AKheathen

it's funny you should mention that....slide design does change the jetting a little, since the venturi changes. on a round, the cutout makes a difference in how the ventury acts at different positions. for instance, a 1.5-2.0 is usually used with good results. the 1.5 will have more velocity and pull closer to idle, and the 2.0 will have a stronger effect continuing to a higher position. inversely, this is pretty much below 1/2 throttle position, and above that, it becomes more of a restriction, especially with a steeper cutout. we mostly tune that performance via needle taper, then some go to the air jet and needle jet for finer tuning of atomization, which will help more with rich needs more than lean tuned needs. for the most part, cutout is totally ovelooked, since a guy tuning at that level will likely move to a flat, d, or oval slide carb. flat slides throw the main in the point of highest draw, just as the flow path starts to expand, and pretty much keeps that same effect through all positions, gradually lesening near wot, but the whole carb bore generates the effect anyways. d and oval slides probably flow the best/smoothest in the mid, while still generating a strong venturi pull. why these venturi differences matter ove tuning the mixture via needles and jets, is because it is tuning the atomization, instead of just controlling the flow of fuel.

actually, 08 on the plate is 17*only up to 2k, then it jumps to total 22* and tapers down to 9*....so, that would be a 29*total @ +7, and 34* total @ +12........that is actually what you are setting it at, just to clarify what it would conver to when using the dyna and plate

wait- you want high speed, vibrating love beads? that's groose

really, i just give up.......i've been sleeping far too little lately to try to figure out how to talk to ya

um, no.....the deisel won because he put out 400ft/lbs of tq vs. like 160..........and deisels don't have a big wide band......the gaser could be running a high average from 3-7k, as the deisel is only pullin 2-3.5k, but keepin it in that area. on the inverse...if you have an average of 40, as you say, on motor a, and an average of 30 on a peaky motor, but the peaky motor is makin 5 more in the peak, then it can win by keeping the power there, since races are not based on a single gear pull.......of coarse, shift time plays a role and other bs.......oh, and you origionally said that pc's would make an awesome drag pipe, lol...so which is it? boy, this seems real familiar........like this one time, everyone was trying to drill how important the transfers are when porting...............and it was just as much an entailed intercession

well, ok, i am still confused as hell as to what the real questions are here........you wanna know what will win in a drag race? what the pipe falls in as for category? how much power it puts out? what graph shows the pipe's power better, or what shows it's accelleration? what kind of pipe is pro-circuit? what...be plain. all i can say is that hp may be how much work the engine is doing, but tq is what you feel, what you use, and what actually makes the hp in the first place. think about a 230hp deisel pullin 350hp v8 by 2seconds, and ponder why

the rear shock is adjustible on rebound and compression.....there is the knob on the top, and the ring on the bottom. preload is easy to figure out.....the fronts have that, too....grab the wrench for it, or big channel locks and turn it to tighten/loosen. front shocks aren't the greatest, so you would normally just buy some replacements that are better, or adjustable, and the rear can be better, and you can have it worked, but it's ok adjusted right.

ok, ok, i'll answer. basically what i'm sayin is that we don't know how the dyno is loading the engine down, and how much difference that makes at different rpms......for example, a torque converter will put more load through at higher rpms, than lower, meaning that lower rpm's will be able to climb faster with less power than higher rpm's......so showing a 1 second peak at 7-8k might look different than it pullung 3 seconds from 8500-9500.....not that that's what exactly hppened, but it can vary a bit, if you think about it.....that's why i like rpm graphs showing tq......i can get a better feel of what it would do in the feild... as for the trinity power range....it's still significantly higher and more coneiled than the pro-circuits....what it would feel like is coming on like a light switch at a mid-high rpm, then pull flat for a little, and fall right off like a switch. the t-5's can be tuned that way, but can also be made to come on smooth and in the mid, which is more real-life freindly......aside frfrom having more efficiencey. that is another thing that appears to be kinda low on the trinity

where were those domes when i needed them?

didn't i buy some pipes from you? i sandblasted the white ones, and used vht........baked right, and worked awesome

yup, it's done....

