BenBB

Holyman, how 'bout I send you two of 'em, on off my '96 and one off my RZ, you keep one and send me a built one (I don't care which)?

Do this; grab the rotor with one hand and the rear sprocket with the other...see if they both move. If so, tighten the axle nuts. My stock axle nuts came loose all the time, blue loctite helped but nothing cured it until I got a locknut (Alloyspecialties-thanks NYUK! Hasn't loosened once since I put it on). If you leave it the way it is now the axle (or more likely the brake rotor hub) splines will wallow out and eventually strip off completely... As others mentioned, it would be a good idea to check the axle bearings; support the quad on a stand or something so the rear tires are off the ground and see if you can move the axle forward or back relative to the carrier. If there's any forward/back play, it's the bearings; if there's only side-to-side play, tighten the axle nuts.

I suffer from LorrainaBobbituhphobia. Psycho bitches with knives scare the crap outta me...

I agree with spoin39 and 51222, but I'd start with 330 mains and 30 pilots, you could start with 400's like Aussie said but I think that's a bit much, and you'd wind up going down on the mains quite a ways... Got some stuff in the Jetting FAQ below that might help you dial in the jetting too:

40:1 would be a richer air/fuel ratio than 32:1; less oil so more fuel per volume. You might be on the edge of lean at 10 degrees, but you should be OK as long as you take it easy and be wary of any signs of overheating or bad lean (like backfire, revving high & fast with no power). One thing to consider; do you run the stock airbox? If say, it was jetted for no lid, you could just put the lid on for the colder weather (without the snorkel), it'll be roughly equivalent to jetting the mains one size richer (you may lose some power becuase the airflow is restricted but the chances of a meltdown are lesser)...or if it's jetted for the lid on now you could go up a size on the mains and pull the lid off when it warms up outside and runs a little boggy...

Yes Fixitrod you must attend! Everyone that thinks they have a remote chance, don't give up!! I guess I'll take my stock silencers, they're modified to fit Fatty's if anyone thinks they'll need 'em (or if I hafta mount them for some reason)...

As long as the ground wire is, well, grounded, I don't think the voltage regulator needs to be.

Got one and a half right now; a '96 Banshee and a '85 RZ motor...

I can't hear anything over the kickstarter rattling...but when it's cold my clutch does chatter a little. Try to pinpoint the sound by holding the handle of a screwdriver to your ear and putting the end of the screwdriver in different places on the cylinder, head, tranny, etc... The one pipe smoking more could be lotsa things; plug starting to foul, pilot jet clogged, maybe float height on that side, broken reed...check the side that isn't firing, unless they are BOTH firing and one side has thick white smoke-in that case you may have a head gasket leak.

Thanks Holyman and Meat, I appreciate it. Meat: whoever built this motor got crazy with the black spray paint (not to mention Yamabond-that shit is everywhere!!). There's overspray on top of the original black paint, all the bolts and rubber covers were shot with it, and there's alot of places he shot it that the factory didn't (like inside the top case but not the bottom, over all the black plastic stator/clutch covers, etc.). So I considered stripping ALL the paint to just a bare aluminum finish, or goin' all the way and polishing it (SHOULD be less work since I just got a bench grinder). Guess I'll take a closer look and decide if it's worth the effort...

Dude, that's hours of entertainment (howwasshe.com), nice find

Check for spark first, pull the plug out, stick it in the spark plug boot, and hold the tip against the head; when you hit the starter you should see a fat blue spark, if not the problem could be the plug cap/wire, coil, CDI, or wiring. If you got spark, make sure the air filter is clean, if it isn't clean & oil it and try again; if it is try the choke "on" and "off" and see if it makes any difference. You said you smelled gas, is the plug wet with fuel when you take it out after cranking? Is the fuel fresh?

Or 5,000,002.38 Kw/(mm mustard x 2) for every Megaohm of thread resistance. (that's in the Stan system, a direct conversion to metric or Englis is lengthy )

I'd try going a clip position leaner on the needles and see what happens (move the clip up towards the blunt end)...assuming your air filter is clean & oiled that may cure it completely-and it's free. BTW CDI's are usually go or no go; when mine went out it was like someone hit the kill switch and it never fired again. Some will work intermittantly, but typically it'll run or it won't if the CDI is bad. Good luck.

Mine shook pretty hard before I shaved the front fenders, something to consider (you can easily try it out by just removing the front fenders)...

Mine's not even worth mentioning but in case anyone was curious it's my first name, middle and last initials...doesn't even stand for anything cool (and don't get any ideas Holyman, we did this once and your interpretations were a little frightening). Quite possibly the least inventive member name of all time, although I must say I really laughed at your response rebelbanshee2!!

I got bends in all my wheels, mostly just small ones but I have Douglas .190, .160, .125 and a couple ITP .190's. If it holds air I don't worry about it, if not I use a big brass drift and a 2.5 lb. sledge and go to town. They are such a bitch to bend back it kinda makes you think about how much force it took to bend them in the first place

Thanks ABM, I had a good time too, too bad about your truck tho. I still can't believe how quick that Canny runs, I'd almost be afraid of piping it (for sure with that twist throttle, it would kill me). Hopefully we'll both have better luck next time...

Probably better now than after they're sold. YFZ overheating problems? Fro the John Deere is just a rebadged Bombardier, most likely just the utility line...

Careful boonman, or we'll take up donations to send you to "anger management" classes... Dammit Forcefed beat me to it...one thing I can't stand is someone attempting a conversation (especially on the phone) while smacking/chewing/crunching something up: GODDAMNIT TALK OR EAT, FUCKING PICK ONE OR THE OTHER!!

Congratulations Turbo! And I thought you were a busy guy before...

Do you know if they have those in 21" or 22" led? Couldn't find anything but Skat-Trak tires on their site. Don't you think Fixitrod would be better off with the larger ones like rz said?

Make that 3 of us. I still think the orange SHOULD be on the "+" terminal, but I didn't notice any difference, the coil could probably care less. I did wind up going a size larger on the mains, but that was way back when, soon after I was dialing in for the K&N and learning about jetting, coulda had nothing to do with the wires at all.

I run the same as boonman, 20x10x10 8-paddle Hauler Extremes, and love them. They are great for all-around, but it sounds like you might want to consider 21x11x8's for drag racing...not sure since the Extremes and some old Cheng Shin Dune hoppers are all I've used, both 20". Those Sand Kings look great tho led, especially the price...

Thanks guys. I guess I'll get everything clean and give it a shot, if I don't get any bids I'll try makin' them shine. So what do you do NYUK, just put in the bid something like "auction will end early if sold locally" or something? Or you just pull the plug? You don't get any hate mail from the cheapskates that bid next to nothing? Not many cases on ebay now, at least that are getting bids, but I'm not the only one with chain damage, more than half are that way it looks like...and this one's not as bad as some are.