AKheathen

first things first- what kind of trails are you ridding? fast thrails where you can wind it up and use allot of topend, or tight, technical trails, where bottom end and smooth, precise throttle is key? like woods/mud or whatever else? as far as the carbs go, the stockkers will perform good for up to 80hp, but that is speaking strictly performance/flow......the way they were designed for the banshe is different that your average off-the-shelf mikuni vm......among other things, both good and bad, the biigest concern is moisture. not just getting them soaked with allot of water, but the smalles bit, even morning condensation, or a light mist getting in them will make them run up like you are holding it to almost 1/2 throttle, which is why they suck for trail. you can do a few tricks, like packing the cable retainers and other things with grease, and running outterware with whatever filter setup you choose. when it happens to you, though, you can just pull the choke out to make it come back down. now for the stroker and such....when it comes to a trail bike, low-mid will out perform higher powered mid-high setups in the nitty-gritty. you can have a 90hp dune/drag 4mill, but you may not find room to use it, if you know what i mean. you already have the coolhead, so it would be a matter of getting the spacer plate for a more topend orented 4mill, or cutting the domes for a more midrange torquey pull. when you come up with the funds later, you will end up with cut domes on the ported 4mill anyways. i really don't think you should feel pressured into doing the porting yourself, and for good reason. it really takes allot to port a banshee. one of the things is the willingness to accept if you fuck up your cyls and have to buy another set. also, loads of time to do the reasearch first, and more money than a port job cost in tools just to do it. we are not trying to brainwash anybody into thinking that only rocket scientists can make rockets, but more of a warning, that you are doing it as a major commitment, and for the sake of doing it, not just to save a little. now, on the otherhand, there is cookie-cutter exhaust templets to show you how to shape the exhaust, and some measurements that will let you rough out something that will make more power, but the real gains come from the guy not only sitting down to do the calculations and measurements, but being able to see and know how everything is going to flow and when and how it will all interact through every bit of the cyle. on top of that, the extensive experience to know what works, and what hurts. also, forming the transfers is a major 1-up...... well, i digress.....back to the ORIGIONAL issues.......the economy...the 4mill will suck a bit more fuel, no matter what you do, but tthe higer rpm range you tune it for, the more it is going to suck the fuel down. for that matter, the more you build it up, the more it will use. an ims oversized tank is an option, too, and it holds more than 2x the stock fuel tank..........so figure out the main focus on what you are trying to get for performance, and what budget you have to get it done.

you can replace just the coushins if they are worn, and flip the backing plate to tighten it back up, but it's likely at this time that the fingers on the basket are grooved out, which would just be a waste to do on the coushins. you can drill out the riets and use flathead screws and shallow nuts to put it back together, and if you buy a new oem basket, that is what you would have to do, since they don't come with the gear.

actually, the lead is added as a lubricant,since it is a "dry" fuel, and low lead contains a substitute

go back down on the rear, to like 41or 42. mabey look for some pro-circuits, and/or +2 swinger......i'm pretty similar to you, but with stock gearing and pc's, and it's just a little bit high, but not much. the thing is that the fatties are trying to pull harder than the demand, but you need the lower gearing to keep it in the powerband with your ridding....i'll never go back to a top-mid top pipe as long as i'm riddin the trails, lol. you would be blown away with the difference.

that's not how i see it, but i could be wrong.......the backing plate is suppsed to stay solid against the basket, and even the tension from the wansr won't do anything to save it once the rivets or bolts come loose. the conical washer presses the gear up against the gasket/basket, otherwise the gear will be floping loosely to wear on the plate/basket assy. this way the gear can still rotate against the coushins, but not continuously beat around with every pulse of the crank, just the front/back load.

