AKheathen

do not run strait coolant without some sort of chemical in there. chances are, there has been some conventional coolant left in there for more than 2-3 years and insulated the surfaces with varnish. glycol, although not the most efficient, aides heat transfer, dex-cool works 10x better, and water wetter/engine ice are formulated just for optimum heat transfer, but do not work good for freezing temps. start with a flush if you see some buildup in there, by removing the pump cover, then go with a good coolant @60/40-70/30. a billet impellar is an awesome upgrade for cooling, and reliability. i suggest a mull press-on

the dyna f/s programable has 4 pre-programmed curves in it with 2 havingdiffernt levels of retard, 1 stock (ish) and 3 differnt advance profiles. the unit itself has increased capacitance for stronger spark. if you need to run stock exhaust, or stock looking, you can gut the stock pipes and they will pull decently, probably as hard as the dynoport, or you can try to sneak by with ptr's, which look like stock pipes, but without the seams

yah, i bent it out a bit, and had to use spacers to bolt the nerfs on.......guess i'll just have to space it more and hope the pegs hold. you do allot of jumping and hard stompin on the pegs ryan?

just the lid alone will make a 2-3 size differnce on the main jet. snorkel=1 size.

if you are not ported, then start with 290main, 27.5 pilots likely, and needles on the middle clip. airscrews @ 1.5 turns out. likely you may have to go with a 270-280 main, but mabey more.

put them on, and then check the jetting. i did have to lean it out a couple sizes, but i also went through temp/humidity change at the same time, so i don't know what difference the reeds themselfs made.

the o-ring behind the cover is dual puropse. first- without it, the insert will eventually, or even immediately, start to rattle/tap like crazy making you chase your tail trying to find the sound, and 2nd- it should seal it up, like you are thinking, to be able to drill the hole to adjust the clutch. i think it's like a 1" hole as the origional mod was done, but i hear it's a tad tight. really, you can go big as you need to get a wrench and screwdriver in there to adjust it. the adjuster is right in the center.

welcome to the site, there is tons of info here for whatever you need. the first things to check are the compression to make sure it's even on both sides, the flywheel, and the gears behind the clutch cover. does it go away when you pull the clutch in? in gear? the kicker idler gear can wobble and tap the clutch basket gear, the clutch gear can wear on the basket and make a gear knock, the water pump can make noise, and the clutch/bushings can make rattle. the crank itself can have a bad bearing, which needs a bit more tear-down to inspect. you would have to pull the cyls first to check the rods, then split the cases if you cannot see anything when you have it that far down. unwelded cranks have also been known to star to separate at the rod pin, which will just show as excessive side clearance on the rod. you can hold a broomstick or long screwdriver to your ear to pinpoint the knock placing the other end in different areas.

depending on your elevation, i wouldn't go smaller than 20's for pump, and you need to make absolutely sure not to lean them out. 1mm+ overbore and the 20's will likely be too small. however you will start sacrificing topend overrev with the compression, so i would keep it 21cc asl. too much timing advance will hurt the topend, as well. you can get around it by running a dyna f/s programamble ignition, where you can get your advance in the midrange for more power, but also rutard the topend, which is what you really want. as for pipes, you are going to want to look for the high-efficiency mid-top pipe, rather than a drag pipe. there is allot of info on this site in the jetting/exhaust, but it may be hard to find. off the top of my head, i would have to say t5-3, some older fmf rev pipes, (i actually have a set of the first gold series paired to toomey silencers, and they rip really hard like a lightswitch mid-top) and rockets/ptr high revs i'm not sure about on how efficient they are at stock flow rates. fast clutch with 3hd springs will do you good, then 33-36mm carbs, since you aren't too worried about the bottom end. bigger than that, and you are just slowin the air down, and loosing allot of atomization. vf3's aren't really needed, unless you plan on goin over 4mill. some boysen pro reeds, or carbon tech high's. the charriot cage works nicely, as well.

just curious what others have done to keep the rear brake lever from rubbing the dd lockup cover. i don't like how tight it wedges in there, but i also don't want to adjust it so far down that you have to roll your foot almost strait down to use the brake. it goes too far down as it is when you really have to brake. there is no air in the lines or anything of that nature, it works fine with the stock cover. do you need to buy a special lever, or pegs to clear, and make it right? i was considering just welding mine up differently.....

