BenBB

Here's my front number plate, and old pic: And an old pic of my rear number plate, made it out of a red 5-gallon bucket, and a couple aluminum angles to bolt where the taillight mounts up:

The same twisted time warp that the "post date" is in... Look! Christmas is 4 days away!!!

The head shouldn't require a jetting change, but the porting will...I'd ask whoever is doing the porting for a ballpark idea on the jetting, they should be able to get you close.

If it's been doing it for two years you can pretty much rule out a head gasket leak on that side (also the smoke would be thick & white). Is the compression the same on both sides? I'd start with the pilots, take them out and clean the orifice. The passage is real small and it doesn't take more than a grain of sand to clog them. Also make sure both carbs have the same main jets and needle clip positions (you never know). Next, check the carb sync. Fresh plugs wouldn't hurt but again since you said it's worked for 2 years I doubt it would matter, but it wouldn't hurt trying. Good luck.

I always thought mine had them so that no matter how you cleaned off the grease, the slightest film would attract sand like a magnet...enough dune riding and the whole damn thing would blend in with it's surroundings rendering it virtually invisible...

Sez I'm toast at 66 years old-guess I'll quit throwing money away in a 401k...

Holyman, sent you an email...

You're on the right track Nighty, keep at it: You started at 280 mains and it was lean, went to 340's and it was way rich, drilled holes in the airbox lid to lean it out and it helped (if I'm reading it right), try 330 mains and see how it runs...

Not to sound like an asshole, but BUY IT. Well worth the $30 and your hard-earned bucks will help support the sport (financing the next Huevos, support for the Bomb Squad and the races Wes competes in, etc.). Get the DVD and watch it on yer PC. Save the kazaa and the bandwidth for Paris Hilton flicks...

I tend to agree with the quote on DIRT BIKES, but I don't foresee Banshees ever being sold as "closed course" models, the factories have already committed thumpers for this designation. STLBill you make some good points, but there's two entirely different agencies responsible here; the CPSC and dipshit lawsuits led to the demise of TRX250R, LT250R, LT500R, and Tecate sales: no amount of demand (or subsequent sales)was going to make up for all the lawsuits and bad publicity. Now we have the EPA, backed by the enviro-nazis attempting to regulate sales by limiting emissions (when all they really want is a total ban on off-road vehicles)... The CPSC forced factories to cease production to protect themselves, now the EPA is trying to do the same under the guise of "protecting us". Two different angles with more or less the same intent. BTW Yamaha's continued Banshee (and Blaster) production through all this crap as you mentioned is one of the reasons I have alot of respect for Yamaha as a whole. Crazy bastards, gotta love 'em. Sniff. I'm gonna go hug my Banshee now...

Looks like you got a real good deal...

Sweet. I'm ordering some new Holeshots today (gotta get 18" MXR's tho, can't afford a set of 20"ers just yet, will hafta bring a 15T front sprocket), and I'll make sure I got my swingarm skidplate mounted. I am down for the desert AND the dunes

Simple Green.

I race TT also, but D34 probably has the sweetest setup... Anyway, I run +2 +1 Ricky Stator a-arms, Lonestar +2 axle, stock swingarm (for now), and Works front shocks. I think Lonestar makes the best axles, but for TT only you might consider a Ricky Stator axle like Indubitably said, or maybe the new TEAM axles (not sure how they compare on price but the quality is supposed to be good). I wouldn't consider Durablue, don't have firsthand experience but have heard enough horror stories. I also agree about the Quicksand a-arms, from what I've seen and heard they are a good product, and offer castor adjustment that my Ricky Stators do not. For what I paid, I love the Ricky Stators, and would recommend them, but if you want castor adjustment they don't have it. You don't need long travel so no need looking at those, and avoid anything sold by or built by American Star. There are many good a-arms on the market, and just for TT you could use "rec" arms instead of the heavier MX arms, like Lonestar for instance. Others to consider are Janssen, nice arms there. I think D34 runs top-of-the-line AFCO shocks, ride height adjustable; very nice shocks. Personally, I'm looking at Works TT shocks to lower the front without a "kit", since some kits won't work with aftermarket a-arms (the billet ones on ebay that mount to the a-arm). For now I run my Works triple rate fronts with the middle spring removed for TT, it drops the nose a good 2" or more. I run a stock rear shock along with a lowering link (similar to the billet ones on ebay-I'll upgrade to that soon), and just increase the preload and compression depending on how low I've got it set. I have to switch between a TT and dune setup so I like the billet link better than the Durablue. You can have the stock swingarm shortened, mrmatt here on the forums does it for around $100. If you can afford it, go with an aftermarket swingarm with a round housing (Honda style), like Quicksand or Lonestar. One other thing to consider is a swaybar. I run a Rand's from Nac's and it works OK, but is nowhere near the quality of a Rath, Lonestar, or even a Durablue. When I can afford it I'll be running a Rath or Lonestar. Hope this helps.

