AKheathen

yah, i was counting on it being a shift tower, as it's a fullsize ford, not a honda, lol. it can hit the dashboard, etc, and even throw it's self out with a worn out shift tower, from flopin around

sounds like you probably bent the shiftfork already. which means, the dogs are likely rounded, too. you might get away with just a new fork....

soo.....when your name shows up yellow, and your group is yellow.......you think that everyone else is gay like you?

can't really tell what the pic shows, but, you are more worried about piston sidewall scratches. that's just oil there, which you should find everywhere if you are mixing right. take a look at the exhaust side, where you can see the edge of the crown. if there was a plugged jet and it ran lean, then you would see some melting on the piston at the port. likely, just plugged jets, though.

yah, pipes are the best bolt-on you can do to a stock motor, but going by the title, the biggest gains for the money is a $30 timing plate. unless, of coarse, you pick up some good pipes for dirt cheap, lol. and that happens all the time, if you are not really picky about cosmetics.

x2, i'd do 18, or 19's with advanced timing for an unported 20 over

there is a link pinned at the top...........oh, and i've been looking for a used 90* tool for the past year

well, you are going to get 100 different answers from 80 different people, based on what they have, and have seen them used on and for. i want to say- those pro-circuits are about the best, most maliable all-around power profile. that being said- they do actually make a few different "all-around" pipes, and which is better all depends on the setup and use. specifically, the t-6 and sst, but the problem is that they are limited by flow capability. which means that you will be looking at differnt pipes for differnt profile output, depending on the biuld. for instance- the pro-circuit doesn't have the most off-idle, and tons of bottom end on a stock bike, but you start with porting, and stroke, and overall, more flow, it can outpull a woods pipe and such on the bottom, have killer mid, and still pull all the way up and still overrev. on the otherhand, if you really need a super smoothe bottom end and mid-top pull on a stock topend, and no plans to build bigger, then t-6 can be the best bet, you wanna port, sst, etc, etc, it really comes down to what you are going to build, how you are going to use it, and what you want it to feel like- the fun factor, lol

how is it above and below 330? does it sputter, bog, fall flat? check your pickup gap clearance, grounds, coil, caps, reeds, etc. it sounds like it's probably electrical or reeds. what fuel do you run?

oh, hahq, yah, you should be measuring at the end, by the cyl wall, where it is the tightest.

if i had that much dust get in there, i'd be tearing everything down from the filter, to the reeds. you can see how much scorring is on your pistons with the reeds out. get the jets and little orifaces good, and wipe down all surfaces, including removing the reed pedals

what fuel, elevation and rpm setup? you may see more topend with less compression, or you can see more power if you are running too much octane, or you may just be where you need to be.

how the hell did that happen?you gained about .005 ruling out piston rock? there is something weird there......

yup, best place is where the sensor is not getting heat from the pipes, too. best place is right behind the steering stem.

x2, allot of new guys mistake aftermarket pipes, and any intake/airbox/filter change as a relivant jetting mod. if all you have is a boost bottle, it will want a larger pilot, but a stock piped bike will need anywhere up to 240, provided everything stock is still there all the way from the snorkel to the silencers

yah, there are plenty of people that may need the forrestry, or quieter silencers out there. possibly someone will trade for power cores, or you can put toomey silencers on there, there's no real differnce between toomey silencers, as far as 4-5-6, etc...

lol, mine kinda worked when it was cold, since the rubber was stiff enough to hold some. the way i saw it, though, was that when the little metal clip wears out under the rubber boot, the seals and shaft/body are probably worn out, too, so i just replaced it, rather than make a new wire clip.

lol, i would only start to worry about it when it gets a bit over .015" or even more variation in piston rock. that being said- throw those #'s out the door and go measure it correctly over the piston pins. lined up left and right of the cyls, all the way against the side of the cyl. you will probably find .035"-.040" squish as your actuall measurement. in the future, if you ever want to measure piston rock, you measure all 4, then subtract (right + left) from (front+rear) for total rock. for one-way rock- subtract (r+l)/2 from either front, or rear.

lol......well, from what i see, normally, spark issue will be more rpm specific. it will either not work great at lower rpm's and ba hard to start, or have topend issues, and such. being more throttle specific, i would guess the left carb has a fuel issue, loading it up below 1/2 throttle, like a bad float or needle/seat, plugged airjet, etc. i would start with fresh plugs, and clean out the carbs and check float adjustment. does the draintube leak? i also had put one together with a really wide gap before, and it was rough on startup, idle, and low rpm. tad flat on top, if i remember.... i'd bet the flames are nothing more than excess fuel in the pipes igniting. once you fix the problem, i'd repack the silencers, too.

drain the oil, remove one bolt at a time, and clean it, and the hole with brake cleaner, or anything not leaving a residue, blow it out, and put sealant on the bolt shaft/head, and torque it down. only 1 at a time, though.

yes, that suckker should be off already, lol. i thought you were gonna head over to what'shisface and put new o-rings in there

you want it to go to the upper rad. hose. the lower rad. hose feeds the cooled coolant into the engine.

so, i take it they are stock carbs? 260 is pretty lean. i'd immagine you around 360, but it all depends on elevation, temps, fuel. wonder what tore up the inside like that so bad. did you have a boost bottle on there? either way, it needs to ba replaced

if the wires melted and shorted on the stinger, they are probably a bit too cooked. are they black inside? also, could've done damage to the cdi, or stator.

it's happened plenty of times before. it pretty much comes from the slide previously being inserted wrong, and tightening the cap. you can try jb-weld or something, but it might not hold, and then you could have jbweld sucked throut the cyls. i would just replace the carb body. and, to answet your q- they are inserted tightly from the outside of the carb, and then the outter shoulder is pinch/pressed. you can see it when you look. now, if it had just worked back to the outside of the carb, and can go in tightly, then mabey you can glue it back in with a thin film, then re-press the shoulder, mabey.