No problemo;
Do one carb at a time, and make sure they are clean so you don't get any filth in there. Unscrew the carb top, and lift it up. The carb slide will come out below the top. When the slide is free of the carb, bunch up the spring against the carb top with one hand and hold it (there's a couple different methods here, you can try using a zip tie to hold it bunched up or you can "unthread" the spring off the cable, this is just how I do it), then with the other hand tilt the carb slide, there's a little gold retainer that sits in the slide and keeps the end of the cable from coming off the slide. Make a note of how this retainer sits in the carb slide because you'll need to put it back (it just sits in there, the tension of the spring holds the cable). Tip the slide upside slightly and the retainer should fall out. Don't worry about the needle coming out, you have to remove two phillips-head screws and take out the plate inside the slide to get it out, just be careful not to bend the needle. Once the retainer is out, push the cable in slightly and to the side and it will be free of the slide. Then you can pull the cable out of the carb top.
Reassembly is just the reverse, stick the throttle cable through the carb top, bunch up the spring and hold it in the carb top, hang the slide on the end of the cable (this is the tricky part, careful not to drop the slide), drop the retainer in the slide over the cable, let go of the spring, and thread the top back on the carb. MAKE SURE that the slides aren't reversed, the cutout on the bottom of the slide should face the airbox. Also, before you thread the top on, make sure the slide goes into the carb smoothly without binding, and the little alignment tab on the right-hand side of the carb lines up with the groove on the carb slide. As you drop the slide into the body it should slide up and down freely but should not spin in the bore. Also it should go all the way down without any resistance when you start the threads on the carb top (if it's not lined up with the alignment tab it won't slide all the way down, and when you try to thread the cap on you'll feel resistance of the spring being compressed).
When you get both carbs done, pull off the air filter and look down the carb throats, you should see both slides bottomed. Now route the cable the same way as the old cable (you may need to remove the front fenders and fuel tank to make sure it goes through the loop on the front framerail). Thread the cable into the thrumb throttle housing, and adjust the cable at the housing so you have free play, you don't want tension on the cable when the throttle is released (the throttle could bind or stick). You should have about 1/4" of free play at the tip of the thumb lever (best I can remember, you might want to double check that number). Adjust the cable at the thumb housing to get the free play right, and double check by looking into the carbs again that they close when the throttle is let off and move up and down smoothly as the throttle is pushed.
Finally, sync the carbs. I usually do it by sight; looking into the carb throats, barely push the throttle and see if one slide moves before the other. The adjusters are on the carb tops, long hex-shaped threaded thing with a nut that holds it in place. Loosen the nut and turn the adjuster (it doesn't take much, just turn them a quarter turn or less at a time) so that both slides move off zero throttle at the same instant. Once they are in sync, tighten the locknut on the adjusters. Verify the sync by opening the throttle fully and releasing it quickly; you should hear both carbs "click" shut in unison. There are more accurate ways to sync the carbs but this way works for me.
Any other questions let us know...
