AKheathen

put it in a machine to make a cool ash tray, and go shop for a coolhead, lol seriously, the thing was probably "milled" on a belt sander, making it taper to one side, and ther is 2 different size chambers. if you really want to salvage it, you really do need a machine shop to cut the chambers after resurfacing it. the squish band should not be the same angle as the piston, so that will not work. you will need to know squish clearance before cutting, and you might actually not have enough material left to recut. a few sponsors offer the service, too

hmm, i'll see what i can get today

actually toomey silencers will go on fmf's and make more power. fmf silencers on toomeys will likely do the opposite

yah, allod do run engine ice for better cooling, but i really like dex-cool prestone. it's a lubricant base, and has better heat transfer than any conventional. make sure to fully flush the old stuff sitting below the drain bolts in the cylinders. 2-3 heat cycles, which means to warm it up to hot operating temp with the cap off, then letting it naturally cool untill the cyls/head are cold to the touch. then retorque the head in sequence again.

i would replace the plug caps, if you haven't already, and check thee frame ground and other wire connections first. it's probably happening in all gears, just the at 3+ is high enough to feel it better

not to bash, but i wouldn't want someone diggin into a bike that i'm sellin. i have seen too many "rough" mecanics, and wanna-be's to just trust anyone

unless you have changed what you are planning to do with your motor, i would switch at 145-150psi. keep in mind, tah this is knowing your motor. some can go 180+ on 93, setup right. i pulled 180 with 90oct. now, for the head, rule of thumb, is keep it under .030" shave, but you should measure squish first. most of the time, more than that will call for cutting the chamber to fix the squish.

hahahahaha, funny you should mention the drain screws that is the first thing to get messed up when a needle/seat leaks. they only need to be snug, not real tight. if they don't seal, clean them and try again. first thing to do is remove the float, and needle and clean it. then check the adjustment and put it back together. if it poors, tap the bowl, in case the float is sticking. if there is actually a bad needle/seat, then all it will do is slightly drizzle, not poor, out of the drain tube. few times a week in shout, and several posts again and again show how common, and often all this info is spread around. long story short, this thread will soon be forgotten

so, did he install the .030 topend, or have it installed?

i thought you said you had the metal sheilded one, not pllastic sealed.. "s" is plastic sealed, "z"is metal sheild. "n" is for the snapring groove, and i can't remember what denotes that it has the circlip, roller style, or higher load rating, etc. now any old bearing manufacturer won't do. it may work in 90% of aplications as a replacement, but on the crank, i don't want it to flake, wear excessively, ir simply fail because of cheap materials or tolerances. i went in and paid almost $40 for a "max load" form a local place, of a good quality brand. i don't think people ar paying 90 for just the bearing. mabey to have the crnk sent in and swap it out, or you could be confused with the tz flat roller style, which is about right. i would personally go with an 8 baller for higher reving motors. how many balls you have?

what? no one has a 2012 yet?......damn, i shoulda picked it, since that would probably be the time i finish my 97, lol

you can unplug the little box next to the coil to disable it, but you will run into issues with the intakes cracking from the weight, throttle sticking when they get wet, 100x the headache jetting, etc, etc.....

i'd say he is responsible for getting you to at least a .030" topend

dual 38's?

you can cross it on a vxb site. that should be a "z" style bearing, if i remember correctly. the "s" style uses the plastic seals, like your axle bearings. either way, you should be able to ge the rpm rating in both grease and oil, since it's not a sealed unit. what is the part number and manufacturer? how many balls? as for the crank, it depepnds on the condition of everything else. wildcard, fast, and probably a few other sponsors can do the work, but if you fin that you need much more than the center bearings and seal, which is the least i would put in there having one grenade, then it could run as much, or more than a new crank

so, enlighten me......how do you know this? most likely if the needle had to be richened, then the main could be lean. what is the chamber size? stock head uncut?

um....some steel wool works great for rusted chrome.......and polish

if you can expand the headder up to the cyls, smooth out the step-ups where the baffles start, and radius the 90* bend in the middle of the chamber, it could flow with the 4mill better

if you back out of the throttle a little on on the topend, 5-6th, does the power pick up a little? what is the gearing/tire size?

the reed theory is a good theory, but every bike would do it then, since even brand new reeds send a pulse back, which should partially be transfered to the other side on it's intake cycle, via the crossover. i'm assuming you are running stock carbs? give them a thourough oriface cleaning, including the airjet, needle jet, vent tubes, and make sure the slide vents are not blocked, such as installed wrong, or retainers sealing the holes off. and, one biggie- the air filter(s) make sure the filters are not dirty or over-oiled. are the overfow tubes bent in the bowls? is the drain hoses routed stock? are the carbs sagging from worn intakes? the float springs are there to prevent this from happenening, so something is causing it to pull the level up too far,

just to clarify about the 110 rods- on a properly built/clearanced topend, reliability and piston wear issues aren't really that much more than a longrod. for those interested, 110 does yeild faster and higher reving with better balance, and lower dwell time. TRIXIE!!......how much does cryo cost anyways? just curious- is that the new rods, or old ones?

in theory, it could work. you will need to take some readings, though. on the primary resistance, they would each have to read at least .4 ohms, mabey more. i'm not sure if the cdi can handle the load, or if the stator will push enough current otherwise

huh?

i have found the current hr cranks seem to have lower quality bearings on both the rods and mains, than stock. same goes for the center labrynthe seal. the hr shelf weld seems to be pretty weak, to.....i think it is still a decent webbing to start with,m though. as for the vitos- i, and i'm sure no one else can really tell quite yet, since they changed signifcantly for what appears better in bearings, rods, and webbing. the rods are improved alloy and manufacturing process, bearings of better materials, and the webbing is keyed to prevent any turning from true. it all sounds good, but how stringent it is made has yet to be seen, at least as far as i know. if the crank isn't true to begin with, there is no way to effectively bring it to true. if the bearings aren't pressed as precise, then they can fail, even with the better material. if the consistancy of the rod material, and teperatures are conducted with loose tolerances, then you can get weak spots, or ineffective results....these are all mabeys, as i don't really know, just what i have seen of the discriptions. oh, and one down on the vitos, is the rubber center seal. i'm a firm believer that the stock labrynthe is the most superior availiable. next is the soft and loose aftermarket labrynthe, and rubber is last in line. i suppose that it just means the crank is pretty done when you have to rebuild it. for a better crank than either, you can have one built or modded with balacing and such through a major outfit like crankworks, but be prepared to really shell out, lol

man, your avatar looks like she is taking a dump......just couldn't hold it in any longer man....