AKheathen

see if nyuk or someone has a nice $10 mylar case saver, and a used coolhead with domes in whatever size you want.....might even be able to find a timing plate, too........there is some good deals out there. you can definately do all 3 for $200......coolhead = power, and case saver=protection. the price depends on the deal you come by, and/or if you have to have new. you can still save up for porting. idk, it really depends on what your financial lifestyle looks like

yes, you have 2 options, you can port for stock stroke, and pray you are too scared of power, and it will suffice, or port it for drag when you want to go 4mill.......which you probably will, or sell the cylinders for a little back, and buy some virgins to be ported for the 4mill. that's option 1, and what you will deal with later. basically you will probably be not happy, or spend the most down the road. option 2- go 4mill now, and enjoy. one way to get by with going 4mill, is start by buying the crank. if you want it in now, you can do the ghetto kit (which really is ghetto and nets you verry little power) they sell the "stroker kit" for good deals, and it would be a start if the wife isn't keen on doing it right. then you can go in stages, or finish it right at once later. best thing to do is coolhead with recessed domes, good 4mill crank with extra welds done by a bulder, 4mill porting, clutch upgrade. you can collect the parts and send them all of at once to get done. you can even save money by getting your head cut and re-chambered to match, and runing hd springs on pretty much any clutch that doesn't use the stock steeles. best thing, though, is just have a builder set you up good right now, but i suppose that depends on the misses

maybe the radiator cap needs a new unit under it

gm auto track II..........and, while we are at it- does a boost bottle really hold fuel for an extra shot of power?

i had a dinged up chamber when i bought mine.......no amount of fine tuning and syncing could get rid of the shake and vigorous vibration.....runs smooth as ever with the 20cc domes in a coolhead........some nicks are ok, but deep gouges will give you a compression imbalance, even if it pumps out the same kicking compression on both sides....just my opinion

correction- it bolts to the pressure plate, except an undercover slingshot, which does replace the pressure plate. you can still see the stock pp in the pics, i even enameled mine to stand out...

i think there was even a youtube vid on it. another thought- whay not just go heims?.... you can get them the same, or cheaper, plus you don't have to buy bungs if you can make the longer bungs yourself......

also, if you messed around with the carbs/airbox, etc, then you could have unplugged the yellow, or black wire there......simple check

...oh., and there actually is a timing mark on the flywheel and case, but that being off would be more-so in the cdi, or pick-up/plate not lined up to stock. however, that would effect both sides, so, you can toss that idea out.

also, the lockup spins with the trans, not the engine, so it never works when you launch....even stops spinning when you pull the clutch. this works good, though, since you can set the initial slip 2with spring pressure and get more traction. in the trails, and technical hill-climbs, you can also use this, and the weight settings, to slip the clutch and not jar it so bad, which can break traction, or grab and pop the front up...both of which are bad on a climb

800phelps has a head for you at a real good deal....buy it, buy a gasket, put it on in the right sequence, JET IT RIGHT, retorque the head and have fun for a couple years like that.... oh, and get rid of that head you broke....it will never work! period.....it's a paper weight, or something to hang in your garage/room, whatever, but it is no longer a viable engine part.

it's not always the rs. there are several out there running good, but the story-line points to it as one of the most likely scenarios...check the jetting, and if it's rpm specific, look into your plug caps. does it clean out after, or with different throttle?

x2. dd lock-up with stock trans, & shift shaft mod. works great in the woods/trail, and hillshooting. you can adjust them, too

very first thing that comes to mind, is the rs stator got cooked, and making weak spark. i would check that you have good, strong, blue spark, and see what the plugs are telling you. ohm things out (rs has it's own ohms readings, btw) weak spark can present like rich jetting, too. if it ran good with the same conditions and same jetting before, i would start there. also, do a compression test and see if you lost some from the detonation...

well, you already sound rich for stock pipes, but i wouldn't think you need bigger than 27.5 pilot. just, adjust the airscrews so it runs good when it's at operating temp. if it wants less than 1/2 turn, go bigger, and if it wants more then 2.5 turns from seated, go smaller..... try 280 mains. they go in increments of 10...... if you can, do aplug chop at 15f, and make sure it's good, and not lean...mabey a tad rich is good. that should be good for -10......

well, if the crank is, indeed, out of phase, it would be the right(clutch side) one out of time. start with adjusting your flywheel gap on both nodes, and check the coil-frame grounding for rust. then, the plug caps, and make sure there is good ground between the harness, frame, engine, and coil. rs are junk pretty often, so that new stator could be a problem, too, and i would never trust a rs flywheel.

........um.....not a virus......

first thing that jumps out at me is that the term "stroker piston" falls in the same category as "pre-detonation" ........terms that someone made up. incorrect, but widely used. (unless someone is making a piston with 7mm offset or the 4mill lr crank, rater than 5mm) that being said...after looking at that link, they are hotrods long rod pistons, sold by taboo toys, as spidy mentioned.

hmm, that's not how i do it.............. it should look a little more like these cyls.... http://tiny.cc/woods-port-421

i drilled the rivets out with, 1/4" bit, i think......came off like butter

is it running at a good idle when you check the timing? it has to be under like 2200rpm to hit the mark properly, and will be off if you adjust the plate. also, if you have a rs flywheel, too, then that can be to blame. those are like russian roulette with rs. also, if you didn't use the yamaha style puller, or dropped it or something, it can be damaged. now, about the "dead cylinder" are you sure it's the dead cylinder you are pulling, and not that the other side is loading with fuel, or separated oil? when everything is correct, it will run on either cylinder by itself, with the other side completely disconnected. the way it works, is the secondary winding is wound from one plug wire, to the other, but it has a common connection point in the middle of the winding, which is in contact with the coil mounting. so, when you pull 1 wire, no matter which, spark slightly decreases strength, but it should still spark good none-the less. at this point, i would start ohming out the coil and ground system. key things to look at, aside from ohming the stator and coil- the frame and engine grounds. the engine ground is the cable retainer on the back of the timing plate, which connects to the harness with the black bullet connector coming off the stator, next to the yellow. the frame ground is back by the voltage regulator, near the cdi, and the coil mounting.......

beluga?

no spark at all? and you ohmed it all out? also, check the flywheel magenets....they should be 12 evenly spaced, if you slide a screw-driver on the inside

3 reasons i'm against nicasil....- it's 3-4x as much to repair. yes, you loose bores. and, i was told how a coolant leak can blast the plating off. i know it definately has it's advantages, but running cylinders outside drag-type use, and normal level of attention put into such machines, sleved cylinders are the best option, imho. most of the time, any kind of failure can be repaired by anywhere from simple bore, to re-sleve. usually, that's like $100-$200 at worst, and free, at best... about the 7mill, i was hoping to be able to see less durration with 4mill cyls.....oh, well. and, that +3 blow-down is going to narrow the powerband a bit, given the widths remain to keeping relative time/area. however, the extra stroke and trapped compression will make up for that on the lower side, but power should increase in the top-mid and up. correct me if i'm off, but that's what i see happening.