BdBanshee

I have a friend that had the same thing happen, only it happened the 2nd day we were at Glamis 1400 plus miles from home! I found that there was too much clearance between the "e" clip and the plastic gear. I guess it was letting the drive pin come out of the drive slot in the gear. I made him a thicker washer out of S.S. and it has run fine since. With new parts assemble it and take a feeler gauge set and see what size feeler gauge will fit between washer and drive gear without being too tight. E-mail me the thickness and I'll make you a thicker S.S. washer to replace the stock washer. BdBanshee@yahoo.com

I went with Ricky Stator tie rods and ends, way stronger and they were $199 for everything. Here is a link to the parts with pics and a comparison to stock. Ricky Stator Tie Rods

Here's a pic of mine, and I'll be pulling a Wanderer Wagon 5th wheel with a Bronze Dodge 4x4

I'm heading over the evening of the 8th, staying until Sunday the 12th.

It will make quite a difference, advance the timing at least +4 though.

Will it bolt on to a RD bottom end? I would think that the hole patterns for the studs and the centerlines of the cylinders would be different. Are you putting this in a Banshee? 750cc 2 stroke Banshee, that would be cool............

Make sure whoever does it makes a tapered fixture to mount the flywheel on when machining it. This is important so that the flywheel spins perfectly concentric with the crankshaft when you re-install it on your Banshee. I remove about 9 oz. from the outside diameter of a Banshee flywheel, and a couple more when I machine slots in the face. And always use the correct thread in style puller!

PM Boonman, he has done a few.

Have fun guys! I'll be going over next Wednesday the 8th.

If you can't afford a roundhouse swingarm, buy a 1989-present year axle carrier. They have a much better design with only two bolts.

Maybe you didn't get the pressure plate on right. I've seen people do that before!

I wouldn't recommend regular haulers to anyone, they don't last. Almost everyone I know has had them lose several paddles in just a few dune trips. We are having good luck with the Extremes.

If you guys stay over a few extra days I'll ride with you.............

Something else is wrong, nobody I know has ever had that problem after advancing the timing.

I can modify the stocker to advance +5 degrees, PM for details.

Shiftstar is a good mod, but doesn't give you anymore acceleration, unless you count the better shifting. Shaved head, lightened flywheel, and advanced timing all wake the Banshee up and still maintain reliability, at least in my opinion.

Don't forget that it also depends on what color powerbands the Banshee is using too.

Those look cool. I have some Quicksand SS wave rotors on mine and they work great. No problems, and the price was good too.

I also use WD40, if it was good enough for Dean Sundahl to use on his Baja winning Banshee, it's good enough for mine.

Just like Rare said, the top frame hoop bends very easy with a crash. Pull it back forward until the bolt holes in the plastic line up.

It's pretty simple, just set it up to remove the same amount over the entire gasket surface (.030"). Don't clamp it down by any means that will stress the metal so that when you unclamp it it won't be flat like it was when clamped. That sounded confusing! Try to set it up so when machined it is in a relaxed state, is that any better? It's a good cheap mod. Enjoy.

Made my Day!

Word!

I cut several coils off the springs inside my 34mm PJ's too, made it much easier.

I used to run my 34mm PJ's with the airbox, so you should be able to rig up the 28's. I think you will have less power with the airbox when each setup is jetted correctly.