke and 1-3 kicks. otherwise, there is another problem. make sure the choke carb has the jet in the bowl, and not on the right carb. make sure there is no airleaks on the engine side of the carbs. make sure the float needle/seats do not leak.

oh, and, i am going to need some full-size pics of those avatars, thatnk you verry much!

you need to know 2 things for sure- 1: rod length...... most 4mill hr cranks are long rod, so you will probably need that, but be 100% before ordering. (+5mm) 2: bore size...... don't assume that 2 seasons means you need "a little overbore" definately check, or have it checked. in 2 seasons, you may need more than .5mm, and you may need absolutely no up-sizing. going too tight is going to be a big fat seize situation, and too loose will lead to a blow-up of total destruction... wasm isn't really that bad, and they have some nice "ported" pistons....

yes, it's always good to clean up casting flaws, but do some research first, and make sure not to hash up the port timings and don't remove the transfer knife-hook