AKheathen

i'm sure a bad seal there will cause something..............

did you say igloo!!?! my squirrel liven in a little igloo.........kinda brunetteish

looks like another obtrusive plug to me....i have thought about the design of a ring electrode for years, and the only answer i could find was to make it really thin to be reliable, and still open, but eh............i run denso irridiums, if you want to try that, too........i swear, i should have fouled these things out several times.....let me remember........iw24?

you can go ahead and run tap water if you want, lol...i'm sure you meant distilled/purified water.......ok, i will agree that water has a greater heat capcity than glycol, speaking specifically on the media itself. however, the full effect of heat transfer from the cylinders to the air are also dependent on transfer to, and from the coolant cyl to air. glycols will maintain a higher transfer rate in a system much longer than water, and at higher speeds. what happens is that it will reach a point where the flow will exceed it's ability to transfer, and retain the heat, also creating moderate thermal barriers. this effect will happen sooner with water, than glycol. the only problem i see with that would be a long, high rpm pull. the additives in watter wetter and engine ice aide in the transfer to/from the coolant at the surfaces and keep the thermal barriers down. btw, the best mixture at the track was watter/"coolant"/watter wetter, more so than watter/watter wetter.

yes, ther is a difference. vitos pistons are made by weisco, for vitos, but they are not "weisco" pistons, if that makes sence. basically, i don't think weisco would be comfortable putting their name on it, lol

whatever gets you ot of the woods....

prestone dex-cool 50/50. this stuff is a lubricant, too. antifreeze doesn't rais the temp, it transfers heat, among othwr things, better, so the coolant may be hotter, but it just means more heat is getting out of the cyls, which is the whole point, right? water will turn into an electrolyte quickly, and start corroding everything.

cranks separate from flex but either major imballance, force, or worn bearing tolerances. i doubt anyone is running a perfect even topend, anyway, and cranks would e flying apart left and right, since proaly more than 90% are unsynced.

give the cdi the "smack test".....i shit you not, that is a test. if it sparks after smacking it with the palm of your hand, there is a dry connection somewhere inside, and needs replaced. have you dug in and checked the stator/pickup?

you should be fine with 93. what the discussions on 100ll is all about is av vs. race fuels. guys can say what they want out of speculation, but when you have tha octane requirements to run it, av is just about some of the est you can put in there. federal regulations for purity/consistancy are just about the opposite of race fuels, since any aircraft you put it in is gauranteed to have peoples' lifes on the line, and race fuels, they just care about tax and shit, so quality depends solely on the manufacturer. avgas does atomize really nicely goin to the higher elevations as well, which makes it a great choice for mountain ridin, but with any higher oct. fuel, you need the octane/timing requirements, or you will actually loose power

by "flow rate", i basically mean how much air is flowing through the motor. there are different reasons that it might pull differntly. maintenance- basics, like airfilter, trans oil, chain lube, silencer packing, etc, and JETTING. fuel age and condition/mix. and how you ride/sit, then again, there is that "used to it" factor, lol..........which stems into $$$$$$$

well, yah....plus, they were made for mx setup..

lol, i was playin off the "90% can't adjust a chain" comment. anyone sell a decent yellow chain?

what tire size and rider weight? you'll probably like pro-circuits allot better, too.

soo......how does one adjust the chain? i've been beating on the axle for hours.....do they sell a 1/4 link?

t-6's make more power and have a wider powerband on stock motors, because they are designed for peak efficiency at lower flow rates. you can even port the motor to match the 6's. the t-5's are designed for mid-top pull and peak efficiency at much higher flow rates, such as you get from mid-top ported motors, and strokers. it all depends on how far you are going to go on your build, but right now, the 6's will work better.

x2, probaly too much oil and/or fuel to keep them clean. think of it like a catalitic converter, or deisel scrubber: it needs some heat to burn off deposits. i bet your packing gets loaded up, too. make sure you are jetted for a hot engine, too.

added to my bucket list.......where is that? i'm buildin just for climbs like that.

funny you should bring this up now.........i bought one this winter for like $25 to just check out. plainly put- the geometry is fucked, and i had an issue with it putting far too much side load on the bearings. idk if ther is little race spacers missing bertween the bearings, but i had to back the locknuts off just enough that the rollers would spin. i'm gonna try out a few things to see if i can make mine work when i fly back home in 3 weeks. but anyways, i would use locktite on the damn locknuts. mine came loose and chewed up my new chain a bit. you have to remove the swingarm nut and use that to bolt it on, plus the hole in the frame above it. the chain goes over the top of the top roller, and under the bottom of the bottom roller. you need to remove the chain slidder , or the rollers will not move. you have to knotch the stator cover to clear, and remove the stock bogie wheel. i could not find any install literature on their site, but that is what i found out by trial/error.

sounds like your coolant bottle lines may be backwards. pull them off the bottle and blow through them. one will have a little resistance, and the other free. the one free-flowing goes to the top, and the one with a little pressure goes to the bottom, or you can remove the rad caqp and feel which one blows where the cap goes- that one goes to the bottom. make sure your coolant is in good condition and cap is not rotted. there is a little one in the middle of the cap where the coolant flows back in when it cools.

"stock banshee wires are junk" says who? they seem like perfectly fine solid core wire that lasts quite a while. also- how can you tell the spark went away? i wouldn't assume your way into a an expensive coil setup before confirming the problem. i had my e-brake wire somehow activate last ride when i pulled it off the trailer. just clipped the wire at the cdi and went ridding. as for break-in, get to head retorque point via cycles, like you have already done, and go do some plug chop runs. that is just about the best break-in you can do, but you have to get it to be able to, lol. try the grounds first, then inspect the wiring, and make sure the flywheel isn't coming loose, or overgapped pickup.

wow, that's allot more than i did...and you will feel less power without the compression/timing to burn the higher octane

if one cyl is 5psi or more different, then that indicates a problem in the topend that could be related to the knock

so, after pullin my hair out tryin to get decent info on the sub and port info that i felt comfortable trusting, i reverted back to an old method and designed/built this new box that is highly efficient, and drops low. single 15 and it starts to blurr your vision on a 150d. i'm really pleased, and just figured i'd share before i pass the fuck out. it's a single crossfire bmf xt-15 in a 6.5cu (if i remember) sloted vent box for my '01 tahoe........damn, this thing is loud already...i'll post back more later, especially after i put some real juice to it.........well, here's some pics ....the L7-10 is just sitting on top because i had to take it home and put away...not hooked up.

you know- the one thing that pisses me off is just the attention whorin, like that one kid that flooded the shout all day long with retarded bullshit preventing routing bullshitting while workin on posts. this site is 50/50 chat and threads for me, all at once, so i can't just go to the chatroom and hope someone is waiting there, and post without hassle. it's like that one guy at the party that keeps jumping in your conversations all drunk tryin to start shit- you can usually have fun running him off because something will actually go down....man, i hate it when they run.....but anyways, i'm not here to deal with a shitstick continuously, and it is actually part of my daily life now