BenBB

D34, here's the flyer:

Meat you got a larger version of that pic? Evil how big an image do you need?

I do, hehe, ask Stan about the ancient Chinese secret... BTW it doesn't work so well when you click neutral instead of 2nd at the bottom of comp

Right on nasty, ya gotsta ride somethin'. Hope you get it goin' soon.

No that's Meat. Minkia38 has one, as does broke, rzcolobanshee, and a couple others. I can't wait to try it, might be sooner...

If all goes well I'll let ya know in June...

They should fit, with some minor modifications...at worst you'll need to cut the small pipe between the expansion chamber and the silencer stinger tube (the one with the heat shield), probably only 1/2" or a little more. I'm not 100% certain, I run stock silencers on my Fattys when I have to have a spark arrestor, and the stinger tube of the FMF silencers has a "socket" on the end that slips over the end of the expansion chamber pipe. Best I can remember, the stock silencer stinger tube doesn't have that socket, instead it's on that middle pipe...so if you cut the socket off the stock middle pipe the FMF silencers should slip right over it. Hope this helps. Oh yeah, you should not need to rejet just for the silencers, but it never hurts to double check your jetting. Worst case you could probably find some stock silencers on here or ebay for real cheap...

Use an impact on the flywheel nut, and get a flywheel remover tool. As soon as you get the flywheel nut off, flip the motor on the right side so the flywheel is pointing up and soak the center of the flywheel with your favorite flavor of parts loosening oil (WD40, 3 in 1 oil, lizard piss, etc.). If the flywheel is a bitch you might need to soak it overnight. Thread the flywheel remover into the flywheel threads as far as it will go (make sure the center bolt is backed out), the threads are fine so don't put a ton of torque on it. Then thread the center bolt in until it contacts the crank; hold the tool with a wrench and tighten the center bolt pretty snug (again, don't put an 8' cheater bar on it, they are easy to strip). Then smack the end of the puller with a hammer. Flywheel should pop off, if not tighten the center bolt a lil more and smack a few more times. If it won't budge soak it again and try it later. After you get the flywheel off, all that's left is the stator plate (3 screws), and a few other little things, assuming you got the clutch off already. Oh yeah, don't pry on the cases to separate them, you don't want to gouge the sealing surface at all; once all the nuts & bolts are off flip it over and gently smack the studs with a rubber hammer. Worst case you can gently pry at the very rear of the motor, just be careful as the aluminum is soft. Good luck.

Bummer boon. Didn't you just get that motor in the truck? Hope you get a rental, those are fun to thrash...

You might; to be on the safe side I would go up a size on the mains for the degree key, up a size on the pilots (unless you already have 30's) and go one clip position leaner on the needles (move clip up towards the blunt end) for the reeds. Every bike is a little different but that's where I'd start, alot will depend on your current mods and jetting too...

Could be the coil failing; intermittant and high-speed miss are a couple good symptoms...can you swap it with the other bike? Might be worth a try.

I like to use the carb dip (comes in a little metal bucket and isn't on the same aisle as french dip); just be sure to strip the carbs of plastic (splash shield, floats, choke) and rubber (gaskets, float needle), and the jets, let them sit in the cleaner for a while, and then blow out all the passages with compressed air. Cans of carb cleaner are OK, better than nothing, just make sure you get into all the little air passages. One other thing, do one carb at a time if you can so nothing gets reversed and if you find an extra part laying on the bench you can use the other carb for reference. And you don't need to rejet...unless you need to rejet. In other words, if it runs fine and you haven't changed anything that affects airflow (pipes, filter, etc.), don't fix it if it ain't broke. If you think it could run better, rule out any electrical or mechanical problems first, and do a plug chop to check the mains; the other circuits can be dialed in one at a time until it's perfect (details in the Jetting FAQ below). Good luck.

Mine have done that a time or two. If you look real close at the outside of the carb, there are three indentations where the aluminum is "dinged" to keep that tit thing in place. I used a chisel and a BFH and put some serious dings in mine, haven't had it back out since, just make sure it's as close to perfectly vertical as you can get it...

320 mains and 30 pilots with NO lid. 280 (or 290) mains and 27.5 pilots with the lid ON, that's where I'd start and dial it in from there, might need a main size larger or smaller and playing with the airscrews will tell you on the pilots, but it should be in the ballpark.

Do you really need the airbox lid on? If so, 280 mains should be close, and maybe 27.5 pilots, 30's might be too rich. If you ditch the airbox lid then yes, I'd start with 320 mains and 30 pilots and go from there, should be a safely rich starting point. Good luck.

I agree with everyone else; 6th will also have the most load on the motor...try 310's.

Perfect world: 1 built Banshee, 1 mildly modded YFZ450, 1 Grizz to haul the cold ones....ahh Nirvana, someday

Dirtgrrl, did you get the same one 00Banshee posted? For $20?!? I see them on ebay all the time for $40, cfm performance I think, I need one to replace the one I made and $20 is a damn good price...89 bansheedude how much? Same deal with grease zerks and you re-use the steel bushings? Let me know... Anyway, if you haven't got it on already Dirtgrrl, here's what I do: get the quad on a stand so the rear tires are off the ground. Use a tie down strap from the grab bar to either the rear axle or the skid plate (the stock skidplate has the perfect spot to hook onto). Ratchet the strap just a little to get tension off the bolts for the stock linkage. Loosen the upper and lower "dogbone" bolts at the swingarm and the rear shock linkage. Loosen the lower shock bolt. Remove the two bolts for the stock dogbone, install the new link on the rear shock link loosly, and then use the ratchet strap to raise the rear end to whatever hole you wont to hit on the linkage at the swingarm mount. I leave the rubber bumper on the swingarm and if necessary use a 10" crescent as leverage on the top of the new link to get the bolt hole lined up. Tighten all 3 bolts and remove the strap, that's it. Good luck.

$$$ is always my deciding factor; if you've got the bucks don't hold back. You can always take it easy until you get used to the power increase (and that which doesn't kill us makes us stronger, heh). If not, do what you can, not sure what you've got for mods but: start with a fresh topend ($220 or so), shave the head ($30), new reeds ($40 or so), port the reed cages (free), find some pipes & silencers ($100-$400 depending), air filter setup ($30-$70), and dial in the jetting. Also make sure you've got decent rear tires and gearing for your application; all the power in the world won't help if you can't get it to the ground...

Damn Wallrat, glad you didn't lose yer head at work man! Want me to send ya my hardhat? I got a buddy that'll airbrush "caution; magnetic media" on it too...

How's this Meat?

I THINK the thread is 8mm, not sure the pitch but it's coarse so my guess is 1.0...I know for sure the factory lug nuts are a flanged nut and take a 14mm socket; sorry that's the best I can do. I got a list of every bolt & nut size for my RZ motor, not that it would help, but the reed cage bolts are 6mm x 25mm 1.0, so I think 8mm is what yer after, maaaaybe 10mm...

SICK. The video is on Sandbros.com, go to this link and then download: http://www.sandbros.com/files/flip/

Meat, that's the pic I wanted to use but I didn't see it on your site...lemme work on that one and I'll post it later today. Evil, Coalfest is looking like mid-July, still not sure if the dates are set or not but at the earliest June I think (somebody correct me if I'm wrong). I'm thinking if the designs are one color it's cheaper & easier to silkscreen, right? Not sure on quantities yet, might hafta start another thread once the design is complete... Bigairee, looks great! Is that vynil? Bansheefreak, check out the "Riding & Events" forum, there's a couple threads about Coalfest...

Boonman; YES. Need someone to make 'em and sell 'em...I just want one or two.