BenBB

Hand warmers!! Wish I had the cash, awesome build. Good luck.

LOL! Got my wife an HP laptop last year and she still loves it, no issues. You try like a USB mouse to eliminate the possibilty of a bad touchpad? I'm using a Logitech wireless laptop mouse with the nano receiver on mine and it's sweet...

What I did was find a drive-in grease zerk that fit the hole in the swingarm bolt, then welded the head end of the bolt shut, then cross-drilled the bolt and sleeve so the grease could get to the bearings. Works great. Just find the right size press-fit zerk and tap it in to the threaded end of the bolt using a socket or something so you don't crush the check valve. If you don't have access to a welder you could put a zerk on both ends of the bolt. You do want to make sure you cross-drill the bolt and spacer so the grease can reach the bearings though.

Thanks man I think I'll ante up for it, XM is having a free preview right now (11/18 to 12/1) so inactive receivers are getting a selection of channels for free, something like 60 out of the 120 they have. Sounds good though, I think it'll be worth it.

No shit??? I keep track of my hours but didn't use it as a guideline for when it needed anything, I average about 200 hours on a topend...

Finally moved up the work truck food chain, from a '00 Silverado half ton to an '03 2500 Duramax 6.6L: So far I'm liking it, but the factory in-dash 6 disc changer is shot and I'm looking at $120 or so in adapters just to shove a single-DIN CD player in there (and about another $300 for a half-decent double-DIN touchscreen), it does have XM though, I'd hafta shell out for a subscription, is it worth it? Right now I'm commuting an hour and a quarter to/from work each way, about 75 miles, through BFE and I have a feeling the meager selection of FM stations are gonna get old real fucking quick...

I had a local machine shop ball hone my bores and I re-ringed my Pro-Lites once, but it's just a temporary solution really. You can get a few more rides out of it (maybe a lot depends on the hours it already has and how hard you are on it) but you're better off just going to the next overbore with fresh pistons IMHO...

Relavent to my interests

No doubt, that thing is immaculate.

It has a fairly thick aluminum bracket that mounts on the frame crossmember just above & rear of the upper bumper mounts, then the other side has an aluminum clamp that goes on the steering stem, so the stabilizer mounts more or less horizontal and front to rear.

I like my Denton, but I don't have anything to compare it to firsthand as it's the only brand I've tried. Mounts and works great though, I would recommend it.

84/85 RZ350 head, came on the motor when I got it but I never ran it, Dan at Patriot had one with a different dome configuration (I never knew there was more than one). Looks like it's been shaved already, not sure how far, no warpage or damage though. $50 shipped UPS Ground to the lower 48 or make an offer: Also have a spare PV cap with plastic cam whateverthefuckyoucallit and cables, a little ugly (didn't polish this one) but cables move freely and nothing is stripped or otherwise screwed up. Slight exterior crack on one cable but works fine and I'd run it, rubber is in good shape and the adjusters have zero corrosion. I dunno $20 shipped? Make offer what ya think is fair, combo deal on both is even better:

Ok how 'bout $200 shipped...

Asking $300 shipped UPS Ground, if you need 'em make an offer. These are off my son's '01 and he just blew a piston, gotta fund the topend All blades intact no rips, more pictures available. Rims are perfectly straight, tires hold air well. Located in Roswell, NM. Oh yeah fronts are 21x8x10, rears 20x11x10, 8-paddle, all stock offsets.

If it's dribbling like that it's probably a little grain of sand or something keeping the float valve from seating completely; it could be the float sticking like killa said although it could just need a slight adjustment to the float... I'm not that sharp on injection but I can give ya a crash course on carbs, at least stock Banshee carbs. Fuel gravity feeds from the tank to the carbs, there's a little plastic strainer on the inside of the tank on the petcock that is supposed to screen trash from the bottom of the tank, although sometimes they fall off and/or get torn or whatever and things get through. If the system was dry and you turned the petcock "on" at the tank, fuel would flow through the lines straight to the carb bowls, through a type of needle valve that's connected to a float; the float and valve is just like a swamp cooler where as the float rises it pushes a valve shut. The needle valve itself is a little brass thing with a pointy rubber tip that seats against a machined brass seat; if a grain of sand or whatever lodges between the needle tip and seat it will keep flowing a small amount of fuel, which in turn will dribble out like at idle when the carbs aren't drinking alot of fuel. Same happens when the float sticks open, except it flows like crazy and just dumps fuel straight out the overflow; this can happen when you have the carbs apart or otherwise have empty bowls if the float decides to stay down. Sometimes just tapping the bowls with the end of a screwdriver will pop them free and float again, shutting the float valve, and you're good to go. Other times you hafta pull the carb and clean whatever is sticking the float at the hinge or whatever (the hinge is a little solid drive pin that is easily tapped out). Lastly you may just need to adjust the float height, which just happens sometimes, other times it will never need adjustment (there's other oddities that aren't common but do happen, like a pinhole in the float allowing fuel to enter and make it sink, or the pin falling out, or the tangs the pin goes into breaking off, etc. etc.). To adjust the height you pull the carb, take off the bowl, turn it upside down and measure between the bowl gasket surface and the bottom of the float (which is now the top of the float since it's now upside down); should be 20-22mm if I remember right. To adjust it just lightly bend the silver metal float lever between the float and the hinge. Hope that helps. Oh and don't forget to put the choke tube back in place between the carbs if you pull them, and like killa said don't get the bowls reversed they are different one side to the other for the choke. Good luck.

Thanks I appreciate it, I'll check 'em out.

For a Banshee, naturally, looked at RMA and they have a cheap one, probably get what I pay for there but better than nothing; Cabela's has a nice one with a not-so-nice price tag on it ($110 oughta be fleece lined)...any site sponsors carry them? Any other recommendations??

I'm in for an XL, any color that ain't gay :biggrin: Pink=gay Purple=gay Black, Gray with grease/premix oil spatter or White with bloodstains=not gay +1 on tha long sleeve, I'd prolly get one of each if that was the case.

Exactly.

Postwhoring ain't what it used to be hahaha :biggrin: How tha hell are ya man? Good to hear you're among the living... ...and at least you still have 'em heh, here's hoping you dust them off once in a while :beer: Right on F&F!!! Ride safe brotha, oh and start shoppin' for a Blaster and then a Banshee for her, it' won't be long :cool:

I thought that TSS motor looked kinda familiar :cool:

Liger FTW!

Uhh Midol? I dunno never had pms...oh not that pms :ermm: