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tedd1

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Everything posted by tedd1

  1. Lever Spend the extra $12 and get the bearing.
  2. Welcome! >THIS< will fix your axle nut issue. They have bearings and brakes, too.
  3. IMHO, stiffer is better. the soft shock will soak up the weight transfer. I run a shaw at the dunes/river and adjust so I get ~1" of "squat" when I launch.
  4. Wind 'em up to 10k and dump the clutch (some on pavement)...Ya, that'll last a looong time...
  5. I run a +12 no link with a Shaw. Usually set @ ~1500 psi. I am 200+ lbs. Bike is 250 lbs. I run a zip tie on the shaft and keep the pressure set so I get ~1" of action. If it gives too much, you will lose the weight transfer needed for traction.
  6. Find out for sure what went wrong and fix it. If you just replace the broken parts, you will most likely have the same issues when it is running again. At the very least, do a leak down test before taking it apart. Take some pics of the tear down and post them up. We can guess all day long but without seeing what happened, it will be just a guess.
  7. You are not understanding what everyone here is trying to tell you. Overheating is most likely not the issue here. Tuning is...
  8. Farm And Sand Toys 1 (785) 364-5325 Will fix you right up!!
  9. From the Yamaha Banshee service manual:
  10. All I'm saying is, be careful! There is more to making power in 2 strokes than just more compression.
  11. IMHO, 22cc is borderline for a cub and 100 octane. I wouldn't go smaller than 20cc for 112. I run 19cc domes w/methanol.
  12. If the TORS box is still plugged in, most likely. Unplug it and see...
  13. Do the carbs have idle screws installed on the side?
  14. The big knob on the TORS adjusts the idle. Once you get it to start, adjust until it idles like you want.
  15. The term "lock up clutch" is really misleading. Used properly, they will actually regulate clutch slippage. As stated before, some slippage off the line is needed. I like the DD style. Weights can be adjusted in grams and the whole set up weighs a LOT less.
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