why don't you just get some pc's, put a tach on your bike and see what they really feel like on the ass dyno........being able to overrev them pretty far is a bonus in some situations where you can't shift, but that is just an extension, letting the engine run out unchoked, not actually part of the pipes power....basically "in the pipe" then back "out".......whaen it comes down to what "kind" of pipe PRO-CITRCUIT pipes are, well, i didn't think it was that hard to figure out, if noone told ya. they are for professional circuit MX racing if you study on real mx porting, you can see that the emphasis is in the midrange, starting a little low, but really putting through some flow in that range. now, if you study the pipes, you can really see this in them....they actually do loose a bit of lowend on an unported motor, and "come on" later than they should. once, again, overrev in this kind of build is a plus, but no where near the focus. i remember the first time i bolted them on, going from a mid-top pipe that pulled you off the bike on stock porting, to the pro-circuits on pretty stock everything. it was truley amazing how much low-mid torque became availiable whenever you need it, and i put the power through many scinarios, and keep buildin. i had my wifey ride bitch, then hit the woods, and it pulled really hard from the bottom right up some nasty climbs. i also took it out in the open on an old mining road up the mountain with huge switchbacks racing high speed......let me tell you that the overrev was nice to keep it sideways for a really long time without shifting, but way past where the power is....well this is just the tip of what it feels like, and i'm ramblin, but you get the idea....

well, that's just it- a dyno run based on rpm will disregaurd that 1 second hold and not progress the chart, if that were to happen.....the computor factors it all.

ok, i'll add my 2,000,000 cents now, lol......the key word on that chart is TIME. it shows that the dynoport came on real quick, pulled, and dropped of, as to be expected from any 2-1 pipe. then the trinity took it's sweet ass 3seconds to come on, and pull for 2 seconds. once again, forget about the hp and look at what the torque curve looks like. still peaky, even though it's hard for you to visuallize by looking at a time curve, not rpm curve. for all we know, it could have been pulling near same rpm's for a second

unscrew the caps and test again at the wires, and then remove the wires if nothing and test directly at the coil.....

lol, i have a mini-ruck, well 2 actually. clear tail and neon green and green neons, even in the engine/wheelwells, lol. 2 gen1 firebirds, and 2 tuners, but the z24 rolled, and the sunfiregt broke a ring, so they are about to become one, once i get a few projects done. chipped, injen intake, tuned exhaust, b&m short shifter, clutch, etc, etc......allot of that ricer shit is from immitating real bulds, lol........oh, and eveything needs a system, pretty much. the smoked out ltz autoride on banshee dubs is my daily. i just couldn't stan the gaughty red/orange lights.

i don't think i'd mess with the 90* crank outside of drag. you would need to buy a special flywheel, stator, 2coils, etc, just to run it. just get a good quality longrod 4mill, and cut domes for standard bore. the shortrod will slightly change the port timings, and rev out quicker and higher, but, if you let your topend run real loose and/or drystarts, then the reliability issue will come into play. the 90 will probably shake at, or near idle pretty good, but it should be ballanced pretty good, actually.

you have a dry connection, or faulty component.......if you are trying to get it fixed at a place that wants to sell you a new one, you are looking in the wrong place.......go to an actuall repair shop. they do not sell tv's btw........it's probably a 2-12 dollar part, or no parts, and a little labor to fix.

is it a stock coil? and, what does your meter read zeroed (leads touching together) you have to subtract that. test the 2nd anyway- cap to cap, not cap to primary.

yah, sonds like lean/airleak.....it should calm down when you pull the choke.........you pretty much have to build it as far as i know, currently. mabey a sponsor has pre-made ones, like fast. check your carbs where they clamp into the intakes. mine were glazed up once, and it reved to the moon while i was ridding........i scuff them, or make sure they are still scuffed good every time i put my carbs on now. look @ the bottom of the intakes for cracking. pry the carb around to expose cracks. make sure there is no water in the bowls either, and that the jetting is good and set for a hot engine, too.

have your port timings checked. the 4mill will make lots of power, but you sacrifice allot if you run a spacer, and of you don't port. you run recessed domes, not blaster domes....unless you are on a big enough bore, and running blaster pistons, lol...then you get recessed blaster domes. the strokers are more torquey by nature

huh? that last half sounds cut off....

i really don't think your std. vulcanizing compound will hold a paddle down, and i know cyanoacrylate (super glue/plane-hobby glue) will hold a butt joint on an o-ring, but tire cappers use an adhesive to glue the new tread on old tires, and that will hold permenantly. you may get away with window weld- windsheild eurothane, which is some pretty strong stuff, but anything else you use as a temp fix might keep it from being repaired the right way later.

just replace them......i'm sure there is some in the for sale section.....there ususally is. i wouldn't trust them since, i'm pretty sure that chipped area keeps that side square, and the other damage could have stressed/cracked in a way you can't see.

so, what did they change?