BenBB

Sent you a PM cb67rs1.

Just say when Justintoxicated, we'll be lookin' for ya.

Rzcolobanshee-thanks, that's what I was thinkin'. Shortys racing-I was hoping I could get $125 for the cases, if you're interested please let me know and make an offer if you think that's too much (that $125 would include freight via UPS Ground).

Right on Meat! I'm usually around late...6 or 7pm here so like 9 or 10 in PA...

See Q#22 in the Jetting FAQ, should have what you need to change the needle clip position (it's about a 3rd of the way down the page). Basically what you do is remove the carb cap (leave the cable attached), when you lift it the slide will come out, remove the cable from the slide, and remove the plate on the slide to get to the needle...the hardest part is dealing with the return spring, someone had some good ideas in the Tips & Tricks forum a while back (using a zip tie to hold the compressed spring). Good luck.

I need to try and sell this stuff to help pay for my crank work, let me know if anyone is interested in any or all of it: '85 RZ350 Top & bottom cases-BARE case set with studs, dowels, and shift rail plugs. Factory paint/powdercoat has been bead blasted, cases have been thoroughly cleaned and all gaskets/sealant removed. Very minor chain damage to upper case, small hole approx 1" x 0.5" that does not extend into gearbox, cosmetic only. Rear motor mount appears to have been narrowed slightly, not real sure what the deal is there but there are no holes into the gearbox. Includes factory hardware (with the wiring harness guide things, clutch cable retainer, etc.), water pump neck, clutch arm, neutral indicator plate, the little plate behind the clutch, countershaft spacer and nut (for front sprocket), tranny drain plug, and tachometer internal assembly (shaft, 3 gears, retainer, cap). '85 RZ350 Clutch cover-has been bead blasted & cleaned. Only damage I can see is a small indentation just below the round cover, and a scratch below the kickstarter seal boss. Includes factory water pump shaft & impeller, seal, bearing, inner cover, oil pump blockoff plate, round center cover, water pump outer cover (appears to be Banshee and not RZ), and all original hardware. '85 RZ350 Stator cover-factory plastic cover, includes rubber piece (not gasket) and a few bolts, missing a couple mounting bolts. '85 RZ350 Rubber intakes with hardware. '85 RZ350 Reed cages with reeds and stops (all stock). '85 RZ350(?) Stock Mikuni 26mm carbs-not 100% sure if these were factory on the RZ or not as there is not a linkage between the carbs; similar to a Banshee with TORS removal kit but the bowls have inputs for the oil injection. In comparison to stock carbs the bowls are bigger, and oddly enough the slides don't have a black coating. I didn't disassemble or clean these at all. '85 RZ350 Shift shaft with chrome shift lever-shaft in perfect condition, lever is stock length and looks decent. Comes with the shift star roller, arm, spring & bolt. '85 RZ350 kickstarter internal gear assembly with driven gear-perfect shape. Janssen Racing boost bottle-nice 'n shiny. Here's a pic of everything, I'd like to get $200 including freight to anywhere in the continental US. If you're after something specific let me know (PM or email) ASAP, as I'm going to put it on ebay in separate auctions if nobody here wants it... Links to more pics: http://www.dfn.com/benkaren/rzparts2.jpg http://www.dfn.com/benkaren/rzparts3.jpg http://www.dfn.com/benkaren/rzparts4.jpg http://www.dfn.com/benkaren/rzparts5.jpg $200 shipped, everything but the carbs is spotless and ready for assembly (or you could polish, paint or powdercoat the cases and clutch cover). Goes on ebay the week of February 9th...

Amen brother NYUK.

Damn, she's lucky that nipple ring didn't come off too...owwwwch.

I'll find it this week and check it out...I think it was all of 9 minutes long, if not less, and at one point my padre was following someone else around the track, heh. Can anyone convert a VHS tape to mpg or quicktime????? Would be alot easier if I could get it online...

Same as D34, I have a tape of a few races, but none of mine show Nationals or Women's classes, just me racin' at a couple tracks but it would give you an idea of the track layout at least (one is from Brashear, TX, they will host a National this year). They were taken with a VHS-C camcorder, video quality is decent but I don't have a way to get it online...

ROFL Holyman! The Snapple analogy was hilarious! I have 2 cents today, but my place in the global political and economic scene is about equal to a grain of sand in Glamis...think I'll hang on to it and spend it on premix. George Carlin for president!!! Big tits, big cars, big cigars, I love America.

