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You did a nice job on those Heath... one thing i do have to add is it will depend on the petals your using as well. If you are going to use the dual stage reeds, the petals on the bottom have a center support that matches the center support on your reed cages. If you do use these you can take about 3/16" of that center support on the cage out from the reed tip area up. I ported my old set the way Heath did and am trying this new set with the 3/16" removed on my 4mil. The reed tip area of the cage is the most crucial part when porting cages as Heath already sort of stated and by doing this you will be able to move more flow through the cages. Some may argue your weakening the cage and will break petals, but as long as you only take 3/16-1/4" out and didnt remove too much around the edges theres no reason they should break.

Im on my second of 2 motors that i built, last one I had Brandon true/weld the crank. The guy that did my porting and other work kind of screwed me I didnt trust that guys work so that combined with wanting to go bigger, I decided to go 4mil. Brandon did the porting and 95% of the parts have been through him on this one. He the only builder I use now. Great guy and will help you with anything whether he does work for you or not.

It would do the first one sometimes when upshifting but then if i turned the small gear set like another turn it would go in, but sometimes when dropping into first the gears would feel like theres and extra load on them then it would kind of pop and it would be fine. but since i did nothing to the gears and the drum and forks are right, I think these problems are just from inconsistant turning and stopping turning the gears in the middle of shifts and what not

Yeah thats what i figured, as long as the forks and drum are in it should be good. Im just being perinoid because i dont want to have to pull it aparts again. Well i guess the crank and rest of the bottom end goes in tomorrow

Alright guys so i started finally putting my 4mil. together and I've got most of the bottom end in place. However before proceding I want to check the tranny and make sure i have all the gears. I first just shifted through without the actual gears installed to make sure the drum and forks were in the right place. Then i put the gears on, set the top half in place and tried to shift through the gears while spinning the small gear set by hand. i checked multiple times. A couple times i got all 6 gears with no trouble, but most of the time I could only get to 3rd and sometimes 4th gear, then when down shifting when i went to go into 1st it had alot of drag then almost like popped then it seemed to work normal. Now i know you have to have the engine running normally to be able to shift, which is why since i got all 6 gears a couple times I figured these problems were just because spinning it by hand is inconsistant and sometimes i would have to stop and make sure the shifter is still in place. Am i right and should i proceed or is there something wrong with the tranny?

If you still have your TORS system remove it, then try actually dropping the pilot jet size.

that would be awsome, unfortunately my plates keep getting either beat up or ripped of because I like to have some 4x4 fun with my bronco so I wouldnt get one until the end of this summer when I get my new truck.

You want to run a a good quality oil in your motor. Yamalube, castor 927, and Klotz supertechniplate are all good ones that people run I'd say the 2 most popular are the castor or Yamalube. Use the same oil for break in that your going to run in your motor all the time for example... If your planning on running the Klotz, then use the klotz during break in. As far as break in goes, everyone has a different way of doing it. But what I do is fire it up and run it till it warms up to aperating temp. (usually like 5-10 minutes) but dont let it idle and dont rev it way up just vary the throttle. I repeat this about 4 or 5 times.

Sorry to here about it man. Hopefully everything works out for ya' BUMP for a great guy and and awsome deal

X2 on this advice. Only difference I would say is try to find a used Elka for the rear, because unless you do the re-valve on the rear your self it'll be a couple hundred, and if you shop around fleebay for a while you should be able to find one for like 300-400

Theres quite a few things, that you can get rid of... Any tabs or mounts that you aren't going to use. Alot of people also like to re-locate the CDI and electronics from the back under the seat mount to the front somewhere. You have to build a bracket or cut the one from the back and re-weld it to the front. It helps clean it up cuz it hides the box and you dont have wires stretching from front to back

Well it depends on what kind of riding you do. Rockets aren't really top end pipes so you want to stick with that mid port you have. What might help is, can we get a list of mods you have

T-5's if I remember right really start doing well right around 185-187 on up to about the range your in, the rockets I believe start doing well at a little higher but the 194 duration I believe is in that range of the rockets

Im not sure what the duration should be at for port duration on the Rockets. Im assuming that if your at 194* on the exhaust that you have a dune port, right around a good mid dune port... I do know of a few people that have dune port 4mil. motors that went from Toomey T-5s to Rockets and loved them.

If you are considering going stroker you mise well do it now, in a short period of time after your build you will want to go to a 4mil. As far as wether or not it can be re-ported for the stroker... In most cases no, but it depends on how agressive the port is. The first MX motor I built I had a local builder port and he ported it very conservatively, so when I decided I wanted to go 4mil. Brandon at Wildcard Racing was able to do a re-port on it. Most of the time this wont happen though and you'll have to get a new set of jugs for a stroker build. I would say with your current mods your looking more like 45HP give or take a couple. I say this because with my fully built MX port motor I was estimated at about 50-55HP give or take a couple HP. I think You will ultimately be most happy with a fully built 4mil. with an MX port or even mild dune port. Call different builders and talk to them about what you want, then pick the one your most comfortable with. Brandon at Wildcard Racing, Jeff at F.A.S.T. and Kevin at Herr Juggs Racing are 3 well known builders I have done business with and would recomend all 3, but only you can choose who your most comfortable with.

Yeah If you have an MX port already and all of that your set up pretty good for trails... Maybe an adjustable timing plate, cool head, and maybe some carbs... You should focus more on your suspension now

I have heard this as well, but mine was from a builder. I have a set that I ported and made the center bar very thin, I have another set I am working on now on which I am removing 1/4 inch of the center bar, from the end towards the peak of the cage. You do not want to remove the whole center bar but You can safely remove a small part of it.

Havn't bought any in a while, but call maxima and find out. It could be a change in formula or something happened in the production process.

In my experience it depends on how the porting is done. There are alot of people who have tried many different cage porting configurations as opposed to VF3's or chariot cages. CHariot has done alot of flow testing and has come out with a cage that on paper out performs VF3's. My personal oppinion due to price tag is port the stockers and go with petals that are designed for the riding you plan to do. The new chariot cage is also something I would go with if you wanted to spend a little more money. As far as the VF3's unless your running a full drag motor they are not worth the cash and even still the chariots are cheaper. However, if you are not trying to fine tune your motor as much as drag racers do, for example MX riding or dune riding, stockers or blaster cages ported properly will perform as well as the others at a cheaper price.

I was mad when I saw it. I was going for Shogun to and I definately think someone is in the judges pockets, but whats done is done, I guess now Shogun will have to challenge Mochida and knock him out this time

This skin is awsome... good job on this one loco

you can just put it in a box with bubble wrap and foam peanuts... 2 comp 12's probably do rattle the hell out of the window, 1 comp 10 in my friends truck running off a 1000 watt amp and it rattles his shit. I bet the 12's would sound better with a little bigger amp, wish I had the cash though... Good luck with the sale man

you said it yourself you want the best, therefore get the best... go with the rezzies

welcome to the HQ, you should post up more pics of that car, thats a sick Audi

yeah got rid of mine a couple years back, would like to get a new one soon though