BdBanshee

And here is a pic with the lobes already modified but the neutral mod not machined yet.

Another view.

Here you go, I used to do this mod but don't have the time anymore.

I have had one of the wires from the key switch break inside the insulation before and kill the motor when I turn the bars. Straighten them back out and it would start and run just fine. Sounds like it might be your problem too. I have run 170-175 pounds of compression in my Banshee for the last 15 years with no problems on 91-93 octane with the timing advanced 5 degrees. That doesn't mean you won't have problems, but many people don't.

1st quad I ever had, still have it, my 1988 Banshee.

Even from the dealer a new coil isn't much, somewhere around $40. I wouldn't even bother with a used one.

Clean around the bottom bolt hole of the rear shock, and regrease the spherical bearing that is in there. Then install those two flanged washers, they push into the mounting hole and stay put pretty good. I usually jack the rear end of the Banshee up to get the holes in the linkage to line up with the hole in the shock. It's not hard if you do it like this.

Most people don't have any crank problems with just those mods. When you can get it done I would though, some factory cranks are built tighter than others.

If it's jetted right, you shouldn't have to stop except for fuel.

We brought it with us. Usually try to pack everything we need, otherwise Jim's Sand Toys will treat you right.

The gap should face the exhaust port. Try marking the plug with a marker and threading several in until you find 2 that are close or right on when torqued correctly. Otherwise you have to use the index washers.

Well the trip was unbelieveable! Got there Thursday evening about 7:30PM and the temps dropped and then stayed at mid 70's all weekend with overcast skies. Dunes had no tracks Friday when we went out. Just enough rain sometime early Saturday morning before we got up to put a nice crust on the sand for increased traction. I can't believe we got so lucky to get temps and weather like this in the middle of July. Between my friend and I we burnt 40 gallons of fuel, took advantage of the weather and the fact that we didn't bring our families to do tons of riding. This trip will definetely go down in record book for the best weather ever............

I just use a air or electric impact wrench. You don't have to hold the basket at all, this is probably the easiest way. This also works for the front sprocket, and for the flywheel nut.

We should arrive around 8 pm Thursday, and we plan on camping in one of the pull thru camp sites in the South Campground. If the pull thru sites are full we will head to the North Campground, or Cowboy Camp.

Looks like I'm headed over to Waynoka this Thursday after I get off work. Anyone that wants to hook up just look for my Black Banshee and a Wanderer Wagon 5th wheel with "Got Sand" sticker on the back.

I got a couple of bad Cometic head gaskets that caused mine to do the same thing. Put a OEM Yamaha head gasket on and no more problems. I have also had at least two other friends with the same problem and cure.

I use Paypal but always change to the CC option. Then if I get screwed I can notify VISA and they do a chargeback.

Most likely you ruined your flywheel. Never use any puller except the thread in style. Live and learn, find a good one on Ebay that has been pulled correctly and you'll be back in business.

I used to run my 34mm Keihins with the stock airbox. Just had to make some new rubber hoses that went between the back of the carbs and the airbox.

I straightened mine twice, from two different incidents. Worked great for years, but finally broke! I used a hydraulic press to straighten it, and set it up on a surface plate with indicators to find the high spot. You have to go past straight a ways because it will flex back some. Takes a bit of practice. If you ride hard it would be better to get a replacement.

If you are talking about the carb slides, the side with the cut away goes toward the air filter/airbox. I don't think it will idle with the slides in backwards though............

I have 34PJ's and cut a few coils off of my springs and then stretched them to the original length. Much better! I did this many years ago and it still works great. Many friends have done the same thing with the 35's with the same results. If you do this, when you reinstall put the cut side of the spring up against the carb top. It is a lot more comfortable to put back together this way.

Are you talking about the tube in the axle carrier that fits over the axle but between the two axle bearings? All you need is a piece of tubing faced off to the correct length, I made a new one for mine last time I rebuilt the carrier.

I would definitely replace the gear. If you want straight cut gears you will also have to replace the one on your clutch basket.

I like to assemble it on the bench, and then drop it in. Either way is fine, everyone has a different opinion.