AKheathen

which 2-1 intake kit do you have? if it's the trinity, you are probably gonna want to swap it out with the t-4's. it kills allot of topend. so, i would say to port it, and decide now if you are going to stroke it, before you get it ported. timing plate, and/or adjustable ignition, coolhead, reeds, and you are on your way with the motor....oh, and a good clutch setup to hold the power. shocks are a biggie, and a longger swinger and arms. allot is dependant on what you want, weight, and riding conditions as far as sus. setup...

sooo hard to get pics from chicks....

you are going to want stock springs with the lockout. if they are probably old as dirt, or you don't know, then just replace them. they are really cheap. now- as for which components to run- go through all the parts you have, grab the book/diagram/whatever, and put the best parts in there. then, adjust it up right

that exact scinario is from weak current feeding the cdi- it takes about 3-4 kicks fot the cdi to build up enough power to fire, whereas it should be building it in 1 kick, and every revolution. only thing that does it is weak flywheel, or power from the wingings, which can ba a wirirnf connection in the harness, or even at the cdi plug. take your readings at the cdi and see ehat you come up with, then wiggle wires and inspect the plugh connections to find and issue there

basically, woods porting puts the power starting right from the lowend, as stated, but what's more, the power and feel is allot more road and useable at differnt load ranges, for getting real technical. dune, on the other hand, is more of a flat out hard pull mid-top, but still retains some good, useable mid-low. a couple missed between the 2 are mx and trail. mx is focused on the midrange as a priority with low and high still working in there. trail is right there about the same as dune, but with more midrange and broader power. there area allot of different named port styles, and it's not really as cut-and dry as to exactly how they perform, especially when comparing one builder to the other. one mans dune will be close to trail, and anothers' closer to drag.

the 2 dual stages are power and pro. since you do allot of dune, and probably not woods, go with the pro, which should come with the charriot cages, if i'm not mistaken, and they sell replacements really cheap. superstock reeds are basically stock reeds with a little different tension, and really are for stockish motors with basic bolt-ons. i'm running the pro reeds on stock ported cages right now, but i still keep the power reeds around, since i really like how well they smooth everything right from the bottom and in the powerband kick. what that translates into is- you reasonably get the ammount of power you want in relation to how much throttle you give it, which really helps when i want to go exploring through the woods. i like the pro's for faster trails, hill shooting, and all-around even crisp performance. i'm still waiting to get the charriot cage, untill i have the rest of the 4mill put together..

boysen dual stage- if you are on a tight budget, or ride woods and don't wanna spend 100, then just get the power reeds. they will make power, and low rpm will be smoother, with a gain in the top, and less lightswitch. the pro reeds will be snappier, and crisper. it's hard going from a reed that gains everywhere, then trying to compare.......both charriot cages with the boysen reeds, and vforce pu out the most, just feel different. so, if you wanna try, pickup some power reeds and do your stockker, but you will get pretty much what you are looking for from the charriot, which you can just about pay for by sellin the vforce reeds.

who was that chick yellin "you better believe...."? front tire catch?

actually, the combination of reeds and cage will get you anywhere between 2-3hp in a piped motor........throttle response, feel, and power profile are what sets all the different combo apart. vf and charriot ftmfw foo.....but, pedals alone will still get decent power, but big builds start feeling the prolems with stock cages allot more. i will irriterate, it is not a huge difference just porting the cages, and you might not feel it. probably only if you start getting into something technical, or a manuver, that you seem to make it easier, but your pants will probably stay the same on a stockish motor. it's just a decent free mod, and neato little project.

worse, it can cause the crank to separate, and it will keep running untill it throws the rod through your cyls and bust the cases......make sure, if you did use the proper puller, that the taper seat isn't galled up, making it sit crooked, and that the key didn't move and bind it up crooked.....also, always use some loctite on the nut when installing....

