BenBB

For sure do it yourself, if you have any problems along the way just post it here and someone will help out. I'm guessing you got a jet kit if you got needles, they will replace the stock needles on the carb slides. They may or may not help but you can try them and see how it runs...jetting is just a matter of trial and error so you'll end up trying different settings (do one circuit at a time) and seeing what works best. BTW did you do any mods or is it not running right? Just curious since you just said you wanted to rejet without any further explanation. Good luck.

I agree with fixitrod, something's up if it won't even start or run...could be something simple like the kill switch or petcock not "on" but time to start looking... Is your airbox lid on or off? If it's off I would start with 320 mains, 30 pilots, airscrews 1.5 turns out, and needles in the stock (middle) clip position. If you have the lid on (and take the snorkel off the front), start with 310 mains. Whichever way you go it should be a safely rich starting point and you can dial it in from there...assuming it will run, got some more info on dialing in the carb circuits in the Jetting FAQ in my sig. Good luck.

I'd go up 4 or 5 sizes on the mains for the K&N's, but back off a size for the change in premix ratio (16:1 is leaner than 32:1, from an air/fuel standpoint)...or if you're close to sea level with the 2 K&N's, 32:1 premix, and average temps (60-80F), I'd start with 320 or 330 mains, 30 pilots, airscrews 1.5 turns out and needles in the stock (middle) clip position. Good luck.

There's some good stuff on B370's page somewhere: www.roostfest.com

Justintoxicated, getting there at 2am is a little late, wouldn't you rather leave early Saturday morning? If that's what works best I'll wait up with a flashlight...

Look at the pipes in this thread, I couldn't find the brand name tho... http://www.bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?...76&hl=imitation

Thank you boonman and Holyman!!! I really appreciate it, and Holyman if that one lever was junk and you can't use it let me know...

I'm locked and loaded, will be @ Dumont 3/3 to 3/7.

Well put boonman. I run .125 for TT (no jumps, lightest weight), .160 for dunes (for jumping but no rocks to worry about) and .190 for trails (better resistance to rock damage)...

Wallrat, no I have the stock head, just shaved it .020" and polished it when I was waiting to get my jugs back for a bore. I haven't installed an aftermarket o-ringed head yet so others (ALOT of others) here would be better able to help you out there...some will require stud replacement, others don't. I know you also hafta get the o-rings to stay in place when you mount the head, I think Meat's got some good tips on his page, like using grease to keep the o-rings from moving...

Damn gremlins. Sounds like you've done everything right and shee's still angry. One more thing to check, is continuity through the wires and to ground; with an ohmmeter make sure you have continuity from the CDI connector (the wiring harness side) to the following: Check red/white, green/white, red, and green to the wiring harness side of the stator 4-wire connector, AND to ground...you should have continuity between each color on both connectors and no continuity to ground (if to ground you know a wire is touching the frame or is melted and contacting the ground wire, also make sure there's not continuity between each color and the others...so like stick one end of the ohmmeter on the red wire at the CDI connector, and one at a time stick it on each of the other colors at the stator end and ground to see if it beeps). Check black wire at CDI connector, ground eyelet at voltage regulator, and coil wire for continuity to the frame. Check white/black wire at CDI connector for continuity and no ground at the handlebar kill switch. Check orange wire for continuity and no ground from CDI to coil. Make sure red/black wire has continuity to ground. Good luck, I know you can find it, just take your time and you'll get it.

Good call on the emergency contacts, I sent ya an email with my info (and I'm subscribed to the list).

I dunno, never been inside an LT80, but if it was me I would invest in a Clymer manual or otherwise and see what's in there. It's an automatic clutch, but I don't know for sure if it's got a single-speed transmission or CVT...but from your description I'd look into the clutch mechanism first.

Excellent list. A couple things I like that I would add: Temp gauge Relocate/remove coolant overflow bottle Grease zerk on swingarm pivot bolt Aftermarket/Blaster pegs (or just move the stock ones back like I did-may or may not be a good idea with a shorter swingarm), hafta shorten the shift & brake levers tho Water Wetter in a 50/50 coolant mix Remove worthless e-brake system (good excuse for a nice aftermarket clutch perch) In-line fuel filter I'd add powervalves to the list but I'm not done with my RZ conversion yet...that's just one cool thing about Banshees, the list of available mods is long and distinguished, just like my Johnson...

Grease the shock mounts; not such a big deal on the fronts but the stock rear shock has spherical bearings and lip seals, grease 'em up while you got it apart. Good choice on the axle carrier, I advise adding the grease zerk and a vent bolt, so you can tell when it's full of grease and don't have to worry about the grease pressure pushing the outside bearing seals off or anything (just remember to remove the inside bearing seals). You could also add a grease zerk to the swingarm pivot bolt, I did on my '96. The bolt is hollow so if you weld up one end (I did the bolt head end) and install a drive-in grease zerk (I did the thread end), all you hafta do is cross-drill the bolt and spacer in the center to get grease to the pivot bearings. You might consider taking off the jugs too, just to inspect the crank for separation and the condition of the rod big end bearings. Might also pull the clutch cover and check out the water pump impeller too, just in case. I'd use Never-Seize instead of grease on the hub splines (I use that shit anywhere there's a steel bolt going into aluminum, unless it needs loctite); even tho it's steel to steel I think Never-Seize will last longer and work better than grease. I made my own pipe hangers out of aluminum, more or less exactly like the stock ones except I used two bolts through the rubber cushion instead of the stock glue that fell apart...

