BdBanshee

Your low end power is going to be determined by your porting, pipes, and how close you get it jetted. I have ridden Banshee's with 34/35 mm Keihins that used to have 28's, that had just as much power on bottom and a lot more on top. I bet you'll like it, I know I do.

If you want to put it back on the way it was, take the longest plug wire and connect it to the left side plug(if you were sitting on it) and the shorter wire on the right side.

Here you go, a pic of the newest style JD Performance D-arm.

I do have the JD Performance +2 +1 A and D arms. Although I did have a few problems with the 1st 3 sets, the new design upper D arm is holding up very well. With their kit you will have to ream your spindles, they will do this for free if you send yours to them. After riding with this kit and new front shocks, you will not believe how much better it handles.

I have had several spark plug caps go bad, if that's the problem it is a cheap and easy fix. I carry a few in my toolbox all the time!

Do yourself a favor and let someone who knows how, lighten your flywheel. A new one cost almost $400 and there are many ways to ruin it!

That's correct. Don't forget to reset the gap between the pulse coil and flywheel.

That's sweet!

Sure you can use the pic, anything to help out us electrically challenged!

Put a gusset/brace in front of the steering stop before getting it powdercoated. I forgot on mine and it keeps bending forward............

I modify them to +5 degrees all the time, here is a pic:

A shorter lever will have less leverage, whick makes the pull harder. Also, try using a cable luber and lubing the clutch cable. Makes a big difference!

If the only damage is the pulse triggers being slightly damaged on the edges, than I feel like it would work fine.

Yeh, what he said.

I have only lightened stock Yamaha Banshee flywheels, no experience with the Ricky Stator replacements. I do not know the diameter of the magnets in the Ricky Stator flywheels, so I will not be able to lighten one without the chance of ruining it.

The throttle side front tire looks like it is laying horizontal!

I don't know what your package was worth, but you automatically get $100 insurance when you ship with UPS. Maybe you can collect.

The flywheels come from the factory with the balance holes, because they are molded and not machined on the outside. When I machine a flywheel the tool always seems to touch in the same spot as the balance holes are drilled. This is because the flywheel has more material in that spot which is the reason for the holes. After I machine a flywheel it is dead on true with the crankshaft and any high spots are machined off. Like Boonman said, many of the flywheels don't have any balance holes at all. I have had both kinds on my Banshee when testing and there is no more vibration after I lighten them than there was before. I hope this helps............

Didn't you just love the way they ragged on the Banshee for starting so poorly! They said that they kicked and kicked to get it started till they were almost worn out. What a bunch of crap, mine almost always starts on the 1st kick, and it always has. That article was almost as biased as the old 400ex vs Banshee article, which BTW said the 400EX would beat the Banshee in a drag race. I still have a subscription to Dirt Wheels just to see what new quads and products come out, the shootouts are too biased.

They don't make Keihin jets that large, you have to start drilling them out after like 240 or somewhere near there. For comparison I have the same carbs with a ported motor running clamp-ons, and I have 180 mains.

Without seeing it I can't tell for sure, but most likely it will be ok. If you send me a pic of the damaged area I will give you my opinion on how bad it is. Those pulse triggers can be turned down some to clean them back up like new, I have fixed many of them.

I'm up for meeting up! We are going to camp at Cowboy camp, I'll post a pic of my rig later so you will know what to look for. KG8, there will probably be a few red/black shee's, need more info. Sredish, heal up Bro. Led, get yours put together and come on over.

When you are finished with the intakes, mask off the cylinder and sandblast or beadblast the walls of the intake. It makes a smooth but yet rippled finish that the incoming mixture won't collect on.

You will need to get new shocks valved for the wider a-arms.