278

Oh I gotch you, where are you getting it at? I think Im just going to run supreme mixed with race gas. I got to do some shopping though for the best place to get it.

Well it was when I was missing the rubber crossover between carbs for the choke so it was running lean on one side and rich on the other. Then I took out the silencer inserts then got the shee running right and didnt put them back in while the motor was in the frame. But I put them back in now

I read an arcticle last year and they did a test on all the octane boosters and found out none of them do shit, except there was one that boosted your octane like 2 points. I would call ATV salvage I heard he sells race fuel, or (as much as I hate to say this) Anchorage Drag Bike and get some race gas and mix it. At ADB it's like 10.75 a gal. and with 50/50 mix with supreme it comes out I think its 100 octane. or you could even call Meril Field and get some AV gas

the reason why Brandon was asking you for the bore and fuel type for your new domes because the size of the domes is going to depend on this. As far as if your current domes are going to matter... it depends on your compression.

I know someone can use these parts

Nice, yeah my shee kind of sounded like a mesquito on steroids, or a sled with a can before I tore the motor down again.

Breaking the alaska way of duct tape huh haha, just kidding. You could always do like what I did with my Toomy's. I like shit loud, and figured we have no noise laws so why have to replace packing. I cut a piece of copper tubing that has an O.D. that mathces the I.D. of the silencer to fit inside each silencer that fits just enough to were when I bolt the stinger to the silencer it is tight. Might be harder to do with the PC's, I'd just take the core out and run them like that. BTW rocky mountain has Dial-a-jets, I saw them when I was looking at intakes yesterday

I was just thinking that normally your suppose to match everything in the motor up so it all flows smoothly, well since im going to use the stock reeds and the intake im getting is smaller and round and designed for VF3 reeds I would think that opening the back side of the intake up and making it square so it matches my reeds. BTW AK how did your bike run out at Jim's

Yup, only 20 minutes of runtime

BUMP

anyone?

Order one of the new wiseco ATV catelogs, the expalin it all, they have an ATV honing brush and they suggest using 280 grit, and explain how do to it with the PV's

the problem is that the intake is a circle and smaller than the large rectangular reeds, I know the intake will helps smooth things out but its a big drop and that just doesn't make sense... that the drop I thought will actually reduce performance.

gregrob made a post about whether the different intake manifolds are worth it... I was planning on getting one from Jeff at FAST for my 4mil. build, it's the one thats got the 4 sections inside og the intake and the built in crossover. My question is, the sectioning thing seems like it would just get in the way of flow, and they are round in the back instead of square like the stock cages, since I am going to be running my stock ported cages, so can I port the intake to make it taper outwards going towards the motor so it is a smooth transition from the carb to reeds instead of a drop?

Intake sold!

Everything is as pictured except for the carbs they come with jets which i did not take a picture of. everything comes ready to be installed.

All prices + shipping and 3% paypal fee. Will post pics tomorrow or PM for pics sent to your email. STD. bore pistons- $95 Stock carbs with TORS box's, includes 310, 320, 330, stock main jets, 27.5, stock pilots- $30 stock intakes with cross over- $10 stock air box, special cut lid for more flow w/filter- $15

If you are looking for easier tuning then I guess you should go with it, however Snop did a dyno test on the different set-ups and found that the 2-1 makes the same power on the low to mid as a dual carb set-up and the reason people feel it does more is because you lose a few HP on the top end. But like Misssppelllleddd said its ultimately up to you

Crank has been accounted for, $115 shipped on the pistons I know someone can use them!

I've heard both good and bad about him. Here's what most of these guys are going to tell you... call around and see who your most comfortable with. I would call Brandon at wildcard (number in my sig.) Kevin at Herr jugs and Jeff at FAST. See who you like all 3 of them are great guys, do awsome work and will help you with anything. I just personally prefer Brandon for my work

Just took mine off for powder coating and had to put them back on. The best way I've found is take the rings off with a pair of needle nose pliers then just pull them off they're not stuck on there. Then when you put them back on push the bottom down and only about half of it will go around the lip where its suppose to be, then us the needle nose to pull the other half onto the lip. May I also suggest instead of using the rings use safety wire, the kind that you use to put your handle bar grips on. Because the rings are a pain in the ass. You just take the wire and cut a piece then put it where the ring goes and twist it on there tight with the needle nose.

Dropping a dome size to 18's will definantly drop the compression, but I'd say alot of it may have to do with the guage, different guages can range like 10 sometimes even 15 PSI. That and every bike will be different

I think it has to do with cooling properties of the shocks. The piggy back will run hotter, but other than that I dont think there is a difference