AKheathen

psh, with just the threads below the pin hole holding good, you could even ride it that way. might be a little tricky to not cross-thread the nut going on, though.

you would be supprised how over-looked a thread file is... worst case, you could knock the damaged threads off and use what's left, too...

yes, it's real common on sno-go, or at least used to be. had the case and pipe on my ski-doo as full as you can get it. same thing, and got lucky not hydro-locking. stock carbs should over-flow, though, before spilling into the engine. water in the pipes is not un-heard-of. pull the plugs and have someone kick it fast repeatedly. if fuel is in there, it should be shooting out in 3 kicks. also, how about the plug caps, and engine/frame grounds?

go get ahold of a thread file. start on the good threads and work out, then chase with a die/chaser.

no pics of your pp and stuff?

sorry, but you obviously seem to be the one here with enough time to actually go and do the proper research, yet rather spend it "teaching" what you are not too versed/seasoned on. i have spent more days than i dare to think of not only researching, testing, and applying, but discussing such knowledge and hundreds of long write-ups, and inserts all over the site. it is apparent that you will not look around and find out for yourself. fact of the matter, is that i just gave up on you. i see where this is going, and as much effort as you put into "being right" about a simple term correction points to the fact that it will be nothing but a huge time consuming battle. if you really want to know, do a damn search. i spend 80hr/week putting my experience and knowledge to work for a living, and then spend the rest on the family, electronics repair, and projects whenever i can fit. and, i'm stil finding some time to come and help people as much as i can. in sort, not really much time for your bs. i just want to point things out for others at this time. btw, if you really tried to break the subject down to make it easier, it would be a single post with much lighter reading. and, yes, it is easy for someone to make that mistake, if they incorrectly remembered hearing both detonation and pre-ignition form someone who at least has a workable knowledge as a mechanic, etc. simple NOOB mistake. i'll get back with a good insert on the matter when i find the time on r&r. i'm not gonna half-ass a quickie. btw, cam, you got my curiosity..... i've also came up with some modified designs based on combustion heat patterns. i don't have a dyno, but the results are real.

you should read his other threads. you will see how off he is in general.

that almost looks like wash-out on the plugs. first off, you need to be pulling like 12 second wot loaded run... and yes, you jet by feel/sound, but if you don't already know how, then doing the plug chops are a way to teach you and confirm that you are not just guessing....

is that like multiple huggs for each jugg? some sort of foreplay thing?

do you have marks on the cover? take a pic of your pp, and all the parts laid out in order of install. also, where the adjuster is normally....... i'm thinking you may be missing a washer/thrust plate. that would be something that could cause it to over-extend the pp.

just remember, all of your jetting/carb adjustments should be done to a HOT engine. if you have ohmed and checked everything, as said, do it hot. the coil will read different hot, but he stator should be close, and all other components pretty much unchanged. it may, or may not be a problem if yyou find this, but, if you still can't find it, inspect the stator windings for blackening on the finer wires. it is common to see them a little brown, since the stator can actually suply more than you need in like new condition, but they do cook. as for the rad, well, that's unrelaed personal preference. overheating in the woods is real common, but that is due to no air flow. alarger radiator just makes it take longer both heatingand cooling.

yah, if your jetting doesn't effect it, it has to be in ignition. might still be rich somewhere, but i would go over it. check the plug caps, check the pickup gap, and ohm out the stator and coil. make sure there is no moisture/rust in the stator and connections. oh, yah, and don't forgt about spark plugs....

i had brandon do a couple of 4mills for me. great deal and great work. rebuilding a crank, or buying a new crank are about in the same ball-park, moneywise, unless yours is completely trashed, but having it built by a guy like brandon, you know it's done right. mass production cranks, you know there are always going to be a few bad units, and you might not find out for a year or so.

wow, those are interesting. actually, the rotax motor is a 90 degree crank with one single big rotary valve, about 8-10" section, iirc, that drops all the way down about as low as the crank bearings. had huge plans to mod my 583 to a forced induction setup, before i got a banshee. the only way i can see the valve fitting on a banshee case is either reversed cyl, or with the cyls laying flat and the valve up. anyone got any links to some old leakenstien setups?

i would still not back-load anything real on it (engine braking) personally. with any gear that has the 45* back-cut dogs, you are actually putting more force on the fork than on the trans gears themselfs. this is why non-duneables are no back-lading. i was under the assumption that all full-duneable trans have no back-cut dogs, unlike shown in that thread. the back-cutting has 2 efffects: it pushes the gear out of engaugment when back-loaded (by the next gear taking over) and reduces the degrees that it is possible to have the dogs out of allignment to engauge, by half the width of the ramp. on a strait-dog full-duneable, you can back-load all day long to your hearts content, even heavy engine breaking, you just have to ba "soft" about it, as the dogs that are cut out give the gears 3-4x the distance to travel between load direction, so abrupt load direction change will make it slap real hard on the other side of the dogs. so basically, make sure you do have strait dogs, and just try to limit slaming into a back-load, which could be as simple as slipping the clutch when you downshift, and not sit there repeatedly blipping the throttle at high rpm's and letting off enough for hard engine braking between. i know i, and many do that out of boredom, and not the same as pulsing the throttle up a hill, or power-slide, which is perfectly fine to do.

i've been running the bear claw 22's for several years. they are a tad heavy, but i don't really have any problem with that. they bite good in just about everything but loose gravel. i haven't put my swinger skid back on. it just collects dust. only thing i really worry about smacking the sproket and rotor is big ass rocks. itherwise, you loose ground clearance with the skid.

there is a wanted section in the classifieds.....

....have you changed the plugs yet? after that, make sure you don't have an intake leak, and check the flywheel pickup gaps. if it started after installing the reeds, i would have to say it's likely airleak, or carb problem. bad exhaust packing could cause a poping, but usually will still run okay. also, bad float in the carb could flood it/load it up. almost sounds like fuel in the exhaust.

either his engine ran like crap with ahuge squish and no real compression, or he probably had the spacer plate. judging by the thread spacing on the head studs, you have a 2mm height problem, which would be taken up by the spacer plate and extra gasket. the topend was complete? head/jugs/pistons? or, as mentioned, you may be hitting the head gasket if the head that came with it was relieved for stroke. like i said before, if it was short rod setup on longrod crank, the rings should be popping up.

*lowe and behold. pull the flywheel first and make sure the crank moves that much

lol. you need to tell us the specifics of the motor. whoever built it should be able to help you there.

well, usually pipes are the first thing to do. the stock pipes are what really choke it back in stock form. look for pipes that suite your ridding style/terrain. you must absolutely re-jet for any motor or flow mods. if you plan on building the motor up, make sure the pipes can still hang with as much motor as you build. for instance, t6 pipes are pretty darn good, argueably the most efficient power-adders for a bone stock engine. however, that is because that is what they are built for, and anything more than a stock engine will make the pipes just hold the motor back. do a bunch of research on the site and ask questions as they come up to get in the right direction.

yah, that is what i'm getting at.... or do you mean that it is something that shouldn't have been done? i've done it many times with no problem, but, like i said, no hammering the clam in. that also can crack a nose-cone from the webbing.

how bad is it? mmight actually need a new one if it's pretty ground out. pics help

how so? that's where the foce is placed to initially separate away from the webbing. this is why i do not hammer the clam-shell in on these, like you would in other aplications, where you actually can get on the inner race. i'll try to dig one out tonight, if i can find the time.