AKheathen

check with the tire shop to see what they mix the tire soap at.....it's a long shop, but i've seen 100%murphy's used before, rather than deluted. with a nice stiff tire, try the following..... first, wash and scuff the bead of the rim with scotch-brite. you want to use the least amount of soap as possible..mostly water, just enough to break tension/friction. seat the bead, and drop the pressure down....pound the tire with a mallet, or 3-4# sledgeon the sidewall with outward strokes, then deflate and air back up to max, and let it out to what you want.........double seating is a verry common practice in the tire industry.....but the hammer thing is something i did and watched it seat around the rim further when i put mine on. i just had them mount/dismount at the shop. if it spins off again, hit it with some brake clean around the bead and seat again...this will temporarily soften the bead and make it stick...

haha, those are genuine banshee-boys ported cages..."flow so much they eat the air", hahaha, seroiusly, the guy is a joke....air should not flow, or even be in that area. ....just some pics of more what it should look like......note that the center, near the bolt holes shouldn't be as hogged as i made them...that can just be radiused nicely

exactly which pistons were they?

lol, i was hoping to talk about the plan on the servals, not the whompus.........what's your plans jeff?

remove the rubber seals, dump them in a bucket of diesel and get to cleaning.......... blow them out with compressed air, and drench everything in the oil that will be run in it. for example, you want to liberally lube the crank bearings and center seal in premix oil and trans in trans oil..... after that, you can clean wnat should be dry for assembly, and whatever dripping oil and assemble..

ahh, well, ok. i can tell you theat the biggest problem with yfz arms is the upper and shock clearance, keeping the geometry messed up.....to run a lower that fixes, i think you would end up with the wheels further back than stock, instead of forward

well, there has inevitably been a lot of talk about the serval cylinders, leading to ideas of modifying even further for more bottom end. well, i figure this is a nice technical discussion that should be talked about further, without overruning the serval thread. let's hear those ideas and opinions about what you would like to do, what you are going to do, and all the ins and outs of it........have fun

sweet, keep us posted

unfortunately, i don't have a mill, but i do work on $45k diffs and power deviders quite often........there are mainly 2 modles with minor revisions. when it comes to the engagement dogs, the 6 degree is enough to make a huge difference in reliability. the strait cut dogs are the only ones that have a tendencey to round and sheer if there is any wear on the fork shoes, or slide chanel.......the 6 degree only wears the chanel and shoes, otherwise not ever needing replacement...even with the operator "oops"es...

my bump, my bump, my lovely lady bumps

if you cannot at least get avgas from the airport, then i hate to say, that you need to decrease compression

well, one trend i keep seeing is the poer dropping off between 5-6k, but pretty linear torque from about 7-10k........omho, that's still kinda top-end torque motor...great for dune and even mx, but i think the idea of setting up 7 or 10 mill with cut domes can get a serval closer to what i'm interested. 1.5mm is a big change in duration..... i think some adjustment can get a set into a real torquey woods curve, building great linear power from under 5 k, and great off-idle comparatively. so, just as cubs have been cut down to make something similar to a serval, mabey a serval can be cut down, or port timings otherwise manipulated by stroke......i don't think the true nature of low-end is best served without the increased stroke.....so that's why i would do it.....

well, if you are gonna spend the money to crack check, you might as well buy another one...they are a dime-a-dozen

.......wow.............. sending pm....

they should fit up just fine.........as far as i've known- toomy silencers fit on toomy pipes, period.....they even work on other head pipes, like fmf's

were the heat cycles up to complete operating temp, almost over-heating? 2 hot cycles, and complete cool-downs, like 2-3 hours cooling off, and a few nuts should be just about finger tight.....some have used that copper spray, but i never have....

actally, many like fouledout421 uses them in every build they are available. i even bought a set for my 4mill build........they are very good piston

here you go...... http://bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=137560&st=0&gopid=1187872entry1187872 ....just wrote one up..

