rubberneck

Well put MJ. it kind of pisses me off that he is a sponsor on here. I mean we always tell people, use one of the sponsors, you can trust them, but he is clearly not in that category

Ouch, that sucks. I dont have a dog in the fight, but any gripe you have he should address, not refer you to the original seller. You bought it from him, not somebody else. If he sold it as a DM with an 11 plate clutch and its not, that is his problem to resolve. Just because that is what he was told it was, doesnt get him off the hook in my mind. If selling something imho you are responsible to verify that it is what it is before advertising it for sale and then selling it. Hopefully you guys can get it resolved.

Half these guys are clowns dont listen to them. AK has the right idea, tip the bike on its side and fill the frame back through the peg hole that it drained out of. That is the way the frame was designed. Drain on the wheels tip it back on its side to fill. Then put it back down on all four wheels, pull off the other foot peg and drain that side. Then tip the bike back up on its side and fill that side up. You might need to recheck the level on the first side after doing the second. Should be good to go from there. WD40 is ok, but i prefer ATF the added viscosity helps reduce bump steer.

that is wild, you dont really hear anything but a little whine, then a ton of tires clawing at the sand. that is cool, what times did it run

The extended throttle levers lilke the ones cascade sell suck imho. they are ergonomically wrong and you end up pushing the throttle from the same point as stock if not further in. If you have stock carbs you can cut half a coil off the slide spring, if Keihns, get the soft springs from FAST. However, the best thing you can buy is the chariot performance adjustable throttle. With it you can adjust position at idle and it has an adjustable full throttle stop. It will also open carbs up to 41 mm i believe. I have put them on all my bikes.

that thing does sound bad ass

Anybody that would rely on the key to keep their banshee from disapearing is an idiot in the first place. Second, the info is all over the place, A simple search would have revealed the page i linked. Its a sticky for gods sake

I dont think its possible to do an override without a modded drum. You need that drum or the trans wont work as an override

Yep 06 nailed it, just cut them and splice them together for the keyswitch. That switch works by completing the circuit when put in the on position. For the handlebar on off switch it works the opposite. Completing the circuit kills the bike. (This is important to know if you wan to put in a tether kill switch.) Im goint to do you guys a favor and post a link. Print it out and read it/keep it in your garage it will answer all your electrical probs and provides a wiring diagram. There is nothing on a banshee electrical related that should ever make you take it to a shop. Super simple system, and with the help of this site and the FAQ section you can fix anything. Here you go http://bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=133650

Cam no doubt, for the banshee guy, I think they will be pretty easy to spot. For gods sake they are a monoblock, so any body who knows much about banshees, they will be pretty easy to spot. But for your average 4 stroke guy who kinda knows a little what to look for (like my buddies) it will fool them. They only know to look at the drains. They know if the drains arent there, they are probably going to get beat. LOL

Oh gotcha, yeah i dont think you will have much luck with that oven other than maybe nuts and bolts. I dont have any pics of the extension but next time im at the shop i will snap some. Basically we made a metal cube out of 3/4 inch square steel tube, open on the end that faces the oven and put a fireplace gasket on it. lined the interior with sheetmetal, then insulated it with rock wool, then sheeted the outside with aluminum sheeting. Buiit a door for the other end and the whole thing sits on the open door of the oven with a support under it. Doubles the size of the oven. Idealy we would have a fan in it to circulate air, as the front tends to run about 20 degrees cooler than the main box. thats next on the project list.

In the other post, Jeff from fast stated that the wompus cylinders with CUB port timings will be available this week. But that The wompus cylinders with serval layouts would be available soon. Now he specifically mentioned the 4ml wompus with serval layouts, so i might have jumped the gun above stating a 10mil wompus with serval porting. I made that stretch, but nobody has actually stated that would be available.

i dont know what an ezbake is. I have a hypersmooth gun and i just use an old household range that my neighbor was getting rid of for free cause the cooktop didnt work. Perfect for me cause all i needed was the oven part. I built an extension that sits on the open door and doubles the size of the oven. I can do parts as wide as 19 inches and as long as 40 inches with this set up. Perfect for swingers, arms, cases etc. I wish i had an oven big enough to do a frame, but i might build one someday. I painted my frame and am PCing everything else. I would tell you that if all you are going to do is this bike, take the parts to a shop, you will save money. By the time you buy a sandblaster, rig up an oven of some kind, and then buy a gun, you will probably spend almost as much as if you payed to do the bike, plus if you want an oven big enough for a frame, that will be pricey unless you build/scrounge it up. It is a pretty easy process, but like any finishing technique it takes some practice. I got the clear a little heavy on one side of the right cylinder. cant see it in the pics, but i notice it a bit. Shooting candies and whatnot is the hardest because you need to get a nice smooth even coat and on something like a frame, that will take practice. There are always hard spots that either dont want to take powder or take too much. Again, this is mostly due to user experience, and i am still learning. Just been coating shit around the house and on my bikes and cars for about a year. When i get on a roll and do several little coating projects all at once, i start to get pretty good, then ill jack up a part and have to reshoot it. Some powders spray really easy, some seem to be a pain. So like i say if its something you think you might enjoy doing then go for it, but just to do a bike, i say pay for it.

