AKheathen

http://bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=126528&view=&hl=flywheel&fromsearch=1 it basically revs quicker, but you loose some inerta for takin off

lol, i mean that it's ghetto that you have to do that with vforce........especially because rtv is not compatible with fuels/solvents. they should be made better

wow, that's kinda ghetto.....

well, the porper thing to do is have the case machined to accept a circlip on another bearing

while you are at it, i don't see the idle screws in there. they will need the springs, too........one option that i have on mine is 1/4" hose nipples that screw into the opposite idle screw holes, so you can sync the idle..

take the seat off and show a pic of where the end of the pipe is placed

time........... well, how bad are they cracked? tiny little cracks, just like tires may hold out a little, but nothing is gonna seal up real cracks.

me? i change every 2-10 rides; basically whenever i feel like i should, lol. in general- it all depends on the oil and conditions. atf, should be changes every 2-3 rides, and the others can be 5hrs to 5 rides

the locator pins are just to keep the bearing from spinning, you only need the one bearing to keep the crank from walking. the cases should take the load of keeping everything in place when you bolt it together, and the circlip will be a locator, basically. straitcuts- i wouldn't hesitate rippin the o-ring off and putting the circlip back on, like it's supposed to be

hmm, interesting way to line mice up...........you don't need a new bearing, just pop the o-ring off and put the circlip on.....the o-ring bearings are actually circlip style bearings that someone just put o-rings on...the thing about the tz, though, is that it's better to run the circlip on another bearing to get the sideload off of it

idk if the trinity uses washers to seal, or o-rings in the halfs, but put some sealant on the threads, and make sure the studs aren't chewed up from using a wrench or pliers to intstall them. after a coupele heat cycles, you need to retorque the head

oh, and 190 is actually kinda high. i believe stock is 178* 190 is in the middle of dune. of coarse pipes will shape the power profile of the porting

um, i'm not gonna get into the timings/shape/area, but you will be most likely more than plaesed with a dune port set to work with the pipes. problem is- that the t-6's will not keep up with the flow of a good dune port. woods port gives the best power from down low where you get into technical root climbing and damn near need to stall the engine, but still has the torque to launch up a mound in an instant, which would suit the t-6's pretty good. mx port focuses on a really broad, flat midrange power, dune port comes on strong in the midrange and pulls hard to the top, which is really fun and reflects the banshees' signiature power, but a little close to drag. dune/play still has decent bottom when you need it, but lets the "dune" pull come on less abrupt. dune/drag, is basically a drag port, but with the timings dropped a bit to give you some useable midrange power to play with. as far as "play", well, that is pretty much up to what the builder thinks is most fun. all of theses different categories change a bit from builder to builder, wheras one mans "dune" is closer to another mans "drag" i 2nd wildcard for many reasons, but any sponsor that you really like will get you into a really powerfull set of cylinders. non-sponsors are hit-miss, and you can end up with really chinsey/cracker-jack/cookie-cutter porting. and, as for power- well, rpm=hp, pretty much, but it's a trade-off of drivability.

when you get it sunning, does it spit back allot through the carbs, or 1 carb? have you tried swapping float bowls?

oh, yah, that is one thing about atf, it's a high detergent oil that is compatible, so it makes for a good flush aide. either way, runing the new oil change it after like 1/2-1 hrs ridding then after 1-2 rides, then it should be flushed good.

do you have tors? either way, you back the idle off untill both slidesbottom out in the carbs first thing. then adjust the cables untill the slides move at the same time, and take up any slack at thethumb throttle. then, adjust the idle screws about 1.5 turns in from when they touch the slides, or just start to move them. it should start up to slightly high idle now. turn it down, if needed, the exact amount on both sides and get it warmmed up to ridding temp. the airscrews should be the same, too. once warmmed up, go back and feel the exhaust @ idle. one will probably be firing less, or with differnt pressure, or both. for the side not firing smothly, make a small adjustment on the airscrew on that carb only, and give it about 20 sec and feel it again. adjust the idle screw a tiny bit to make it fire stronger. once that is done, go back and adjust the cable sync again to make the slides move at the same

make sure you get some good plugs, not that champion or autolite crap, those like to break and leak spark. ngk is what you want......the "8"s..............and, weak spark will change the jetting, so fix that first.

well, everybody considers backloading differently, but i just see it as putting a reverse load on the trany. if i'm not mistaken, the biggest difference in a duneable is that the gears are not helical cut, so you can put a backwards load on it and not have it trying to force the fork out. the other form of bacloading is switching the load back and forth frequently. with overrides, the engagement dogs are really far apart so they have less chance of hitting a spot that they won't mesh. because of this, changing load directions lets the gears pick up enough rotating mass and innertia to slam the other side of the dogs really hard. whoop, gotta go.......

torco gp-7 100%syn. premix and gm autotrac II in the tranny.........there's tons of threads

that basket gear will make a gear knock in that condition......

lol, yah, always keep a few spares around. if you are in a pinch, you can clean the plugs by burning all the build-up off with a propane torch.

it could be allot of things. the kicker idler gear, waater pump, basket gear, basket/hub bushings, etc, just open it and check evverything. first- make sure it's not the brake lever or little covers on the pump and middle of the clutch cover.

oh, i just thought of somthing- the pressure plate/hub splines didn't get messed up on install did they? long shot, but the pressure plate could rotate up and catch in a higher spot. that would make both the clutch slip and the pusher/lever loose when it happens

there should be minimal performance change, and as such, minimal to no tuning change. you might need a small adjustment for the new season. one small tid-bit, though- if you need to run reed spacers to make the carbs clear, you cannot put them on the carb side of the reed. the intake surface is needed to keep the block and flange pressed together on the vf3

if you were gettin water in there, then i'm pretty sure that's the problem right there. another thing would be the adjuster not locked down good. pancake bearing is good cheap insurance, too