Sometimes the aluminum axle lock nuts don't have a wide enough slot cut in them, and they will clamp up tight on themselves. Check to see if this is the case, and if it is take a saw and widen the slot so it will tighten on the axle.
Case matching is when you match the bottom of your cylinder transfer ports, to the top of the case where they bolt on. Usually you cut a gasket to match the transfers on the bottom of the cylinder, then lay it on the top of the top case and mark the opening on the case. Then you open up the case to match the cylinders.
Pretty easy to do when you have the cases apart. I just used a Dremel type tool with a rotary file and ground right up to the lines I scribed on the case.
I am in need of a few Banshee flywheels that have been pulled with a thread in type puller every time they have been pulled.
I don't need any junk that is warped from the wrong type of puller, or any that have been hammered on!
My e-mail is [email protected] if you want to contact me.
Thanks.
Nice.
Here is a pic from my 1st trip to Glamis in 1990, racing a fellow Banshee rider up Olds........ sorry about the quality it is an old scanned pic
Banshee's still rule the dunes!
Holeshot, are you still planning on going? Most of the guy's that I was planning on going over with have backed out. May just be the wife and I, and my 2 boys.
Led,
There is a place here in Bartlesville that will powdercoat your frame for $85, and that includes all prep and blasting.
Just in case you are still leaning towards PC.........
Sorry to hear about the crash, that totally sucks. Get plenty of rest and take it easy for awhile.
The dunes seem so soft and innocent, but when your flying along and misread the terrain it can be very hazardous!
Good luck.
Those 3 mods will make a big difference in throttle response and HP. Milling .030" off the head will gain about 2.5 HP, and the 4 degree timing advance is good for 2.1 more HP. The lightened flywheel will let the motor rev much quicker.
I also repaired mine by drilling a hole thru them, and putting a stainless bolt with a nylock nut on it. It has worked for several years so far.........
That is a fair price. The rear shock is simple to remove, jack the rear end up and loosen top shock bolt, bottom shock bolt, and bolt connecting link to swingarm. Then remove the link bolt, then bottom bolt, and then top bolt.
Your done!
I bored it using a Bridgeport mill and a offset boring head. But I have done several since with a 2 1/2" hole saw. Works just as good and a lot less work.