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shouldn't you be starting the sled for the season heath, it should snow pretty soon it already did up north

check to see if the pressure plate on the clutch is on right, theres 6 ways it will go on and only one of them works, I had the same problem until i was told this

heres my custom rotor JD did

I dont see why it wont work Im pretty sure its the same chassis just different suspension set up

So what exactly are you wanting to know? As far as pipes though the T-5's will be holding back that cub, especially if its a stroker, and the T-6's are definantly going to hold anything more than stock with a few bolt ons back. The T-5's would be better than the 6's but I would suggest some shearer's or CPI's. As far as carbs lets say you did a 421 cub set-up for a drag motor you could go with atleast 35mm carbs I would say some 37 or 38's would serve you well even with a little bigger motor like a 485 or something similar

The best bang for your buck will be pipes, porting, and timing

if your clutch is slipping then yeah just replace the discs and fibers

AK already covered this for you, but let me some it up in other words. Dont do a a spacer plate thats the cheap way, get a cool head and get some stroker cut domes for it. Im assuming you meant aggressive trail port, you'll have to get the dimensions on the ports to be able to tell if you can port it for a 4mil. and there is more to it then just droping the ports. What I'd do is call a builder that is experienced with this stuff Jeff at F.A.S.T. and Kevin at Herr Juggs Racing are good joices, my personal preference and who I had do my 4mil set up is Brandon at Wildcard Racing, his number is in my sig. but all 3 are great choices and know what it takes to make a strong 4mil motor

I like 'em tyler. I think the bigger logo on the front and sponsors on the back was a good idea.

I tell you what give Brandon at Wildcard a call and tell him I sent you, for whatever your looking for man

Well this is due to our lack of proper leadership in the government. We owe so much to other countries they got to pay it back somehow, yet were not getting any where. The government doesn't know what a budget is so we keep getting deeper. I know how you feel though man. Just wait though the taxes are going to just continue up wards until we either have a huge emergency like another world war or are economy completely crashes. At which point we will start to try and get rid of our defecit

A dremel with a carbide cutting tip and a couple different files works the best that I've found. No one to my knowledge has actually dyno tested ported reeds, however they are better than stock and comparable to VF3 and a whole lot cheaper. From what what I've learned most of the power is made from modifying the area on the cage where the reed tips are and what petals you run for your application. Depending on what petals your running will depend on how much you can do and what you can do to the cage. Im not a pro at porting reed cages by any means, but I have done a few on a few different vehicles and a few sets for a banshee so I can help out if you guys need it.

did you take the carbs apart and check them?

yeah looks pretty good man. you can open the tops up a little more if you want though

Hey Heath, where have you been riding... Sounds like fun! but you know Im going to have to check that front end out when you get it finished man.

First thing I would do is make sure your pressure plate is on correctly. It will go on 6 ways and only 1 of them work right. when I was replacing my clutch before teardown I had the same problem and thats what is was after you make sure thats fine, the clutch arm has a mark on it that lines up with a mark on the case, adjust it to make sure those line up then try your clutch. You may still have a little adjusting to do to get the play out of it but that should get you close.

Some wiseco Pro-lite pistons (513 series)

Yeah you'll be just fine, even if you upgraded you radiator you'll be fine.

option 2 is probably a little more reliable just because its stock cyl. and stock stroke, but either one will be very reliable as long as you take care of it and dont just ride it till it stops. Option 1 will make more power, but as already stated you'll need bigger carbs and different pipes eventually. If it were me I would go with option one, because it will be reliable but with alot more power than option 2

The DS has alot of motor, but you should be fine

depending on where you live your main jet size could be a little different, so I cant give you an exact number, I would say pull your mains and see what they are and go up about 5 sizes so if you have 210 try 260's then do a plug chop and go from there as this may be a little rich or a little lean

sorry to hear it wasnt what you thought, but on the bright side you have a winter project and the fun part is wrenching on it :biggrin:

That's awsome. looks great man

you might be able to run a size smaller in the domes and bump up the timing another notch or 2 if you run like 113 octane constantly. but I would say tuning and finding the right gearing will fix your problem