AKheathen

you don't use silicone, and you need a gasket, or o-rings, if made for it. call the guy you got it from and ask what he ran, to see how it was intended, first.

there should be a hiss, free-spinning it, but if there's noise that wasn't there new, you might have chipped or dinged the races. if you don't trust it, don't use it

x2. also, you want to rotate the engine 180* and check the gap again. really, find out why the gap went. they don't just get a hard-on, or get scared of the flywheel. flywheel could be loose

hehe, sure..... guess i could've gone 1 quote per post, huh?

this certainly is not the case of what is happening here. you are not a maurder, or a victim. you started the shit, and escelated it yourself.

well, that is simply not true. as has been pointed out that most know about the few differnt companies/builders and people thst will re-chamber your stock head, or even cut it to fit genaric domes. this kind of speculation and brash claims are where you start to go wrong. it is never fair in any way to make the customers pay for you to learn and set up your "special" jiggs and such. especially if they pay for you to learn. only case where it is okay for you to charge such "new tooling" setup is a one time special custom work. it is up to you to eat the time to learn and make your jigs and tooling. just bad business. just a side note- for less than your basic spin-cutting, you can send your head in to be cnc machined to a special shape not posible on a lathe. truf covered already is not the same thing, really, and shit talking a good builder just makes your breath stink. we all know what you meant by "photoshopping" you talked shit, admit it. use fluid like you should, and when you improve your setup to cut better, it won't gaul up like that no, you weren't. it's not about "some dude in his garage". lots of great work comes from hobbiests, and such. it's your pretentious shit-talking attitude coming right out of the gate. you are not better than all us dummies on this site. hey, what's wrong with chevy? i likes my chevy's, lol. check his other threads..... this horse is a boat anchor on land trying to drag to water for a drink, but may be soon coming allong... i hope.

if you have the wrong pistons, the rings would pop out of the top, iirc.

you should have domes cut for either, just for better match, but you don't have to. in real-world, different motors are going to re-act differently, but, aside from the dwell time, the blow-down and some other timings and time-area will be effected a little. this should translate into a slight shift in the power being a little more or less peaky, but i don't think it will really make the motor "not run right" to a huge extent. ideal dome design might be a little different, since the small change in dwell time will effect squish velocity some. just remember, all these effects could add up, but not going to really turd a motor out. it should still scream either way.

this is true. just wire in a second reg/rec to the outputs. still need to float the shared ground, just the same as a single output stator.

in wrong section. reporting to be moved

"higher exhaust pressure" does not have to come from the wave pulse. it simply means that the pressure in the exhaust is high. just about any engine can see 20-50psi exhaust pressure naturally, at some ppoint/level of operation. just like you've heard the saying that you loose bottom end stuffing/tq/drivablity/whatever running strait dumps on a v8. yes, you can compare all 2-strokes. they all are working on the same principals. forced induction IS taking place and simotaneous/asyncronis with the squish-bang cycles. a "jimmy" would be like replacing the crank chamber and related with a turbo, or super charger. wormholes/boost ports/boysesn ports, or whatever you want to call them work for a few reasons. first, you have to remember the most obvious point is that THERE ARE FREAKIN REEDS! i could go into mapping the effects of those ports, but i'll keep it simple and tell you that it basically ballances the pressure of the reed chamber, so it can work with the crank chamber together more effectively, mostly at higher rpm's. a great deal of 2-stroke understanding comes from a good grasp of the fluid dynamics, and understanding the timing of waves/pressures, and such, and experience in working with effecting this (i.e. experienced porting) for the upm-teenth time, your "basic explanation" is wrong, and flawed, to say the least. i wish you would accept that and move foreward. i am not going to say that my shit don't stink either. in fact, years back, i did not have a correct understanding of the 2-stroke slide carb, having a vast amount of experience only in automotive crbeuration and fuel injection. once pointed out, i quickly apologised and moved on to studying and learning every thing i can about the matter. i'm not really one to toot my own horn much, but many can attest to my exceptional knowledge and experience in the stock, and other mikuni round slide carbs, and stock jetting. this has a huge part to do with the mentioned mistake. i did not defend to the death what i said, rather learned from it. so, no, i am not picking an easy target, as this is in no way easy, and yes, i know what it's like to be in your shoes... oh, and i think the therm you are looking for is having a "hard-on" for you, or something to that effect. "a chip on his shoulder" is a better description for the way you have been. fyi- quoting typos are not going to have much bearing on me, or my posts. i correct what i can see, but still don't look at the screen while typing, and can't seem to get spell-check to work on this site anymore. i'll be leaving firefox beta feed-back on that matter, if it helps you feel better.

did you slack the cable off far enough to allow the free-movement during adjustment?

wel, i always suggest wildcard as a builder, and brandon is who i went through for my cranks, but there are many options.

clam-shell splitter/puller? anyways, clean and oil the bearing and inspect wear, etc. could be possible, you simply got a little dirt in there. if you feel like saving $40, then look for it to stick to a ball, or in between

you will hate that cam. either cam you get will really need a programmer to be even worth installing, but the part number cam you are after is #54-412-11. it barely needs a little more idle, like 550-600, drill out the throttle body just a small amount (air hole in it, as you will see) but it makes omg power from 1200 to over 6k. if you buy a jet, if you are involved, or something else tuned for the cam/a cam if you might get a little lost. thst cam you posted is pretty radical for a dd. if you were racing track, yah, you could use it with the stock tqc., but that doesn'tmean that it will even hold an idle under 900-1k and stall even at those settings. forget economy, might as well slap an over-sized carb on there and garden-hoe fuel down it's gullet and out the exhaust. also, doing a manual swap, you need either the jet/tunercat equivelant setup or the complete electrical that came with the manual trans.