well, here is a pic of what banshee cages look like ported. that other pic doesn't look like stock cages. basically, you want to do it all by hand with differnt files. steeper angles will help lower rpm performance, and longer, more gradual angles will flow better at higher rates. it pretty much helps the reeds move a little differently, and freely, rather than increasing flow. only real way you can do any harm is if you cut too much from where the reed seals and it starts to leak. not at all a big bump in power, but a nice little project. i'd compare it to a little cleanup porting and intake match on a car/truck. i would like to add, that where it is hogged out near the screws, the outters should be radiused around, not just squared off openings, like the pic shows.

higher tension for higher rpm power, and lower tension for more mid power. pretty much, rpm=power, soo......

well, the vent hose is supposed to run up to a high spot with a wobble cap for going through water and not getting it in there, if it's low, it will puke. i think it goes right up by the radiator. it will also pue even up there, if it's overfilled. you should fix the leaks anyways, but if it's at the axleshafts, there's usually a bearing out. as for the 3rd gear, poping out is pretty much 2 things- either the engine, or cab mounts are worn out, and it's torquing enough to bump the shifter, or the tranny itself needs repair.

well, depends on how far you wanna go........first thing- timing, either just a plate, or a dyna, and both, if you want- it'll give you allot of punch when you need it, and next thing is reeds....there are several different options, depending on budget, and how you want to shape the power. "feel"

you ever tote around a tool box for a while, then wonder how your screwdrivers are suddenly magnatized? i guess i won't get into the filter debate again, but drop-in of any kind is known for seal leakage, especially when it starts to get dirty. even the seal in the billet adapter has benn known to leak and need some sealant. you probably really didn't do anything abnormally wrong or neglectfull, and the pipe theory is most likely what happened. the book method of break-in is based on the old coarse hone that is barely used anymore. if you do get the modern cross hatch- the new break-in is simply to run a coupe heat cycless, retorque the head, and then go do some plug chop runs. 'bout the best thing you can do, imho, and use normal mix ratio, too.

um, that scoring did not happen from 5 min on a k&n filter..........it would either be something you did rebuilding, or problems on break-in, like incorrect clearances for that specific piston, jetting, or simply a result of that pin beating on the top, trying to rock it. now, did you check the locator pins off both cranks, if the vitos even used them? did you thouroughly inspect every part before installing, pipes aside? that pin could have been magnatzed and stuck to one thing or another, or been stuck to a messy tube of sealant, glove, grease, or whatever. hell, if you had that k&n sitting around exposed, all kinds of shit can end up in there, or using the airbox to hold parts, which it works good for. i'm not trying to talk down, just sharing past experience and observation. even this winter, i had my flywheel on-off 20+ times in 3 weeks, and got so efficient at it, i didn't even need to check the flywheel over every time i put it on.....well, i kicked once, and it fired up a couple times, then just stopped....it wouldn't kick after........turns out, there was a rear hub nut stuck to the inside, and trashed a stator i had just spent 3-4 hours and $20 in wire, etc rewinding. to me, that was an $80+ stator, and flywheel, so, that one oversight cost me about $200/sec.........long story short, that pin came from somewhere, and there is a igger problem than running a k&n....

you should get a little bit of deflection on both rods, but if, it is actually sliding 1/8" on the crank pin, then there is a problem with the crank. likely that the webbing is separated. and, it usually happens on the flywheel side. if there is allot of play in that kicker idler, it can "knock" on the back of the clutch gear, so i'd replace that bushing, too, which is pretty cheap. as far as option to rebuild or buy, you really need to check out all the clearances, but odds are it will be more to rebuild, than replace. i wouldn't recomend trusting just any old used stocker, either, but some do have low hour, and beefed up stock cranks which could be trustworthy, if you are lookin new, or if you want to sink the coin into yours and beef it up, provided the webbing is useable, then it can be an option, it all depepnds on what you want...

