AKheathen

the rz head is quite a bit larger than stock and coolheads, to comphensate for the cyls. like i said- you don't need the whole rz electrical, if you can't get it, but it will have everything there, if you do....i would absolutely love an rz for 150, lol

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found it in repairs/mods, lol http://bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=89992&view=&hl=silencers&fromsearch=1

lol, yah, allot transfers back and forth...that's just how they come for streetbikes...i'm ready to start coughin, and i won't kick your nutz then....you can do that yourself...... i would buy a rz for that price, i a heartbeat....get the servos, if you can.....they will be needed.....and then you are going to need a cdi that can controll them. the dyna fs works

lol, the t-6's are abit mis-understood........ok, they may not work well with a std mid-top dune port, but that is because that is not what kind of pipe they are.....they are a "wide band" pipe, that increases efficiency with near stock flow, but you will see plenty gains porting to the pipe on stock stroke, and pushing it with 4mill, but they will hang.....heads, reads and i would stay 30mm-under on the carbs, but 33's will work...sounds like you already have a good plan, so go to town on what you want, and everything will be fine, just remember what kind of pipe it is when it comes to porting.......it won't like "drag" port too much, lol

there is a thread somewhenre just about cutting fmf silencers, by a bucnh of peeps

sccuff the outside of the carbs with scotch-brite, or sandpaper to get a rough surfface to stick to...and make sure it's not all oily.... i ndidn't have aproblem, either...

i'm assuming that with the different coils, you tried different caps (boots)?.......and you get ac output to the coil? if it's consistant, than it should be enough to spark.....did you have the other plug installed/connected when you checked one for spark? try backing the pickup off a cunthair to spec...i use a sparkplug box.. did you use the proper puller to remove the flywheel? the one that screws in..

it has pwervalves, and taller, beefed gearing...and a couple other things, but basically a bansee motor. more top and lowend.....if you want"radical" timing, just go with some cheetah pv cyls, which add some mid-low to a drag port, but have larger transfers to accomidate....imho, it's a wase of good cylinders to drag port an rz, but they make for awesome trail cyls from the get-go

...i want to say it's normally between .055" and .060' with stock everything

that kinda sounds like something's loose in your hub/basket assy. was there any play when you were assembling it before putting the discs in? other than that, yah, some need the stock adjuster in there......did you put the ball back in it?

my 12bolt has 2 peices, not counting the plexi, lol

funny, i can't find it, not to say their site doesn't take rocket science to navigate, lol........they used to have one, but mabey dd has the 12bolt cover peices, and you can machine your cover for that, i believe

there ya go now, lol.....and just a little tid-bit...the plate is actually 1.5mm, and "shiney" is bad...you wnt a machined surface or similar for sealing...like "grip' for the gaskets. for killer woods, like you are thinkin, the best thing would be a sleve/welded cyl to re-port. i would personally chose something other than gnarley, too....based on real aplication needs.....on another note, i have used a protractor before to get a rough estimate on the stock porting for the "pocket bike" 50cc in my daughters' little quad, lol...then i made my first "failure" pipe that still performed, but not as great as i wanted......curious on how you factoed everything to leave your head bone stock with a 1mm plate.......stock deck and head clearance with the gaskets is only about 060" if i'm not mistaken, so you take the 1mmstroke with the plate, and .040 out of the head to leave you with .020 squish, and i guess you will use a stock, plus 015-020 extra base gasket?

i just saw it by going through alfies toybox, lol...back when he had the lockup sale goin on.....i'll go check

only thing i can think is the crank is a custom make......if the rods say 29L then that is yamaha rods...if it needs a plate, and domes, then i'll bet it's more than 4mill, shortrod, and all custom. measure the stroke, and rod length, that's about all you can do at this point, imo

umm.....modquad sells the diy kit that uses your cut stock cover, lol........fairly cheap

actuall, if you still have the coolant catch bottle hooked up and plumbed, that is where the end of the hose is....a few things to make sure- the hose going to the radiator from the catch is hooked to pull from the bottom of the catch, take your cap of and start it.....you should see the coolant moving in the radiator, and it shouldn't spit out more than what may vibrate out at first....does the exhaust smell sweet? white smoke?.....and one of the biggest things i stress is the condition of your coolant....if you don't know, can't test, or it smells fishy, replace it with a 50/50-60/40 mixture of fresh stuff, and make sure to flush the remaining old stuff out of the bottom of the jugs by tipping it on both sides when the plugs are out.......the coolant condition/quality makes a huge difference in overheating.....