True that B. Don't split the cases yet Justintoxicated, or back out just yet, there's still time...but tha clock is tickin'. Walter, is there a list of contacts anywhere? I was just thinkin' it might be a good idea to have some phone numbers in a handy list I could print out just in case...ya know if my tranny drops out of the truck 10 miles from Vegas, who might I be able to call? I dunno if posting cell numbers in a public forum or on the rf page is a no-no, maybe on the email list? Just a thought, and I certainly wouldn't mind if anyone wanted to call me for help or planning how to get there...

OK 2 things: 1. You said key switch removed, are the two wires on the wiring harness side of the connector spliced or otherwise connected together? It won't run if these two wires don't have a complete circuit; the key switch works opposite of the handlebar kill switch: when the red/black wire is grounded it's "on", when the black/red wire is not grounded it's "off"...the white/black for the handlebar kill switch is "off" when grounded and "on" when the circuit is open. 2. Recheck the colors coming from the test CDI and your wiring harness (the known working CDI). They should match in color on both sides of the connector, with the exception of one odd one (probably purple). The green/white wire comes from the stator, you need that one to get to the CDI. This wiring diagram might help you to eliminate what isn't needed for it to run, you can disregard the lighting circuits for now: You gotta have red/white, red/green, red, and green going from the stator to the CDI. You gotta have orange and black going from the CDI to the coil (black is also grounded at the stator and the frame, usually at the voltage regulator mount). Last, you gotta have red/black grounded to black to run, and white/black NOT grounded. Hope this helps, I know you've been at it long enough...

I'm down.

Track/trails: 21x7x10 front Holeshots on ITP .190, 18x10x8 rear Holeshot MXR on Douglas .190 Dunes: 21x7x10 front Skat Trak Mohawks on Douglas .160, 20x10x10 8-paddle Hauler Extremes on Douglas .160 TT: 18x6x10 front American Racers on Douglas .125, 59x10x10 rear Hoosiers on Douglas .125 w/rings You asked... Like sandman said, you got alotta options on tires & wheels, alot depends on what you are gonna do; I like 18" rears for MX-type riding but for desert you're better off with 20" or even 22". Keep in mind that a different diameter will change your gearing, so you might need to change a sprocket or two to get the power where you want it. I like Holeshots for all-around, but I know there's other good tires out there, and maybe better ones for your particular application.

Happens all the time, check this out: http://kuoi.asui.uidaho.edu/~john/tips.html The stock coolant bottle location allows coolant to gravity feed right out of the bottle whenever the nose is low (going downhill, landing a jump, etc.). You can either live with it, move tho bottle up front, or eliminate it.

I agree with spoin39, keep the single K&N in the airbox. But if you can I would remove the lid (assuming the filter will stay in place without the lid, and you don't hit ALOT of mud & water), and start richer on the mains; like 320 (assuming you're close to sea level, 60-80 degrees F and 32:1 premix). If you keep the lid, I'd start with 300 mains...you might wind up at 280's but I like to start rich and work my way down. 270 mains would prolly be lean with your K&N unless you were at a REAL high elevation or high temps. Good luck.

20-22mm from the carb body without the gasket, I set mine at 21mm. Got some stuff in the Jetting FAQ in my sig about setting the float height...

Forgot to add, I'd leave the needle where it's at for now until you dial in the mains. Then if there's any bog or hesitation between about 1/4 and 3/4 throttle you can adjust the needle clip position as necessary...

If it bogs at WOT the mains may be too rich, if you're certain it's rich try dropping to 310 mains. It's not unlikely since you're running 50:1, but I would make sure it's rich before going leaner; you can try warming it up and popping the choke out to the first notch; if it bogs even worse you know the mains are rich, if it improves then it's lean and you would be correct in trying larger 340 mains. Good luck.

Good call Fixitrod. Personally, I like the improvement in suspension; even if I was only ridin' dunes I really liked going with +2 a-arms and Works triple rates (cost me $485 for Ricky Stators, $345 for Works). When the sand gets rutted it'll handle so much better. I also really like my Mohawks (about $170 on Douglas .160), and shaving the front fenders. A +2 axle for around $350 may not really help as much on sand, but if you're jumping alot it's well worth it I think. With the $150 you got left you could shave the head, advance the timing 4 degrees via a key or slot the stator plate, port your own reed cages and add some TDR reeds, and maybe even add some nice handlebars... But you could always do a little bit of everything with the dough; like some suspension upgrades (front shocks), some motor stuff (coolhead, hi-output stator with adjustable timing plate, reeds), and some shiny stuff (Alluminators, front tires), etc.