lol, i meant "shake it".....and tap it in the palm of your hand from different directions

well, 3/4" weld on a 7/8" pin is a bit more than a tack weld. that would be a tack weld to hold a 4'x8' sheet of 1/4" steel. tack would be one spot welded, rather than a bead. it may look small and not verry deep at first galnce, but there is quite a bit of penitration and area in the weld

lol, the banshee is designed so that the head and top of the radiator is the only place to hold air, so the head is vented by that tiny hose. just fill it, shake it side to side a couple times, and put the cap on. fill the rezivoir if you have it, to the proper line and go ride. any air will purge there, and if you don't use a rez. then there will always be a small amount of air in there.

lol, yah, the term is not "trued and tacked" it is actually welded pretty deep into the webbing and pins to keep them in place, and some even add extra welding around the whole pin. they just gouge the wled out to take it apart and either replace the pin, since most rod kits come with one, or weld the gouge back in, if posible.

2- things.....first, if the key looks like that, then the flywheel has been running loose, probably about 10 degrees off, too, and not keeping good pickup gap. it will likely come loose again. you should check the tapers for square and make sure they are not glazed up. 2nd- do your lights flicker allot, and does the flywheel make any rattle when you shale it?

go up on the pilot size, and bring the idle back down. it should only do that in the first 10 seconds or so when you start it cold. after that, it wwill just start loading up

ah, if they were wobblin for a bit, the threads might be worn out.

holy crap, you're right....guess i went a little lysdexic there, lol. nice save. i haven't changed them in over 1-1/2 years, and don't plan on it for a long time. i did check one plug last week, and it looks great, and still has a perfect gap. also, with the 0.4mm electrode, the spark is unshrouded, and they are damn near infoulable

the way to make a 2 stroke deisel is withe allot of heat. extra fuel actually keeps it cool. there are only 2 ways to stop it. either give it extra fuel, or physically stop it rotating. if it was too rich at idle, it would just lug down, aka loading up with fuel, and usually floods out.....however, i do agree it's probably just a carb tuning issue. likely that your idle is too high to begin with, but running lean. does the choke make it idle up alot higher when you start it?

iw24 is the 9's...iw27 is the 8 series

ouch, that sucks make sure to find the old screws, and probably get longer ones

i run denso irriduims, much better design than the ngk. you should be running br8 no problem if it's getting the right oil/fuel, and has good spark. check you pickup gap on the flywheel, try new plug caps, and make sure the oil is not separating in the fuel. i ran into that problem on my sno-go years back and switched from a 9 to a 10 and it stopped glazing them, but the real problem was too much oil deposits and dirty fuel making it glaze. you can torch the fouled plugs glowing red with a propane torch and they will work again

well, that is a sure sign air is getting past and leaning it out. make sure the little choke tube is in place, and that the carbs aren't glazeed where they seal to the intakes. if the air screws need that much fuel, either the pilot is too big, or there is a leak

make sure the spacer does not block off seal exposure, or flow through the bearing on that side. they both need to get regular fresh oil to them. and make sure it still allows for some play, or it can bind on the bearings when it's running

i cannot agree with the statement that sst's won't make power, or are not good for a ported motor. they will indeed make nice power on the correct port job. they just aren't a topend pipe, is the problem, so dune/drag will not match, but a trail port will work good, especially setup for the pipes. they are one of the 2 wideband pipes out there, so they start to come on kinda low-mid, and still rev out, while carrying a gradual, smooth powerband in the mid to mid-top. as for the "gold series" i have a set of origional gold series layin around and they pulled verry hard from the mid-topend. they come on like a lightswithc and pull all the way up, but i wouldn't really say they hit a brick wall on top, unless you advance the timing. i really love the pro-circuits' power in the woods and wo dirt roads and hillclimbing. when you say aggresive trail- do you mean you pretty much keep it up in the pipe, or do you lad it down near idle allot and need to jump back up. if you need to clutch allot, then a nice midrange pipe that pulls hard may be what you need, pro-circuit will pull really hard, similar to the fatties in power level, but coming on much earlier, and keeping power above and below the main curve. sst's will not really have a defined powerbsnd, but start making power in lower-mid, and gain like a 4stroke band then taper to the rev-out. the rockets, i have heard are awesome on mountain trails and wide-open runs, coming on in the mid and pulling to the moon, like an obeese t-5, but i don't know anything about the r-2, possibly improvements, or rpm chance, which could be godd, or bad well, that's my 20 cents