454, is, respectfully, all tq. what is useable is a huge part low-end, anyways. a 327 is a whole bunch of rev and hp, but is going to fall short on the low-end tq by far. just something to chew on. i wouldn't hesitstate to swap to a beefier setup, unless it is a concrete mudder

pioneer went 10x downhill since the buy-out, yet you still cannot go real wrong with it. other brands, it depends. truth. anyways, a double din, or din and a half touchscreen, as mentioned, will look factory most times. this is a great advantage, since, nobody looking to steal a sterio, who knows the slightest bit, knows that factory heads are useless to steal. a second advantage, is if you have a column shifter, you don't have to worry about hitting it while opening/open (this is actually a bigger problem than you ay think) a 3rd benefit, is 90% of flip-out units are flimsy, and do not do well to any rough driving.

outboard bearing replacement is cakework. need to be concerned with the center bearings and rod clearances, as that is where crank building comes in, and a stock stroke crank is only worth the rebuild if you are a pro at it already, or need to build what is not already offered. ths is because the pricing is about the same, or more, and you only get 2 rebuilds out of a crank before the parts are too streesed to make it. iirc, ck121 should be the markings on a stock rod. is ther a marking on the crank webbing, like hr204, and is there red on the center seal (looks like a spacer between the seal) or 2-orings? that is the sure sign of a hr crank

i have a rule of thumb for europe: 1-2 jet sizes (usually 1) less than the us, due to humidity difference, but still. you got her running, now turn the cable down. FYI, EVERYBODY, IT IS A HALF TORS REMOVAL, AND HE IS BUYING THE SCREWS TO GET IT RIGHT. just trying to get close enough now. once you have the idle down low enough, you can go back to tuning the airscrews. you turn them one way, and give it 20-30 seconds to level out. if the idle goes up, you are going the right direction. if the idle gets too high, turn it down some. that simple. keep at it, untill you find a good ballance. once you get close, it will be less than 1/8 turn increments. remember that this adjustment should be to a hot engine, and the idle a little higher than a low struggle idle, firing nice. this may be impossible to keep on your setup, so a little high is okay. generally 1k-1500 is a heathy idle. my experience says that 1/8-1/4 additional turns in will be the sweet-spot that has no hesitation or sputter (sweet-spot), but you are supposed to play with it. remember what you are hearing, as you should be able to pick up on lean and rich sounds/feel if you own a 2-stroke. look-up and take on a "plug chop" it is essential, and learn from it as well. i have only chopped once, and that was to doubble check, as io suggest the minimum, but was able to use my magnifiers to read without chopping, and any chops are "going through the motion, as i pick up on mixture and/or detonation by feel. one day you can develope the feel, too, but you must know what you are feeling is correct.

holy crap, if it is really 4-6c, i think that is like under 40f, and 270, is going to be lean. whenever i see pro-circuits, even though they are my favorite pipes, i must impress that you need to do a proper plug chop. in y personal experience, and tons on this site, pro-circuit pipes either go one way or the other. you should be at either 280/90, or at 320/30. anyways, there is 2 reasons that are likely for your revving. first, is an airleak. use startig fluid, or carb cleaner around the carbs and intake/cyl and listen for engine change. next, which is common, is that you are off on the mixture, and the idle is set high to compensate. if this is the case, then you will see after warming it up, and adjusting the fuel screws for the highest idle, and turning the idle back down as you do this. once you heve the highest idle, and idle turned down, turn the airscrews in 1/8 turn and it should be pretty much set, or real close.

forst thing, cheack that the bearing did not take the seal out. normally, a worn seal will seap the oil out, not pour it out. it is possible that a change in type of oil some hours back can make a seal crack, but it is just possible, not probable. slack the chain and pry on the sprocket. the bearing there is what would take it out. if that is what you find, also check the swing-arm pivot bearings, and sprocket hub, so it doesn't happen again, if the bearing is fine, keep it full of oil and order parts, so you can ride now and change beafore the next ride

yah, 21cc should not be a problem. you are stock stroke, right? at 370, you should be getting away with 90oct, or less. are you sure on the timing? don't have a timing key, and plate? local fuel screwing you? i actually had that happen to me this summer. supposed to be 90, but my tahoe kicked into low octane, and had to cut my ridding off when it felt real lean. pissed, especially, since i fueld a few miles from the cheveron main supply tanks that feed the state. i blame it on the fact that nobody wanted to pay the extra 20cents, given the prices, even though it makes the fuel actually cheaper per mile in over 90% of vehicles. no gasket on a cool-head. what are your average readings? get some plexi and grease-seal it to the head with a hole in th center. put a plug in and measure the olume. if that is what you are doing, then your domes should be at 21cc. shit, you should be getting away with 20cc on 93. also, re-check for air-leak sources. plugged jet, cracked carb boot/intake, etc...... 370 is quite off-the-chart.

used to have a box of them i cut to spec....i think 10mm over stock, might be 6. i'll look around if nobody posts

oh dear, god.... are you "rangerdanger" on ca.com?

i do it by hand, snug with blue loctite. once you've felt that 7 ft-lbs enough, you know what is close enough