I agree with everyone else, good points. Alot will depend on the track, so start there and find out what kind of tires are required, and what setup everyone else is running. Some places like my local track have no restrictions, others won't let you on the track with knobby tires. If the competition in your class is weekend warriors and not amateur level, just get out there and see what you need most: High siding on the hairpins? get a wider axle, a-arms, lowering kits (or TT-specific shocks) and a swaybar; Getting left behind on the start? get some good rear tires and consider shortening the swingarm, increase compression, try different gearing but remember you'll sacrifice top speed if you emphasize shorter gearing; Getting passed on the straightaways? motor mods (pipes, filter, timing, etc.), try taller gearing if it won't kill your holeshot, consider porting; Getting outbraked and passed in turns? upgrade the brake lines to stainless steel. You'll need the basics (again some tracks are more lenient but safety stuff is always a good idea): helmet, goggles, boots, chest protector, gloves, a tether kill switch, number plates and nerf bars (nerfs are a must-have). In TT motor work might be a little ahead of suspension (unlike MX where I think suspension is WAY more important). Basic bolt-ons will get you pretty far tho, so if your quad rips on the trails or the dunes and already has some mods, look at tires first (if necessary) and then lowering, widening, and a sway bar. In my experience, the start can be half the race...practice your starts. Stay loose on the track and protect your lines; don't get all worked up if you're at the back or even the middle of the pack, ride smooth and just do the best you can. Spinning out or overshooting a turn will set you back alot farther than riding clean and at your own pace...getting into a collision can be even worse (and might get you an ambulance ride). I'm gonna stop rambling, but I do hope you go for it, flattracking is awesome fun and gets VERY addicting. I'm not an expert but if you have any questions just post 'em and someone will be able to help. I've got a race Sunday and can't wait to hit the track...

I run Works triple rates with no rezzies and love them. Cheapest place I could find them was C&D, 308-696-7805. I think they were $345 shipped and took about 2 weeks (that was a couple years ago, they are still holding up perfectly). For the money I don't think you can do better than Works. Anyway, I love how the triple rates soak up the small ruts, as others have said get them set up for your weight and riding style and you should be real happy with them. I don't really know how much difference the triple versus double rates make, but I think if you're under 200-250 lbs. I would go with the triples (seems like I read somewhere that the third spring isn't effective if you're heavier). Good luck.

Bring it Rod. I'll bring some duct tape; instant helmet cam, heh.

My first was an '85 TRX125 also, got it brand new in '86, loved that thing and rode it to death but it never complained... Sold it to get a car and came back around a few years later, had an '88 TRX300, then an '86 TRX250R, a '99 TRX300 4x4, and now I just have my '96 Banshee, which I'll never part with.

ROFL! Now all they need is pink inner tubes with a triangle of carpet glued on to go with it...

No the K&N should slip right over the adapter plate flange... You either got an adapter plate for a foam filter (different filter I.D.) or they gave you the wrong K&N.

I think it would be awesome. About the video quality, I'm no expert but I do know to get professional results like Huevos flicks you gotta have a mega-dollar 16mm cam...which I doubt many of us have layin' around. On the other hand, if someone was to put together a downloadable movie (mpg or mov) I think camcorder quality (even VHS) would suffice. If someone was willing to do the editing I would damn sure be down for it...and if you're gonna go through all the trouble make it DVD (like use DVD-R's). I'd buy one. BTW I'm taking my cheap VHS-C camcorder to Dumont for Roostfest, can't guarantee good footage but footage nonetheless. I've got a few short clips now but nothing spectacular (TT races, maybe some local dunes, some old 4X4 quad clips from back in the day)...pretty sure one TT race has a good clip of a sweet holeshot where I completely annihilated a YFZ, hehe.

ROFL Meat!!!! I feel your pain man, sometimes it seems like no matter what you do Windows has a personal vandetta against you and won't budge...keep trying! I got that same screen the first time, but after a minute I got a popup saying to download something and then it worked...yeah I know big help but I might add one thing: don't EVER get in a hurry using XP, it takes it's sweet damn time (I'm convinced it can detect frustration and runs slower the more it pisses you off)...maybe see if you can get that screen and give it a minute or twenty... BTW I've been there the last few days and it's awesome talkin' to these guys, I don't consider myself much of a conversationalist but I was laffin' the whole time (I might have even got Brooke a little worked up last night, hehe)...

Looks great Oilsmoke!

You need air, fuel, spark and compression...try to think of what's missing. If the air filter isn't completely clogged (or removed when you tried ether), it should have started on ether, so that leaves spark and compression. I guess I'd double check compression first, if that's OK check for spark; if no spark start simple with the kill switches, make sure TORS control unit is disconnected (on frame rail above left cylinder), check all connections (stator to harness, harness to CDI, wires @ coil, key switch to harness), make sure no wires are grounding against the frame, etc. and try again for spark. If you rule out spark and compression, move on to fuel; make sure you have fuel in the tank and the petcock is "on", see if fuel is in the float bowls when you pull them, maybe check float height, and make sure the pilot and mains aren't clogged. Good luck.

"have donned thy beer goggles"...usually right before making a pass at the ugly chick at the end of the bar...

got1; when it first loads there's a blank box towards the bottom, that's where you type your name (and it changes "guest898345" or whatever in the pane on the right to whatever name you entered). Then you just type in that same box... BUT I think there's a java applet or something that has to be downloaded first, unless you use mirc, but I'm completely ignorant on such things so hopefully someone else can help you out... Yep, it was great talkin' to you guys last night, will someone get this thread PINNED so it's easy for everyone to find the link????? I should be on around 6-7pm MST every day until Roostfest, and hopefully semi-regularly after that...

Where'd you put the zerk Holyman?

I agree, backfire is usually a symptom of being lean. Are you sure the mains aren't lean? You might try going up a size on the mains and see if anything changes, once you know for sure the mains are dialed in (and not still lean, depending on temp, elevation, premix ratio, etc. I'd think you need to be in the 300-330 range for mains), if the problem persists you can try adjusting the needle clip position and see what that does. Good luck.