AKheathen

first, check the simple things like carb sync and misfires. then, i would do a compression and squish check on both sides.....i chased one when i first got mine, thinkin "no way they vibrate that much. it was actually a chewed up squish in the chamber from a previous ring snag causing a compression imballance. also, make sure the flywheel is square on the crank and seated properly.

just fill it...starti it up and rev it if you want. there is really nothing to bleed. that is why it has that little hose on the top of the head.

yah, stock is supposed to come with 210, in most cases, but allot of times the 200'sa went in, which is supposed to be anything over 60something degrees sea level. freezing temps needed 220 or 240, depepnding....... so, i take it that you are going to buy some pro-circuits, when the time is right? if you are gonna throw something on there eventually, then i would start with silencers for that. for sound- the toomeys are preyy nice on any pipe, and slip right on the stock mids.

since you just bought the thing, go ahead and throw some new plug caps on there. they are cheap, and do go out over time. x2 on trying the stock stator and definately don't go lean on the jetting. was the flywheel removed with the right puller, not a jaw puller, every time?

you cannot simply drop a stroker in. for a 4mill shortrod, you need to either run the spacer, or get the head/domes recessed for the extra stroke (recomonded option) you can run the regular pistons, though.......for longrod, you need longrod pistons, and the plate or recess......you will be missing out on a huge amount of power if you do not port it, though.

i was gonna say that a TRINITY 2-1 can even hold back the pro-circuits, and it think the greydon is the only 2-1 that flows any decent-normal topend, but snoop has the #'s i still believe that dual carbs can perform just as well as any 2-1 on the bottom, once tuned right. can you transfer those figures over to a tq. gain/loss snoop? as for changing it up, the carbs are gonna get what you are looking for, and the pcp's will actually rev a bit higher than you think...they are pretty much a really strong mid pipe that pulls wide from low to high. what else is done to the motor? i would start looking at other mods first, probably, then go from there. if you really want to try different pipes, then slap some t-6's on there. they are a really wide band pipe that actually demands quite a bit less flow than the pro-circuits, and will pick up some efficiencey, depending on how built the motor is.

you might have the body on backwards.......if it's the kind with 2 cutouts on the shaft for a wrench, the cutout goes to the inside of the pressure plate, and you have to remove it to adjust. ayt least that's how mine, and all the older ones are.

well, the only reason i believe it could be something other than 4mill is the fact that you stated to have recessed domes and spacer plate. it's pretty easy to compare the 2 cranks. if you look in the webbing behind an outter bearing, you can see where the rod pin comes through. measure from the edge of the bearing to the edge of the pin. as for 7mill, i may be wrong, i don't remember, but i think the point of going 7 mill instead of 10 is to avoid case work.

why you lookin for new cyls? anyway, i would simply dig in first, since you already have funds, and spec everything out to see where you stand. probably need a bore. order pistons to the next useable size, and have it bored to match them, get your gaskets and sealant, and follow the manual to tear the case apart and check the crank, tranny, and clutch out. digging in is really the only way to know what you need to do.

that calls for a needle adjustment, actually

generally, a hesitation like that pinned is a lean main jet, although plug caps can mymic it sometimes. that's pretty rpm specific, usually

generally, the double nut approach works, but if you can't get it with that, there is a std stud removal tool, which is like a disc with 2 or 3 holes and a lobe you turn with a rachet or breaker bar. you can also use heat on it to help

haha, jetting was the first thing i was gonna suggest. yah, you should be within 1 size by now, if it is just 6th, and 5th is pullin good.......probably do a plug chop once it pulls fine, just to be sure

what pilots are in there? that's a good indication that they are 1 size too big

hahaha, well, i'm willing to bet you pulled or bumped something, like a float, or just didn't get the cable seated all the way back in. check the sync first...... and, a side note- mikuni jet size denotes flow, which includes taper, as well as oriface size...not that it really matters, here

they represent 17degrees btdc....it's to measure @ idle, or anything below 2krpm, which is where the timeing changes

so, that explains why i wasted my time reading your retarded posts......otherwise, nice heads up ty...i was gonna dump some money there, too.

a few things i have noticed about the current hotrods cranks- they are running cheap bearings, especially the rod bearings. the center seal is still labrynth, but softer than stock, so it will wear quicker. it is my honest opinion, that the oem is superior in eveything, save for the webbing.....vitos cranks were utilizing some stock components for their cranks, from what i can tell, and cost is the only reason to chose them over oem, unless welded....that being said, it appears that vitos has made some major improvements on the recent version of their cranks, at least the 4mill anyway. now, all bearings are superior to both stock and hotrods, rods are improved in design and strength, and the webbing is keyed....i don't know if the keyed webbing will prove to be a plus for strenght at all, or an issue with trying to true, and they are running what appears to be a rubber center seal, which would be horrible, as labrynth seals pretty much last, or outlast the life of the adjacent bearings, and rubber will wear down much quicker, focing you to rebuild the crank, and probably replace the worn pin from the seal riding the surface constantly.....what i decided to do, was rebuild a couple hotrods cores into better cranks than all of them......not really saving any money after all is said and done, but a much better product in the long run. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/YAMAHA-BANSHEE-VITOS-4MM-STROKER-STD-ROD-CRANK-/110477369477?cmd=ViewItem&pt=Motors_ATV_Parts_Accessories&hash=item19b8f6e085

wrong section, dude

describe the sluggish better, and conditions.....was it sputtering? what throttle range? was it warmmed up to operating temp? was it like a delay in response, or hesitation? bogging? might be more than just the main size, as the main sets the wot operation only.

well, then you have only established that it is a long rod....as for the edge of the webbing, you cannot rely on distance to the outter circumference of the webbing, as they vary with different cranks, otherwise, 10 mill would just about be out of the webbing, and verry unballanced. seriously, though, you need to measure the rod pin center distance from crank center...you can use the bearing as a reference point. if it has longrod pistons, only 4mill domes, and a 4mill 1.5mm plate, then it could possibly be a 7 mill.......you won't know untill you measure, because even running the wrong pistons, 2mm recessed domes and 1.5mm plate will not clear, even on stock stroke

lol, whe got it......so, you measured the stroke out? or just rod length? how recessed are the domes? mabey 3mm, which would be too much to run 4mill with the right pistons

exactly how are you testing the coils? what wire to what? you have to test cap to cap, and orange to black.......i've never heard of a cdi frying a coil......don't think it's possible