BenBB

At worst it wouldn't perform to it's full potential. If that's what you got I'd just run 'em.

Don't forget to pry the inner seals off the bearings so the grease can get to the rollers...

Stock gearing is 14/41, at least on '90 or '91 and up Banshees. Like Leadfoot350 said, try going to a 13-tooth front and see what you think, it should let you start off in 2nd gear and get to use all 6 gears, if you need a little more you can try going smaller on the rear a tooth or two, or if it's geared too short you can try the 14 with a smaller rear (down 1 on front is roughly the same as 3 up on the rear). The reeds and timing should be noticable, but not like a drastic change...every little bit helps tho.

16/39 is almost as tall as 17/41, one tooth higher on the front is roughly equal to three less on the rear. I agree with sredish, you'll just hafta try different combinations to get you where you want to be...

I agree with Big Blue, once I pried my eyes off his avatar. I removed the whole box to drill the two bolt holes but it may not be entirely necessary. I kept the lid without the snorkel until I got pipes and now run with no lid all the time. I kept the lid so I can put it on to wash my quad and not soak the air filter. I've also considered cutting away the rest of the airbox but I don't think the added airflow (if any) would offset how much more filth the air filter would be exposed to.

Right on ABM, is your wife goin too? I'll be there as soon as I can get there Saturday, just got last minute stuff right now; ordered a new chain so I can run the 15-tooth front sprocket, gotta get a crack welded on my swingarm, and make a front & rear number plate for Chris...do you need those too? If so I can make 'em, just like my rear plate, works great.

My '96 also has a normal title. You should be able to call the DMV anonomously and have them run the VIN, just to make sure it's not hot, they may also be able to give you the title holder's address. If all else fails and it looks like it's clean, talk to a used car lot or body shop and see who can file for a "lost title"...

Another vote for LSR, I have firsthand experience with a +2 Axcalibur and it's been awesome, handled mass abuse for the last 3 years without a complaint. Would you believe in a TT wreck I bent a rear hub (yes the stock cast iron ones) and the axle is still perfectly straight? Excellent axle in my opinion.

Sounds electrical, a high-speed miss is a symptom of a failing coil, I'd start there if you're sure there's no apparent pattern (like only when hot/cold). Might be a reed but chances are it wouldn't be intermittant like that...not certain but there's an outside chance that the fuel additive is separating out and making the jetting funky...

I'm in there late, like 7-8pm or 9pm MST...so like after 9pm EST.

Patriot's price on the clutch cover mod is $259 with exchange, and they polish the whole cover. For $360 you can get the lockout and the cover modded: http://www.patriotracing.net/Banshee.htm

Sandbagger shit!!! Yeah, Josh sent me an email this mornin', hope he has better luck this trip, if he has something break again I'll never get him down here again! I'll be there Saturday at about 2:00, if you get there earlier you might ask them if they'll let you do the poker run early and then hit it again when I show up, thought I saw somethin' about only prerunning the course once... Thanks again guys, I'll be able to prerun the course the day before the race so hopefully I can get by on my current setup...and I love ridin' desert. If only Pike's Peak was a little closer, mebbe next year

I haven't ever been to Dumont, gotta wait a couple more weeks, but here's some general dune trip (2-3 days) tips: Take everything you got room for; case oil, antifreeze, premix oil, spare parts, tools, rags, etc. Take shade and some folding chairs, sunblock and chapstick are also a good idea. Be sure to have enough water. 5 gal per day of premix is a minimum, but a pretty fair average. If you can, keep a tow strap on your quad just in case. If you're tenting it and stuck with an ice chest, get lotsa ice. The wind can be a bitch sometimes so don't plan on being able to make chicken fetuccini in the parking lot; sandwiches are OK if you're quick, try to pack food that takes very little preparation and that you can scarf down without much exposure...sometimes eating in the truck is the best route. I try and take all the tools, parts, and fluids I can. I've had axle bearings shell out, clutch cables break, bent a-arms, busted headlights, etc. etc. and if you're halfway prepared hopefully you won't miss out on much riding. Have fun.

Thanks everyone, I appreciate it. I can grab one of those tire inflator cans from Wal-Mart and maybe strap it to the grab bar or something, but if I gotta pit after one loop (yes Stan 23 miles per loop, 46 miles total) I'll probably just have some fuel & water at the truck instead of getting a camelback. I know I need 20" or 22" rear tires but can't afford them right now, but I'll see if I can put on my 15-tooth front sprocket. If things go well I can set up better for the next one. I'll be sure to take some pics...