the "no" is that a 2-stroke carb isn't as much unlike a 4-stroke carb as far a sizing, as you think. it's always been a rule that you calculate total cfm, and run the largest size carb below that, or mabey just a little bigger, if you really want, but the point is to get the full signal strength in as many throttle positions as possible, or you will likely not get it tuned near as good as you can. several factors here- i already outlined the ratio of tuning increments breifly, so next look at the shape..... in your example of a 26@ 10% opening, the fuel is fed more strategically placed, and shaped for good dispurtion into a more close-bordered stream. basically- the opening will be closer to round, with the fuel in the middle, not having so far to spread to mix. on the 35@ 4%, the shape of the opening is more flat and long, with the fuel coming from less percentage of the area, having to spread farther, and the delivery, being intended for higher flow, doesn't come out as broken to a fine mist as it should. what's more important/effected, is the enrichment effect, as already mentioned. while on a 4 stroke carb, you have the accellerator pump to inject fuel at the begining of the airstream , since there is a delay in the venturri on sudden opening. on a 2-stroke, you don't have the full recipricating pulse because of the reeds, but you get a little high velocity "spit" back through the middle of the carb, and it pulls fuel back out, then gets sucked in, so you have a double-enrichment effect, which is stronger, when compared to incoming flow, than at higher establoshed flow. with a larger carb, there is more area that is away from the jet for it to travel and not pickup fuel, so there is allot less enrichment. another thing to think about, is how the carb is tuned as a total- the main is set for 3/4- wot, which is a larger range on a big carb, and,of course, proably more than the smaller carb will flow, so, tha leaves you with just the needle and pilot vs. all 3 circuits on a smaller carb. so, when you compare large vs. small, the smaller has more fine tuning in the same range. the pilot circuit is pretty much for idle and just putting, not really ridding, but on an oversized carb, you are using it for more than it's designed. now, all this aside, nothing is impossible, and the thing i always suggest to anyone who really feels they need the igger carb, is practice using roll-on throttle, and if you get really good at tuning and understanding just exactly how every little thing works, like airjet, needle jet, cutout, etc, then you can tune an oversized carb to run as good, or better than most tune an appropriate size carb. basically, you are not just gonna throw a huge carb on and be happy with a few adjustments from a starting point, unless you have alreay put in an obscene amount of time/experience, like a builder would.

........no.......

the problem i have seen is the glue that holds the porcelin failing and leaking spark, which you can only see in the dark, which really sucks when you are in the middle of nowhere. i have seen it happen to other people, too........how's that for fact?

ok, you are basically look at this like a fuel injected motor, where the total air is set by the throttle body(s) not counting itake flow, etc. there, atomization is dependant on the fuel injectos them self, and one body can have as much bottom end as another 1/2 the size. it is possible, to tune a large carb to atomize low throttle/low rpm well, but, the adjusting increments are muah larger, and the tuned venturi is further away in cfm than a smaller carb. for most, the bottom end will simply just be "impossible to tune right". atomization controll via the airjet, needle jet, and needle, aside from expensive, will be more favaorable of one area, rather than another. if you want, go buy the rest to play with, tune it better, and praactice roll-on throttle and you may et some lowend back, but conventional tuning isn't gonna do it.

e-3 is a champion plug, which has always a garbage plug for anything but lawn mower type engines, imho

it's funny you should bring up a six-pack....... the point of that was mainly circuit racing in the trans-am and circle track "course" racing, but the 6 barrels obviously out flowed a spreadbore, or square bore, so it saw the drag, too. point being, that 2barrel carbs can be tuned allot more precise and responsive than a primary/secondary, but that's a whole other story to go on about........i think a more appropriate would be tunnel ram vs. low profile single plane, or something of that nature. the problem with the trinity 2-1 is the angles, and constant change in flow direction in such a confined space, more so than just the natural recipication. on a dual carb setup, the return puls id allowed to spit out of the carb, reducing interference at higher throttle range, and doesn't simply go to the other carb on the 2-1, because of delay, so the total air mass gets a little congested. think of it as 2 separate highways, vs. a 3-way intersection. i don't know how the greydon plays into this, since i have never even seen pics of it.

if it's a bent pipe, then there is allot more than just poppin dents out. probably, have to cut, reshape, then weld back

they put what where for how many jelly beans? and i wanna see pics!