lol, you ever hear the gear knock on a cat engine? a big tip on the billet basket- use the stock backing plate whenever possible. the stock rivets didn't appear to be "cast" in on my stock basket....they appear to be dropped in, them bucked or pressed on the back side.....i remember hearing from people, that they bought the basket, and it didn't come with a gear, but that was from the dealer....if anyone's interested, i did a writup pinned @ the top of repairs/mods

ridding too hard, lol...does the glue stay in the grips? try roughing the bars up with coarse sandpaper...i have heard hirspray trick, and i just taped up the bars before sliding the grips on

if you are gonna have it built, make sure the flywheel seat is good, or get it resurfaced, too.....usually a loose/improperly seated, or bent flywheel leads to crank separation, from what i've seen.

ok, i'll hit this in a few steps.....first, all this talk about "hp" and "amount of work @ given rpm".....let's disect that real quick.....hp, is actually torque x rpm (just stating the obvious for perspective) and what is needed is decent amount of torque across a wide range. with the no-spacer timings, the will definately be allot more torque, and start sooner, but adversely, taper off sooner, as well....with the "radical" timings, it will be less torque, but a t a higher rate (rpm) which translates into "hp" #'s that may matter most in drag, dune, and anywhere you are lookin to "do the most work" in a given time. when you are out in the trails, you are looking to move 4-500lbs at different rates of force, more than distance/time..... ok, now for the timings setup.....one thing i have been stressin in the porting posts is getting the blow-down and transfer time-area right, as well as angles. simply out, the spacer leaves allot less to work with, and significantly increases the minimum rpm orientation on the porting, ads crankcase volume, which reduces "stuffing" and concequently less dynamic compression and power. it will also slightly increase signal delay to transfer/intake. the plate is also another weak point that will increase the likelyhood of movement and/or leaks......if you are gonna port, the plate is a huge waste of time, like throwing a lockup on a stock bike..... your "plan" may work to do a shade-tree job that will pull a bit, but not as good as just doin it right. mikecheif- the search feature, and google are your best freinds.........you should read a.gbell, and 2stroke tuners' handbook first...not eveything in them is literal, or applies to banshee, but you will get 100x the idea of how 2 stroke flow, etc works. links to the books are pinned at the top of repais and mods.... bigblock- i was suggesting to make a trade for different pipes, as an idea....

good news for you....dare i say- those e-spakin days are not the satandard currently. you can have close to what you are looking for and not have to clutch the shit out of it anymore. the stroker would be an great thing to do, and just making it run for now with cut domes will put a smile on your face. the port timings will drop to a lower rpm power range than stock, and you can get away with a 4mill correction port job for likely allot cheaper, and you won't have to rebuild with new pistons/bore at that time either...just a hone/ring job. do yourself a huge favor and trade off those t-5's for a more "woods" suited pipe. imo, the pro circuits will be the most fun, and net the most torque/power in it's class by far, but they are not the most efficient woods pipe. the t-6, ptr mids, mabey sst and gnarley are good options, with the t-6 being the most efficient, and not just in terms of economy, but utilizing the lower flow rates. stay away from anything 2-1, though, as it's a gimmic, but that is my opinion, and many who run a 2-1 carb or pipe will defend it. you can do some reasearch on this site and decide yourself, but that is all i have seen, and there have been many with info to show it. as for the water issue- like i said, some grease where the cable goes in, and threads, longer bowl vents, make sure the choke tube and boots are still healthy, and run your airbox with a powerlid and outterware. that's what i could think of, but it may still have the condensation issue overnight, and you can just work the choke on-off untill the moisture steams off from engine heat. advanced timing and boysen power reeds will do you some good for torque, and controll. btw, i shread the 4pokes in the woods....

i don't think you see a major problem here.......you are trying to give advice of an inefficient dune-drag diy port job to a guy that neither expressed interest in doing so, nor trying to gain peak power. the o.p. is looking for an efficient trail setup, and even expressed concerned that it may be too much power. your intentions are good, just not tentative enough in taking perspective of what's going on.