Banshee04le-I use a ratchet strap to compress the springs on my Works triple rates, my strap doesn't have hooks, just a single strap from one end; I thread it under the main spring and back into the ratchet, then tighten the ratchet enough to remove the retainer on the bottom of the main spring (it helps to move the bumper away from the end that it sits so you can get the retainer off). Once that retainer is out (just look at it: it's got an open side that it slides off the shaft when the spring is compressed), it's real easy to move the preload spring wherever you want, I just leave the strap on the spring, change the preload (be careful not to bend the hell out of the snap ring, just move it one slot at a time), then reassemble it. BTW don't mess with that schrader valve, it'll let out a nitrogen/shock oil mix, under something like 200 or 250 psi. Oh yeah, when you have the main spring off you can compress the shock through it's travel; you should feel it become "stiffer" as it compresses. There should be some resistance, if it's super soft then it might be time for a rebuild. I think Works quoted me $160 to rebuild and revalve if necessary, and something like $100 to add rezzys. Good luck.

If you got the bucks and want the best, check out www.faliconcranks.com

Right on, put me down for checking out Casa del Duece, a shower or two sounds great and I'll help any way I can while there (need someone to pick up dog shit? I got experience-6 dogs at my pad). Boonman-didja get my email? I need an address to send the star... Fixitrod-sounds like you got the paddles handled, if all else fails I got a buddy here with a set of Sand Sharks I could probably borrow. Blue Duece-I gotta get some new Holeshots...tell me there's some fast, wide, sandy arroyos to blaze down, I love those. Theeechozen1-where the hell you at? When you get a chance lemme know what days you got in mind (it's on page 19).

Theeechozen1, what days you got in mind for travel and riding? Just looking at the calander, the 4th is a Thursday and the 7th is a Sunday... It'll take me a day drivin' to get to PHX, so if I left here Tuesday, we could head out Wed and be ridin' Thursday...or should I leave Wed and we roll from Phoenix Thurs, be riding Fri? Or I could leave earlier, no biggie just need to figure it out. And the return trip, you want to leave Sunday and head to Phoenix (I'd drive home from there Monday and be at work Tuesday)? Or bail Monday? I was kinda thinking leavin here Tues, we ride Dumont Thurs, Fri, Sat, and head out Sunday, but I'm open to suggestions. I'm was thinkin' at least 2-3 days riding... BTW still not sure on the truck but for now you can count on at least room for 1 quad and 1 person riding shotgun (it'll just be me driving and my quad in the truck bed, and an 8' open trailer)...hopefully I'll find out soon on the 4-door truck and longer trailer...

Congratulations Banchetta! If you survive the delivery it's all downhill from there...

Nice one NYUK!

You hafta have at least 398 rounds on you at all times, and make sure it's loaded. I'm holding back on the gangsta sarcasm, guess it's "caliber envy" cause the best I can manage is takin' my little Ruger 10-22

www.toomey.com

That'd probably work.

The case oil is separate from the crank & pistons, sandbuzzard was it maybe a transmission bearing? Even if the crank seal on the clutch side went out, it would be hard to get debris from the tranny into the crank/cylinders... Ruff rida, was the motor broken in after the rebuild? What do the pistons look like? Scratches on the intake side, broken rings, etc.? How about the crank, especially the rod bearings?

That Pont de Vaux segment on Huevos 6 is pretty sweet too!