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I dont know of any equations, but call a builder like Brandon at Wildcard and find out what measurements they need to know then take the measurements and give them to the builder, They should be able to do somewhat of a guess, but remember "one builders aggressive dune port, is anothers mild drag port"

Yeah Brandon and his wife are great people to work with and they know their stuff. Sound about right as far as the porting. Good luck with the build man and if you have anymore questions feel free to ask.

I just sent you a PM but yeah basically if your just compensating for the 4mil that all you really have to do

papa smurf is a good guy but he is being a little harsh. Porting can be done just dont expect as good of results as you would if you sent them out. Idk what type of riding you do but i think a trail port from Wildcard is around $230, and an aggressive dune port for a 4mil is around $270-280. Dont quote those numbers but im close with them, you can call Brandon and Shay and ask. The other good builders that i would send my stuff to ie. Herr Juggs and F.A.S.T. are close on pricing too. Just saying by the time you buy all the books, spend all the time learning and doing it yourself, plus buying all the right tools youll spend maybe 150-200, but I think youll be way happier sending them out. With that said if you really want to do them yourself all the more power to ya' eventually i will try some porting myself, but I did sned my cylinders to Wildcard and dont expect to get results even close. As far as advice... dont epoxy anything, not any of the 3 builders i named do this and they are considered to be some of the top builders. As far as builders who do "big block" banshees like K&T or RDZ i dont think any of them do what you are saying either. I would say you have alot to learn before you start grinding on your cylinders. You have to figure out what pipes your going to run, what kind of riding you do, what your other mods will be etc. there are alot of variables. Your not just removing material also you're re-shaping the ports. Im not a pro but if you figure out those variables i can help you. PM me if you'd like and maybe I can help you out with your porting

PM loco, maybe you can just post them up in like a link and make them downloadable, because i would mind having a copy of them also

Use the search feature there is quite a few of these topics. In fact there one that is still being posted alot call 4mil porting, which is relating to a 4mil stroker build, but theres a lot of info in there. Basically the only way to learn is, read alot on here and theres some 2 stroke porting books to read. Talk to alot of the well known builders on here and try to pick their brains as much as theyll allow. And Practice. One of the biggest things you need to realize before you get started is.... porting is not just taking material off. It really is an art form that takes years and multiple sets of juggs to be able to do it right. You have to know the math of the engine such as the port durations and flow characteristics, know how to calculate all the math, know what different parts will effect the math, know how what material you take out or reshape will effect this math etc. Here's a link to some basic kind of starting info. MacDizzy

I guess shee freak knew who i was talking about. I knew there was some builders that have had good luck with turboed banshees. So it can definately be done. If you like going fast then i would say youll definately do it with this thing.

Here's a link to some basic porting and engine mapping info. that was posted on the HQ a while back MacDizzy

This is definitely not one of the easier motors to run a turbo on for sure. I think thats part of what makes it a good project, just make sure you cover everything you need to, as far as making sure the motor will handle the power ex. studs, pistons, bottom end etc. and make sure you take your time. If Im not mistaken there is a guy who has got multiple banshees to run turbos, or at least i think there is a builder. Maybe someone will read this and knows who im talking about. Idk if i agree on the 1300+ cc 2-stroke. I've seen many 800cc 2 stroke sleds. Arctic Cat M8's make a great platform for this, that would be one hell of a transplant to do on a banshee. as far as 4 stroke, thats a different story. On quads i would say only do the Craptor 700's, as i dont know of many other successful turboed quads. on sleds Ive seen alot of the '07 and newer phazers done but its hard to keep those motors together, my choice would be the motor in the new Yamaha Nytro's or the '04 or newer Apex mountains. Your not planning on running alot of boost, 5-8 psi is pretty low, so i would say you should be pretty safe with this motor as long as you cover everthing as far as durability, like i said. If it was me building a turboed banshee... I'd go billet everything, but that gets real expensive real fast. I think a set of Matoon billet cases is like $1800-2000 so if you were going billet you could easily spend $7000-10000 on the motor which i dont think your looking to do. Good luck with this build though

Its not necessarily a bad idea. Its a hard thing to do properly. Porting isn't just removing material it really is an art. You have to understand the mathematics of the motor, do the proper calculations, remove material in the in the right places, shape the ports in the right way, and understand the material you removed or places you reshaped are part of the motors mathematical equation and you have to know how what you do will effect your numbers, also almost any change in motor performance and elevation will effect your air/fuel, which has to be taken into consideration when porting. So a good understanding of how different parts will effect flow and what different pipe set-ups work best for the different port durations are also something you need to have. Its alot of work, but you have to start some where, all good builders did.

"Speed cost money, how fast do you want to go?? " this is one of the best gear head sayings in my opinion. The 10 mil. super cub is going to make the most power, however it is the most expensive, and you will spend some serious money on it. If you have the money go for it though

First check to make sure your even getting spark.

