BdBanshee

I charge $35 for the head, and $25 to advance the timing. Hope this helps.

Sounds like the rubber clutch cushions inside the basket are going. You will have to drill out the rivets holding the gear on, and then replace the cushions. My Hinson basket came with bolts to hold the assembly together, you may be able to do this with the stock basket. You would be better off with a new basket that is made to go together like this.

You could install it again, and use a dial indicator to check the T.I.R. (total indicator runout). Just take the magnetic base and attach it to the frame, or footpeg. All my modified flywheels will check within .001" Check it and let us know.

lol...where??? It was down by the river in Coffeyville, KS. As you can see in the background there was a snow the night before, what a mess.

Here is an old pic of mine when it still had front fenders

We are planning on going over the weekend of Oct. 22-24th also. May leave on the 21st, don't know yet............

You just have to drill out the large hammer rivets to remove the gear from the stock basket. Easy to do, everyone with a Hinson has had to do it.

The dings in the squish band and dome of the head won't actually hurt anything, they just look like crap. Take a hone stone or file and lightly remove the places that are dinged and just clean it up a bit. Don't damage or file outside of the dome & squish area, otherwise your gasket probably won't seal correctly. If you have the $$ have the head milled and rechambered for more HP, this will also get rid of any marks from the pieces of the piston that came apart.

The powerband is why we buy 2 strokes. You can ride them slower, and it won't hurt them at all, but in the powerband is where it's at! If I wanted to putt around I would get a 4 stroke.

Even with a Hinson basket you re-use the stock gear. You will have to get one from the dealer or Ebay. You might also look in the "For Sale" forum..............

Take the snorkel off before you even start it!

RPM lists this billet brake hub for $80

You should do a search, we have debated this subject many times. There are many testimonials from people that have had it done and loved it, and the usual it doesn't work from those that haven't tried it.

I also have lightened many flywheels for people here. Pm me for details.

They are heavy junk! Many Polaris's had problems with the exhaust clogging up, just a thought.

We used to have US Cellular(sucked), and now have Cingular. Nationwide coverage, Nights and weekends start @ 9pm, all for $29 a month. My wife got it thru her work. Haven't had any roaming charges, and so far we have had coverage almost everywhere. It's the best deal we have had so far.

After rejetting for the increased air, you should have quite a bit more power from timing advance, lightened flywheel, and pod filters. Not as much as a port job, but a lot cheaper.

Get it at your dealer for about $5 a tube.

That's correct, if you take off more than .030" you will have to recut the squish band to regain the proper clearance.

I was told that the Snap-On tester was the best and only one to use. It's the only Snap-On tool I have, and it wasn't cheap. Works great, I used a cheap Craftsman tester before buying the Snap-On and it doesn't show the same results. Don't know if there are others of the same quality or not, but I wanted to know for sure my exact compression.

Travis, Have you been to both places? If so which is better? Inquiring Duners want to know!

I come in here to browse also.

I always buy B8ES for mine, that's what it came with. The BR8ES is just a resistor plug.

Meat is correct, I had a set done many years ago and it ruined the socket in the ball joint.

I agree with RebelBanshee2, if you haven't backcut neutral I doubt you messed it up. Probably didn't get the shift shaft centering screw adjusted correctly. BTW, if you read the pics it says that the .350" dimension is after modifying. FYI I think Boonman does this mod for around $20