Lepew

They probably were only worth $100. There is no bushings in either end of both shocks. I wonder why.

You can purhase plates and discs individualy. I always order my parts and have them delivered. Are the cushions still in the clutch? I have never been able to use them in a stock clutch. They seem to cause a lot of drag which prevents the clutch from releasing enough to shift into gear. I run stock clutchs without the cushion rings. If anyone knows how to install the cushions and get the clutch to work let me know for curiosity. I tried what seemed like everything to make them work and the fix was to remove them.

I think when you resleeve a banshee cylinder you do not cut out all the original steel sleeve, so It will appear you have a sleeve in a sleeve. I seem to remember that from LA Sleeves website. Maybe somebody can confirm that. Fouledout421 I took you would sell junk on ebay to pass it on when I read you post. I hope if you sold cylinders like that you would desribe them correctly.

By chance I ended up in his shop in vegas, there was a awsome Lonestar banshee being assembled with a red frame and lots of chrome and quads hanging from the ceiling. Best shop I have been to so far.

I though we were talking about the ball joint tapered stud. From your photo I see what were talking about now. Get new nuts and make sure they are tight, maybe add some locktight after cleaning the threads with a good cleaner. The thread size is big enough they should not come loose.

You can drill thru a nut, thread it on the ball joint stud and use it as a drill guide to keep the drill centered on the stud threads.

You can only increase the bore size about 1.5 mm. If you bore it on the same axis as the original bore then the slide may not close enough to idle it down. That leaves going up with the bore axis but will the slide open far enough? I had a set on a bike I bought that were already bored to 28mm and they leaked air around the slide and had idle problems.

Look it up in the dictionary, he used motor correctly for the english language. I could even call my whole Quad a motor. Anyone have a engine for a Banshee motor? 98_banshee_newbie is looking for one.

This post caught my attention since my chemistry class just barely touched on it recently. Do a search on octane boosters and check out Wikapedia. There is a few people out there mixing chemicals like tolulene and pump gas at ratios and calculating the octane like jayzx750 did for performance gains. Be careful, Wikapedia explained very well why having higher octane may not produce as much power and how octane is figured differently by area and use.

I seem to get accurate jetting from my inaccurate readings. I do think, try a few different methods of jetting until you come up with a method you confidentlly feel works consistently. Pretty much whatever works for the individual.

I don't really believe in cutting a good plug up to check my jetting but I do check my jetting by running it in different specific throttle settings and checking the color of a used plug. I give it full throttle after second or third gear and run it out to check the main. If I am on sand, wheelies are not usually so much of a problem. If you have got the pilot and needle adjusted use the now proper color light browned plugs and do a short run on the main, if they lighten up or turn white you are too lean. Sometimes you will get a back fire out the exhaust if you are too lean when you pull the clutch in and kill the ignition. If the plug is still the proper brown after the short run give it a longer run, sometimes I will make two or three passes before I pull the clutch in and kill it to check the plugs.

A topend is easily done with the motor in the chassis. Usually I remove the topend, determine the size piston I will need, have the cylinders honed or bored as needed, and then reassemble. You can not inspect the bore to know if it needs a oversize until you remove the cylinders.

I had wicked and he didn't stand behind his product for manufactures defects since I waited a few months before making the claim. I bought the a-arms in the off season and when I tried to install them later they had clearence issues and he would take them back or admit the ball joints were angled wrong. You pay for what you get usually with products that have been around awhile like Wicked, Lonestar and Roll Design.

I finally found a old post for year of engine and frame serial numbers, the only problem it stoped at 1999 for the engine serial numbers. Anyone have a list of 2000 and newer engine serial numbers? The old post was, http://www.bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=73599

You check them by plugging the exhaust ports and intake boots and the pressurizing the crankcase and watch how long it takes to leak down. Usually you do this on a completely assembled motor. The seals are located on either end of the crankshaft.