doorslammer

silastic, nice bead around the hole, bout 1mm thick at the most and tighen it together like normal

you can poke and fuck around with it for half an hour and find that you damaged it anyways, i just knocked mine out and got them locally and i dont even have a yammy dealer... just out of curiosity are you trying to get the top or bottom one out?

did ya get my PM loco? not sure if it went though or not

you interested in sending to aus?

what oil do you use in your gearbox?

heat cycling

lol prdered three... this will be last one you'll ever need to replace now

lol, the words flowed like a turd geting flushed down the shitter... anyways, where this kid from and how old is he?

what about my jetting, got a any suggestions on where to start? what about needles, what are you using in your 33's?

depending on how long it ran like that you might ned to rebuild the crank.... if you do then 4 mill long rods would also be a nice addition

got a link to the calculator?

i would make that swap in a heartbeat, if the chassis etc are also in good condition

so my jetting should be a hellava lot smaller then what i posted? also what pipes are you running on your bike now 2strokespirit, i was planning on running PT mids as i plan to race MX. but when im out play riding with mates we do alot of fast riding usually tapped out in 6th...

we'll at least i will be safe starting there (if i can start it lol), ill try whats in th carbs now which are 153 mains and 50 pilots. still unsure about needles, i've been told toomey needles work well... yea, mikuni's i whould have this all down pat but the PWK's are different.

hey all i need some help from you RZ guys with my jetting, after switching to 28mm PWK's i have no clue where to start. im running paul tuner mids, 28mm PWK's, no air box lid, and cool head with 21cc domes at sea level i was thinking around 160 mains and 52 pilots? what about needles? are they as important as i think they are? thanks

maybe you could rig you banshee arms to fit on the raptor with a bit of cutting and some washers? you would need to cut the inside ends of the arms and use a shitload of washers on the outsides. as for the raptor shocks, i believe the SE piggybacks are the same shock as the 450's. but the non piggybacks are 16" long (from memory)

are they much heavier then say a LSR one or stock carrier style one?

raptors are the same as the 450's, so its the same conversion. the only difference is that unless he has a SE the shock wont be piggyback.

while you've got that side cover off and sprocket, check the plugs that go in the holes that the shift fork rods go in, i had one of them come out and it was a slow leak...

std yammy ones are black. if not you could probably get a aftermarked one anodized for not much. but apparently the asv levers are very good

is that for the round house style? i know that a banshee and 660 axle can be interchanged.

damn thats a big difference,im runninf the 450 spindles and am considering getting some fox shocks for the front. what suspension are you planning on using? also, thanks for the spacers brian, bolted up perfect!

no, still on the left, but im not running a long range tank so i dint know there was a clearence problem and i dont have the money, experience or need to move it to the other side. it looks good where you've mounted it as well! i notice your running a cool head, with the outlet facing up, have you mounted another 90 bend ontop of the one out of the coolhead? i was going to do that but was worried about flow (even tho there probably isnt and difference) but anyway i found that by taking the rear section of the stock head and drilling out the threads it mounts perfectly aslo your using a banshee stator right? that requires you to float the ground is it a big job?

looks good, i mounted mine behind the tank, under the seat. then got some custom lenght cables made up, like $60 for 4 of them!

hey all can i use a lonestar bearing carrier for a raptor 660 in my lonestar swingarm on my banshee? thanks