yah, avgas is some awesome gas, even in 2 strokes, lol. now, this is a prime example of why cr is stressed over psi. 185 on stock, vs 185 on 4mill. the asme thing would be true for 185 on stock porting vs 185 on dune/drag port, for example. so, you are wanting to keep the best midrange, i assume by looking at your avatar, so dropping compression will be the least harmfull, and also allow more overrev. the timing, i think, is a bit more valuable to have. and, as for getting custom domes cut, wildcard is almost 1/2 the price, lol, last i heard

did you try pipe butter? cheap and effective-won't hurt the chrome either. http://tiny.cc/pipebutter

adjust your airscrews and/or needles

because detonation is just the fuel burning uneven and where it shouldn't, like on the surface of the sparkplug and chamber/pistons. too much timing can start thr burn too early and it gets to the surfaces and explodes on them, which shocks the plug loose

by hand, lol.....i used a mapp gas torch and hung them in the garage.....i put the flame to the inside moving from one hoe to the other to keep things even. you can watch and smell the curing as it happens, but have to be carefull not to overheat it too soon.......biggest problem i saw with vht, is that it is really thin when you spray it, and can run easy, so verry many light coats. i think 1 can just barely squeezed out the 2 pipes

light colored grips ar hell.....i work real hard, real often to get the little yellow on mine to stay somewhat yellow, lol.......as for the cyls, go for it....use an engine enamel in high gloss, thick and cured in cycles to be as hard as possible.....spray them with simple green before youwans to remove any oily spots, and it will spray clean. i would definately do the cses while you are at it...mabey a different bright color, like pink, lol. it will definately look sharp and easier to handle than polished. mabey some billet grips will do good. i'm going for yellow and white on my cyls/cases and it will look clean against a flat black frame

also, were you ported? i don't remember on the trapped, i want to say about 10.5:1

try backing the timing off to stock......it should run with 100ll strait. what is your squish set at?

i still wouldn't do it.......how about widening it on the bottom more, and keeping a steeper roof angle? look at the angles on the sides if you go that far.....not gaining much

um, you need to tell us the octane you are running and elevation. i'm sure it's detonating, unless your plug threats are complete toast, which would likely strip when you put the plugs in, lol.......but, if you are sure it's not deto, then put some plug locks on ther untill the next rebuild, which won't be long

can you figure shipping to 99516 anchorage, ak? will it fit in a flat rate?

927 has an additive to prevent separation in cold temps, and with higher sg fuels....i run torco 100%syn. and tested it past -30f, as well with avgas and long storage. no issues here.

anyone have one that has a raised fin design, like cooling finns, or know where to get one? i may just go with a black trinity, or teardrop as alt. but i figured i'd check anyways

why would you want to save a quarter? coins are annoying to cary around

what pipes are you running, and is the timing stock? you can do it with the .050" squish, stock timing, and mid or mid-top pipes, but you cannot go lean at all, and don't run old gas

shutup you, lol seriously, though, they are right that it is a big bluprining process, that you need to get just right bu pressing it into place, then welding it just right, which isn't just one of those things you can "wing" or even get right on the first try, even with someone teaching you most likely......i'm sure i can fab the jigs and get mine done, but it would be a huge ordeal, and then i don't know if they will come out right, so i'm sending them out to get done by an experienced pro

74%?!?!?....whoa buddy....i really don't think the pipes you are gonna put on there will even utilize that much extra flow...i could be wrong, but i really don't think you will see any gain going that far, and it will really risk ring snagging. i think i remember you being just a cunthair over on your width anyways.....around that point, liniar length really starts to increase radial distance on the rings as the angle of the side of the port increases. i'd hate to see that thing not make it past break-in. remember what i mentioned in earlier pm's too.

^^^^^^^this guy is doing his right now......and goin on for quite some time, like the first set should, lol......you have to buy a couple books around $100 each, and read them a few times at least, just to know how to do some calculations and a little insight into making some cuts, but it really take some BANSEE cyl porting knowlege/experience to make good power, and <1mm off cut, some wrong angles, or incorrect area will throw your shit off

tm 39's i believe....click the link in his sig to see the full build

"worm holes" "boost ports" "boysen ports" etc, yah it's been done allot, but, as mentioned, welding is needed to make tham of any substantial size. otherwise, you have to be really carefull, and make them of a small diameter