also, notice, you can use a spark-plug box flap to set the gap.........here is also what happens when it starts raining, and you get in too much of a rush to find the loc-tite............ .......and when i get drunk and the guy we bring for entertainment passes out first........ note- he was oblivoius for like 4-5 hours, and didn't get the penis on his face..........freakin hillarious

ok, well since the previous info on it seems mia- i'll do a write-up now...... What we have going on today is simply modifying the stock timing plate for adustment as high as +5.5.... the exact adjustments are as follows- in the middle of the mounting screw holes, 1mm=1.034 degrees on the outter edge of the plate, near the mount screwholes, 1mm=1.136 degrees to advance- turn the plate clockwise now on to the fun stuff........first thing you will need is the following burr bits- 1/4" drum bit (not sure exact name) 3/8" drum bit. (flat non-cutting end unless you are using a mill setup) notice that you need cutting oil, or similar......WD-40 works fine, and you want to keep the bit soaked with it you can use a regular 1/4 air die grinder, but you can get by with a drill if air is not available. and, a real valuable tool for breaking the screws loose is an impact driver shown used here. they are cheap, like $12, but work erry effective. just apply some twisting pressure and smack with a hammer. Basic removal install is outlined in savage420's writeup, but you need to use the proper tool on the flywheel, or you will damage it. First thing you want to do, once you have your work area set up and plate clamped, is cut the screw head mounting surface couter-clockwise (to the right if you are looking at the bottom of the plate, and to the left looking at the top) you want to apply some downward pressure and drag it an a slight angle, as it will tend to want to creep up and make the material higher as you go. start with the one next to the pick-up coil mount, as this will set the max your adjustment can be, and the other 2 holes do not need more cutting than that one. Then, move on to the next 2...... next, move to the 1/4" bit, and drag the holes the same direction. it will take some feel to get used to cutting only in the desired direction without chatter and wander. you are basically controlled fighting what the bit wants to do, just have to figur out which angle to apply the pressure to make it cut the right direction. again, start with the same hole near the pick-up, since there is the most meat/structure in that area, in case you mess up. You want your cuts to be radial with the curve of the plate, not just strait, or it will want to bind on the screws. keep a mount screw near by to test fit that you don't go further than needed. you only need to go as far as will allow the head of the screw, plus socket, will fit. continue with the other 2 holes, once again. Ok, now test-fit it on the bike, and make a scribe mark at stock location if you wish, and use the calculations provided, if you want further degree marks. if you atre like me, and want to purdy things up even if only you can see them, then here's some fun pics........remember, you want to keep raw metal where the stator mounts to the plte for good ground, as well as where it presses against the the cases under/beside the screw holes. a file works good to dress these areas up....also, verry light coats, and only as many as needed on the flywheel, and keep the taper, pick-up node, and where the nut and puller goes in clear of paint. the pick-up can be cleaned after drying. REMEMBER TO USE LOC-TITE ON THE NUT another reason is to keep rust and corrosion down. so here you go- painting stages, and mounting pics.....

lol, yah, the gears are pretty hard.......i noticed the roostfest site is down for rebuild, too....i think that may be where a large portion of the info was.........so, no back-cutting? when i cut, i'm going with 6 degree back-cut on the dogs, which is just enough to keep it fully engaged, but you can still push it out. i was told that some overrides use a pretty steep cut on the dogs, but then it's pretty much locked in. steep cuts do make sure it goes all the way in everytime o n an override, though. i don't know how they are cutting it full width, though in the windows......

hahahahahahahaha...good shit right there

can you get a hold of av gas? 100LL works awesome

either way, you are going to need to split the cases. first thing to do is put it in first and see what it's doing. it's likely just a shift fork bent

lol, that's just the plate install......ok, here's the thing- i have tons of pics to do a write-up, but gotta get to an appointment, so i'll post up later.....basically you need a couple burr bits (3/8 and 1/4" drum)