As stated, dont use a base plate. Get a cool head and a set of cut domes. Here's a link to some helpful porting info. porting Brandon at Wildcard gave this info. talking about a 4mil. so it should help. You should call and talk to some of the different builders on HQ here and see if you can pick their brains a little. DOnt get discouraged after this first port job either, its taken good builders many years of research and developement and many sets of ported juggs to be as good as they are. It may take you multiple sets of juggs to get close to your desired performance. Good luck man!

X2 on agreeing with your picks loco, but i think Randy may TKO or submit coleman in the 3rd. He likes to wear his opponents down then make his move.

First why are you trying to close up the ports? Ass far as JB weld, i think it would work and Ive heard of it being used but there is some better stuff. Talk to some builders and see what they use in the case halfs to epoxy and port match them. Also I cant remember exactly what it was, maybe this person will chime in, but there was a guy on here talking about a filler that they used on the cylinders of huge ships like oil tankers and stuff, that he suggested using so maybe thats something to look into too.

This is an awsome project. I know there have been alot of people who have tried but havn't succeeded. I know theres got to be some guys on here that have put turbos on other small engine vehicles such as a snowmachine or Raptor 700. If we can get some of them to chime in, and some guys that even deal with turbos on their car or truck to chime in like camatv did, it could help alot. You off to a good start man!

I'm hoping that the Colts win because that's my team, however I think the Saint's defense may ruin that. Here's an example... My high school team had the strongest defense in the state. They ran over everyone. Now when we played the 3 top ranked schools in the state we beat one of the teams and the other 2 we lost one by a touch down and the other by a 3 point conversion, both of which were bull shit calls and even the news stations didnt know why the ref allowed the stuff they did. Long story short we went on to state and won against the second ranked team in state because our defense ran all over them. I believe if the Saints are on their game this is what will happen to Indianapolis.

Ill ride with ya' man when i get the shee up this summer. Dont do alot of hill climbing, but i guess i wont learn unless i do it more. I know there use to be a kid on here from eagle river, but he left once he bought his YFZ. There was also some military guys on here a while back, havnt heard fom either of those 2 in a while so I dont know if theyre on the HQ or even in AK anymore. But I dont know, unless you went to like the motocross races on sundays and started hanging out down there. Maybe contact the racing lions or something

As Big Red explained, you have to find a balance with carbs. The one size fits all definately doesn't apply. As you make more power and in turn increase air/fuel flow, you will need bigger carbs. However, you can "over carb" an engine. This is where finding the balance between the velocity of incoming air/fuel, and pushing as much fuel and air into the motor as you can. The best thing to answer your carb questions is to use a reputable builder (we have some of the best here on the HQ) and see what they suggest for carbs. The size will depend on your porting, exhaust, elevation, and generally how the motor is built. As far as 2 into 1 carb set-ups, many people have said they believe there is an increase in low end power, however Snop. does have dyno tuning numbers to show that all your really doing is cutting some of your top end. So the only real advantage to this set-up is simpler tuning, but its only a good option if you ride tight trails and only need low end.

Just surious, on what you can do besides a normal drag port?

You dont need to change anything for the timing. As far as the plate go with Rickystator, In the near future you may want to look at a cool-head with smaller domes. As far as the shifting it will just take some getting use to with the gears... You can shift in while on the hill but its really hard to keep momentum so try hitting the hill in a higher gear, and/or feathering the clutch a little.

I havnt tried this myself but Krylon makes this stuff called Krylon Fusion and its suppose to work well on plastics. Many people on here have tried it and said it works good, because its suppose to bond to the plastic instead of just covering it.

In my opinion you should go with the 4mil. if you have the money or want a project for a little while. Eventually your going to want more power, and take it from me personally going 4 mil. will save you money in the long run because in a year or 2 youll want to go 4mil.

Everyone has there own opinion, and i know sometimes you dont have any other choices, but to buy from china or Japan. However, I try to buy American as much as possible. The quality is just far better i dont care what your buying. Of course theres some exceptions, like chinese food lol. For the most part though, things made in the US are built better. The Gov't is trying to put a program together that allows people to buy US products and increases sales so manufacturers will start producing more things here. I forget the website but there is a women that is helping with this project in the private sector and created a website to where you can find pretty much everything that goes in or on your house made in the US. We'll see what happens, but I think its a good idea.

Its the same thing. Vibrations wont make a difference unless the pipe is resting against the frame or something then it might rub, but if there installed right they shouldn't be. So go ahead and get them coated. There is also all kinds of cool stuff you can do yourself. They make stuff like the dupli-color cermaic coat paints, and the VHT ceramic coat paints that you can buy at an auto parts store and bake your self. Just an idea. Also if you coat them yourself you can run the bike through heat cycles which bakes the caoting on too. just an idea because then you have color options and if you can get them sand blasted for cheap or have access to a blaster then it will be alot cheaper. Some thing i did too, was i had my T-5's blasted then I taped them of, and used a label printer and did my last name and taped it to where my last name, the T5 sign were the only things being sprayed but the T5 sign have like a racing strip almost coming off of them. And use the VHT black then baked them then used dupli colors high temp clear coat and now they change colors and came out with like black wording with like a gun metal grey and when it its the light they have like a gold metalic almost look to them and when they heat up they turn goldish. Just some ideas for ya' man