AKheathen

you can silver solder it (metal must be perfectly clean first) then it would need to be filed smooth (carefully, not to scratch the chrome) and polish sanded/buffed......it will all but dissapear, and not be noticable to anyone not looking for it (done right)

tip it on the side, and use WD-40, non-aerosol...........the best steel protectant fluid out......

just an educated guess, but i believe ptr mids would just choke it down..... on another note... thank you for the work on these cyls. just found out they are coming in all different stroke combinations, not sure about the bores, though. we've been talking and hoping it would happen soon. never expected to hear about it so soon, though anyways, i do have one question....... would it be possible to get a set un-plated? i know i'm not the only one that gets realy turned off by the nicasil plating. and, if it could save on manufacturing costs, and maybe pass a litte savings on, then we could sleeve it. i had, and still have cash-in-hand, but decided not to impulse-buy once i thought about it.

do they get soft after sitting, or gradually as you ride? did you just replace the pads? how is the rod adjustment?

well, they come with a cheesey bar clamp, but i'm not sure that would last long on a huffy, much less trail riding. the bast thing is a bar clamp mount, sold separately. there might be visibility issues, if you have a bar pad, but it does have light mounts, i believe

well.........i'm not gonna have a tranny anywhere near done any time soon, but i'm sending a couple cranks out to get rebuilt.....how soon are you lookin to do it, and how much room? you think coated pistons would go good with a crank?

you sure the caliper is not damp? try cleaning everything with brake cleaner after bleeding...

start with 280mains, 27.5 pilot, and stock needle 1 clip rich. (2nd from point) if you try the lit needle, then same setting, or 3rd from point. 1.5 turns on the airscrew to start, then adjust when hot

there was a great many years between riding quads, where i just rode sleds..........they have tach, and spedometer.......yah, you are not staring at it, but you do look at certain times, and it's nice to correlate feel with what's actually going on. plus, you can utilize shift light, and, i believe, just hook the tach to an aftermarket cdi with tach out, like the dyna fs..... when i get around to installing mine, i'll let ya know...

sweet.....good luck, and make sure it's not lean. best way to tell without a plug chop, is in 5-6. if it breaks up a little near wot, then it's rich, and if it seems to drop flat at wot, but pick up a little as you back out of it, then it's lean. the goal is to ba bale to just jet by feel, so you know if it changes durring a ride, and you don't melt down one day, but doing plug chops is one of the best learning tools. it will even help you feel the needle. give a thought to the mix ratio you are using.......it shouldn't do harm running that rich, but it will have a greater effect on viscosity and separation as the ambient temps get cooler..

yah, that 2nd pic is the same image right out of the yamaha e-book i have. it is an older manual(pre-95), but i don't think they ever changed the curve from 87-present....... now, +4 is not really the max, it's just the most popular setting. the max timing is all relative to compression, both in ratio, and dynamic (in correlatoin to rpm) so, given you have 20cc domes, you are already close with compression. the bore size is going to make a large difference here. so, i cannot tell you really where would be best to advance/retard without knowing the following, which is still a best estimate. mainly pump fuel is unreliable, at best of times... bore size, elevation, pipes, rpm@pv opening....i'm sure someone with more rz tuning knowledge can jump in with first-hand curve experience..

yah, and polaris only had 4 keys, and you even knew which key to use if you knew where to look, and that didn't matter since it only takes unpluging 1 wire to make 90%run, but that's the difference between in the know, and figuring it out yourself, and being a new guy with a few posts only interested in the one task. (joy-rider vs. pro).......2 years ago, there would have been a holy inquisition before just handing the info over to a new member....

i have a right virgin cyl, but it has some deep scratching, so it's gonna need to go out to somewhere over 65mm.......$75 shipped, if interested

welcome to the site.....most common cause of this problem is the shift shaft jumped off the star pegs. it's usually caused by worn shaft end, or clutch cover....

you have a local builder you use???....and local riding temps are 30f to -15f, untill spring....lower than -30f if you have real alaskan blood

it was just somone's idea to run longer arms for cheap on a banshee.......really, if you are gonna do the frame, then might as well run something other than stock 450 arms.........that is the reason i want a pair to stage and measure....i was able to get a few measurements on a mounted set in washington this summer, but not ones in proper orientation......and you are right, the caster is way off...somewhere between 12-15 degrees, if i remember.....which is rediculous. camber is within reason, though.

i know it'll probably be more than i care to spend, but how much for the straits, and what ratio?

i always hear the only difference between the banshee left carb, and blaster carb is the choke cross-over tube, which you can cap......mabey takes a different size choke jet..........if he is looking just for a stocker, and not the 28 offered in the previous post, i'd be willing to buy that one, and sell mine, that's currently on the mint running blaster...

pics?

the timing curve you want will aslo depend on your setup, (porting/compression included) imho, curve #1 looks like the best, especially for pv'd motors. on a non pv'd it looks like you could push the compression/fuel limits

lol, yah, i was gonna suggest welding. i'd still mesh reinforce it from the back. you ca use heat to inlay and hide it, if you use metal. did you v-channel the union and fill-weld, or do a flat butt-union and blend-weld that way?

yah, 3rd.....make sure to check all the other gears for colladeral damage, especially that corresponding slider, and find the missing tooth.....and make sure to get the gear windows cut to match the override....

wow, forgot to hit post, hahaha

make sure the pressure plate is all the way on. if it's not clamping the discs, pull it off and turn it one bolt hole and try again. also, make sure you didn't loose the ball. as for the adjustment, you basically want 1/8"-1/4" play in the lever(not counting the pressure from the spring on the case) 1/4" gives you the most time between when you have to open the cover and adjust again. wjen you adjust the cable, make sure it has no pressure on the clutch, or it will smoke it...

didn't you have a thread about that like last month? you ever figure if the domes are stroker domes, or not?