And anyone else, just looking for any kind of tips or tricks, or what to look out for. I'm running the Tarantula 100 in Alamogordo, NM next Sunday the 15th, along with Ridingorhiding and some of his crazy friends. I know for sure that the course is approx 23 miles, and the Novice class I'm entering makes 2 laps. A buddy from Alamo said that it's mostly sand whoops, ranging in size from like 1' tall and 2' apart to damn near doubles/rythm section like 3' tall and 5' apart. He said it wasn't rocky (thank God), but what wasn't whoops was dirt road and a couple sand hills. Easy stuff; they require spark arrestors so I'm mounting my stock cans on my Fatty's again. Already got tether, nerfs, numbers, blah blah. Gonna run the stock steel rear skidplate and a homemade plastic belly skidplate, about 3/16" thick. The race starts at 8am and judging by past results, takes a little under 2 hours to make 2 loops, so lights aren't an issue. First off, all I've got is 18" rear Holeshot MXR's, almost brand new...think I'll be OK if it's mostly sand trails? Do those CO2 tire inflators work worth a shit? I've got plugs and the tools, but don't have a way to inflate the tire out on the trail. From what I know of the area cacti are scarce, but there's likely to be lotsa Mesquite. Think I'll be able to make 2 loops on one tank of fuel (370 mains, stock tank) or should I plan on refueling after one loop? I plan on taking a few tools, maybe a couple plugs and a spare chain master link, and a cellphone in a fanny pack, what else? I know this isn't a hardcore Baja 500 or anything but still, I'd rather be safe than sorry. At this point I'm pretty much stuck with the setup I've got, which probably isn't the best but hopefully will get me by, even if I had time I don't have the cash to build a full-tilt desert burner. I'll be running my K&N with Outerwear in the airbox and hoping I don't eat a ton of dust...would running the lid and rejetting be worth it or not? Any kinda tips or tricks you got would be much appreciated. BTW ridingorhiding is running his DS (same class as me), should I sneak a 12-tooth front sprocket on there and strap an ice chest full of Gatorade on his grab bar so I can keep him behind me and when I'm thirsty just stop and wait? Just kidding, hope he don't lap me...

Carbon in the ring grooves?

Thanks Blacksmith, when I get it roughed in I'll have you check it out...

Lincster, when my CDI went out I got a Dyna FS (adjustable not programmable) for like $240 versus OEM from local dealer $318. But I think all Dyna sells now is the programmable units for $345 or so, you might check www.dynaonline.com or www.pro-flo.com and see (the latter is where I bought mine). Good luck.

Walter, when you get a chance let me know what you want for the rear sprocket hub, and hell price me the chain too (assuming it's the stock o-ring 104 link). If the price is right mebbe you could just bring it to Dumont...

As a side note, what do you guys think about a Banshee Electrical FAQ? Might be my next project at work (I got plenty to do at home with the RZ), in between wallpapers...

I agree with Blacksmith, sounds like the CDI is likely but I'd check everything else to be sure... Specifically, the way you said it wouldn't start again after HE turned it off, I would make double sure the kill switch and the black/white wire are OK; if the black/white wire is touching the frame anywhere it won't fire (the switch just grounds that wire to tell the CDI not to fire). You might also take the switch itself apart and check it out. You can bypass the key switch with a jumper between black and black/red at the connector (it works opposite of the handlebar kill switch; open circuit is "on"). When my CDI went out I was ridin' fine and all of a sudden it died, not kinda running just died like someone hit the kill switch, never fired again. When my stator went out, it started missing for a minute then alltogether quit also, never would fire up. One other thing I ran into was one the orange wire fallin' off the coil, same symptoms and net result but all it took was crimping the spade terminal a little tighter. Good luck, hope you find it, and BTW you can try your CDI on his even if the connectors are different by just taking the terminals out of the connectors, if you need help there lemme know.

CDI's arent' cheap, I'd be afraid to run it too. I dunno, on a Banshee the voltage regulator is on a completely separate circuit from the CDI, it's only there to keep the headlight/taillight bulbs from blowin'. I guess if it was mine I'd find a wiring diagram and/or a service manual and see what goes into the CDI and test from there. Good luck.

I'll be there sometime Tuesday afternoon, 3/3. Probably like 4 or 5pm. I should be driving a red Chevy half ton x-cab 2wd and pulling a little white enclosed trailer, might have another banshee in the truck bed...

Hey toomeyshee87! Exriders huh? Hope there's no permanent psychological damage, heh.

THANKS cb67rs1!!!! Sold. Will be shipping tomorrow.