well the material is pretty tuff so i would think it would be tough with a dremel. With enough patience, enough bits and a steady hand it might be possible, but you would probably be better off just paying a local machine shop to do it. It is really easy with a mill and a 1/4" carbide cutter. including set up it took me about an hour to do 2nd 3rd and 4th, i could probably do the next one in less time. A competent machine shop should have no problem with it.

10 mil wompus will be out in a month. Same port timings as serval but appear stock from exterior down to the drains

Yep needs clear or it oxidizes pretty quickly if outdoors. I havent found a chrome that doesn't which is too bad Because it takes a way a lot of the shine.

Ok cool, when you get it done post pics, id like to see how they did it.

Gots to spend the money on a premium account if you want the free stuff. LOL Forget all that, i want to know about the fire extinguisher bolted to the grab bar on your 4 poke. What is that like an on board fire system or what?

Sorry, i should have been more clear for the mentally challenged My cell PHONE. haha just fucking with ya

Shot my cylinders today in ultimate chrome. Or as i like to call it lazy mans polished aluminum. Looks like polish, but stays polished. LOL trying to decide if im going to do the cases the same or shoot them in pearl black to match the frame. Leaning towards the pearl black. I should have spent a little more time cleaning up the casting flaws, but oh well half the damn things get covered by the pipes. Next time ill be more diligent. Cylinders are 4mm play port done by FAST

Nope i didnt touch the remaining windows and i dont think you need to, but that is my opinion. Some overrides may be backcut at an angle, but my 1-5 duneable is not. They did exactly what i just did. They did put a very radical cut on the dogs but not on the drive side, it is on the coast side and cut such that it will make it come out of gear when shifting up. In an override bike, cutting that face may be ok, because it wont get that many shifts in its life time. I would be concerned with excessive wear if you didnt re-harden the material after you machined it on a duner or trail bike. I can tell you that the first .050" or so was much harder than the rest of the material. I do have some real world experience to back up my theory. My cousin had an old 250r that began popping out of 3rd gear and he took it to a shop that remachined the dogs and windows back square. It only lasted 2 trips and then was doing it again. I split it and found 3rd gear dogs very badly rounded and worn. I replaced the gears with new OEM parts and its been back together over 15 years. Maybe the shee stuff is different, but i doubt any of the guys that cut these for money are going to chime in and give us some tips, so im going with what i know. I have a feeling that as long as everything else is in good shape, there is no reason to change the angles but give it a try and let us know. Im not sure how you will go about actually doing it though. Even with a very small diameter cutter bit you will have a radiused inside corner in the window which is going to prevent full face contact with the dogs. I guess you could round the inside corners on the dogs. Any way have fun and let us know how it works.

Snop have you ever dyonoed with a nology coil. I have the nology and hot wires sittin on the bench, been too lazy to put it on.

That wompus will fool most at a glance for sure with the cylinder drains on the side. Never mind those, look at the bore on that set of cylinders in front. Good god those are huge. That must be a DMX or something

I couldn't find anything in the search either. That second link may have been it, but i dont see any of the pics on that guys page. It looks like it doesnt exist anymore. It was from way back when though, so that could have been it. No matter, I cut it yesterday. I remember most of the details, plus i had an override sitting on the shelf to look at anyway. Here are some pics. They are from my cell so they suck. The finish came out nice and smooth. If anybody decides to try it, you will need carbide cutters as HSS just melted the end off. I ended up cutting 2nd 3rd and 4th gear Here is 2nd gear. 2 lugs gone, working on the 3rd Ready to reassemble The bike im putting it in has RZ shift forks, Shift Pro roller, modded shift star and modded shifter shaft already. It shifts smooth as silk, but every once in a while when in a hurry (like shifitng mid hill climb) it wouldnt go in gear, so i think this should make it about as good as it gets without having an override. Plus i will still be able to backload and abuse the shit out of it.

Hmm, nice i might be getting one of these from santa, i run 6 HD springs on my dune bike