WestSideRiderz15

1997 banshee. This banshee is on a fresh top and bottom end rebuild including a new crank, pistons, bored over cylinders, rings, head gasket ect. The carbs are spotless internally, jetted, and have TORS eliminator kit and Idle screws. The airbox has a single standard filter adapter and filter. It has a new regina chain, and renthal bars. I believe the rest of the bike is factory. The only issues that need to be taken care of are the choke doesn't stay out on its own anymore and one of the rear tires leaks overnight(bead has dirt in it and needs to be reseated). I have paperwork from the work I've done, as well as contact info for the last two owners i believe. I am in the market for a new car so cash only, 1800 Pics dont want to upload so Email me @ WestSideRiderz15@hotmail.com for Pics

I see. Never heard of a process, thought you just adjusted what needs adjusting according to where the problem was in the throttle band. I have a set of 27.5s ready to go so im going to try them out today and let you know

Stock pipes, stock carbs (-tors), bored to .75 over, no lid, sea level (1997) I am using 250 mains and my bike is on a fresh rebuild (pistons, rings, bored, crank). Bike takes like 5-6 kicks to start. Once warmed, the bike performs great after 1/8th throttle but bogs coming off idle. Also falls a little flat @ 90percent on in 5th/6th but may just be end of power I feel like my mains are overcompensating for a weak idle jet. Kinda feel like 50 over on the mains isnt really justified for just having removed the stock lid. Do 250's sound too big? If they are i may bump up idle jets and try a step down on my mains.

Solution: Received my head gasket a few days ago. Have gone on two rides now with no over flow issues so far. I believe the old head gasket was the cause of the overflow issues as expected. I re-torqued the head in the 3 step manner (10-15-20) as usual btw. For those curious: When the pistons are compressing, a minor bit of the pressurized air leaks past the head gasket and begins to pressurize the coolant system. This makes it appear as though the bike is overheating.

I need a new stock banshee head gasket. I can get the top end kit shipped for 18 but i only need the head gasket, so i am looking to save a few Bux. Thanks

Yeah normally trannys wont shift past second without turning the tranny at the same time. If it binds in an odd manner, the rod holding the gears could be bent.

I posted a thread on this issue a while ago with all the research needed to price the parts. Someone also posted a cheaper solution. Think its under how to fix a leaking carb...

Okay, Lets see here. Is that the 300ex with shaft drive and a sideways engine? Either way, you should get the clymer manual. There may be "shift star" that is exposed on the clutch side of the engine possibly that may need adjustment. This is speculation tho because i havent open that engine before. On a banshee and most quads i suppose, the shift rod goes all the way through the case to the other side to turn a shift star that has a spring "ball detent" style roller that keeps the bike in that gear. IF your bike is set up this way, you should be able to pull the clutch cover and examine the star and springs. Beyond that, you may have to split the case to get to the tranny. Like i said, Torrent the Clymer manual or buy one. GL and keep us updated!

In need of a cheap (new) factory head gasket for my banshee. Anyone Out there sell just the headgasket?

Ten four. Ill pull the head real quick and reseat everything. My headgasket was preety new when i took the head off last so i dont believe its blown. But i can believe the head isnt flatting it correctly. I did a two stage torque on my headbolts and retorqued after break in....

Adding a winch will require power. The banshee has no battery backup like the raptor does. You do have 12volt but low amperage, just enough to run the lights really. its why your lights get brighter as the RPMs climb. You would have to upgrade your stator and add a battery just for the winch... If you are still interested, some guys who do turbo banshees run electric oil pumps for the turbos and you could copy their battery setup. Maybe someone can make a smaller simple hand crank winch. Ive been stuck on my own a couple times where i could have used it on my banshee....

It seems to be as its warming up to hot. I popped the cap before i rode it today and the radiators a lil low on coolant but the overflow has lots. Could it also be a radiator cap issue? I took it for a ride jut now and read the temps with a heat gun. 180 engine, 150 radiator, 245 exhaust I dont believe i am lean, if aynthing i think im rich because my bike is preety stock and i am using 250 mains On a side note, i warmed the bike up and it was bogging off idle (assumed rich condition). So i ran the screws out to max (2.5 turns) and it didnt help much, i just ran it again with 1.5 turns and it runs much better off idle. This seems contrary to the norm.

I pulled my cylinders and had new pistons put in with a bore job. My banshee spits coolant out the over flow tube coming from the overflow reservoir. I use a temp gauge from an RC car (IR) and i dont believe my banshee is overheating and the bore job was a simple .75. I am currently jetting my bike to find an optimum so i dont believe that it is running lean. I heard on the forums that if you removed your head gasket and reused it, that pressure from combustion and compression can cause thecooling system to overpressure. Is this true? Does anyone else have problems with reusing a head gasket? +air lid removed, tors eliminated, .75 over, stock pipes and carbs+

For TORS elimination, loosen the lock screw and run the screw in with the air box off. You should be able to see the screws lift the slide a bit. Also, you should feel some restriction once you finally hit the slide with the screw. Dont go crazy filing it flat but it wont hurt to take some off if you have to. That hole has no other function on this carb.

Consider a bike running lean will rev high, no power. May be like a lean condition? Or, check throttle cable and slide heights(via windows on carb) to ensure they are closing correctly. Sometimes a sticky throttle cable can cause it to settle down slowly. The Throttle cable is a poor design. Check your compression on both cylinders with a compression tester ( i got a cheap harbour freight tools one and it works good).