tedd1

If your TORS caps have been replaced and your idle screws are on the sides of the carbs, you probably need to take the idle screws out and file some material off the bosses where the screws are installed.

Best price on CDI (don't want/need wires) shipped to 76067, please.

OK, sounds like you should be pretty close to me. My next guess would be carb tuning. Time for a plug chop?

Did you do compression and leak down after assembly? Did you do a squish measurement? What kind of head/domes are you using? Where is your ignition timing set?

Wait till you sling a chain on them $2k cases...

I agree, the Chariot bowls are tight around the floats. Make sure the floats aren't rubbing/sticking on the inside of the bowls.

Ya, flipping the retainer would be low.

I've seen worse damage repaired. Of course, the results are directly related to the repairer's skills with aluminum...

I pull the filtiers and plug the carbs as well as the exhaust. If I think it will be there a while, I pull the carbs and plug the intakes.

I bought that caliper. They are zero drag, meaning they have springs that push the pistons/pads away from the rotor. In as shipped condition, the banshee master cylinder does not have enough stroke to push the pistons/pads all the way to the rotor and they will not stop at speed. All that is needed is to shorten or remove the springs (what I did) and they work great.

The lighting and ignition circuits are separate. If you are sure everything else is in good shape, it is probably the CDI. I had one die recently.

Yes, pop the clutch cover and you will see. If that orings appears to be in place and intact, it is time to rebuild your water pump.

There is a pipe that connects your water pump to the hose that goes up between the carbs. There is an o ring on that pipe between the cases.

Yes, you could add bowls and pingle and lose the pump. However, before you spend money, double check float level and needle valve.

Read through >THIS<

There is an option to upgrade to TZ bearing for a $50 price increase. TDR Cranks

The only brown wire on a banshee is on the switch side of the connector. The OP's statement led me to believe that he was working on the switch side!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

The connectors are pretty easy to repair. Just look close and figure out how the retention barb works. It will look/work something like these. A small pick works well.

Did those welded cylinders look something like these??

Don't sand blast it. Use beads or hulls.

Take the wire nut off the B and B/W. Grounding the B/W will shut the motor off. Put it on the B/W and B/R where the key used to be. This should get power to the CDI. The R and Br do not matter as they are connected to anything but the plug.

ouch!

I am running a RIS caliper. What is the trouble with it?