shee rips

when you open up the intake(or exhaust) you have to jet bigger....

you check for squish with a peice of solder. bend it 90 degrees and put it through the spark plug hole . make sure it goes all the way to the side of the cylinder. then turn the motor over with the kickstarter so the piston squishes the solder. then pull it out and measure it. that is your squish. it is strange the way the compression jumped that much. is it possible that they are smaller domes or something. :shrug:

i would run 91 octane and then it should be fine. i think on 89 youre cutting it close

im running 91 octane. the head is shaved .020, and i dont have money for a cool head right now. no i didnt change the jetting after the timing change, didnt seem to need it. i will check them after a hard run once its going again though. i was planning on checking to make sure everything was straight too, but thanks for good advice :thumbsup: i also ordered a new gear, bearing and seal. figured while im in there i might as well.

what do you guys think about this. billet impeller is on its way.... since i advanced my timing (3 degrees for now) shee has been running a little warmer. i was climbing in a few inches of snow last weekend and when i shut it off i could hear the coolant boiling in the head. later that day my dad said he heard it after burning around a pit too. on friday i took her out, and i kept checking how warm it was, because i thought the impeller might be giving out. about 10 minutes into the ride it felt hot, and then i checked the rad and it was hardly warm. it took half a liter to top it off. another minute or so up the trail it started pouring white smoke/steam from the exhaust, but for the most part only under a hard load in a high gear. after about another minute it got worse and i stopped and had lost another half liter from 2 minutes of riding. i let her cool off and filled it back up, and gently headed for home. i stopped at every clean looking creek and topped off the rad (about half a liter every 5 minutes still) it still ran alright :shrug: today i drained what was mostly water after being diluted, and the impeller seems ok from the outside. havent pulled the head off yet either

those look very similar to maxxis i-razrs. cool lookin tire, good price, i figure you cant go wrong, as long as they work :shrug:

i am running 15/41 with 22" tires. mods in sig first gear can be a little fast in tight and/or rough trails. you need to let it rev in 5th before you shift to 6th otherwise it might not stay in the powerband right away. you get used to it quick tho. i like it now that im used to it

I have always run this tc-w3 oil in everything. the stuff i use isnt the cheapest stuff i can find or anything. it works out to like 6 bucks a liter when you buy a case of it. nowhere on it does it say outboard oil. it has a picture of a sled, a dirtbike a quad and a boat on the bottle :shrug: i ran it in my 125 and raced motocross with it, and ran it hard on the logging roads too. every time i tore it down it looked perfect inside. the only time it ever blew up was after about 5 miutes of wide open 5th gear down the road. it seized the connecting rod to the crankshaft, but the cylinder and piston still looked good. this is my experience with it.

i actually laughed out loud at that one :yelrotflmao: thanks for the laugh :beer:

that kinda sounds like the 450 had a shitty tire to me :shrug: it is almost embarassing to get your ass handed to you as bad as putting a bolt on banshee against even a stock 450 bike i would be impressed if you beat him with the 4 mil. i think it should be fairly close if you have traction

you can build anything you put you mind to. :wink: if you need some motivation this should make building a subframe look easy.....http://ca.youtube.com/watch?v=9f6YxAvcxhU ps if anything goes wrong i didnt advise you to do it

the longer rod lessens the stress on the bottom end because it decreases the angle of the connecting rod, which is increased when you go to a stroker crank. i think i answered the question but there are many people on here who could explain it better..

if a lot of your riding is like your picture with the quad sitting in the river, then i would recommend keeping the airbox

haha some people pay good money to get exhaust flamethrower kits put on their cars :biggrin:

i wouldnt have put the oil in there in the first place , but it should be fine if you run it. just change the plugs once it stops smoking, if they dont foul before then. :biggrin: might be a good idea to clean the carbon off the head after burning all that oil :shrug:

i have the same mods, pipes, filter, shaved head and timing(haha good old wiseco pistons for me though ) i am also considering getting reeds, but i am wondering how much of a difference i would notice between a set of VF3s or boyesen petals in the stock cages. i have also read that people port the stock cages.

for a comparison here, my yz 125 was ported and had some head work done, set up for mx, and it would pull on a banshee with fattys and a k&n and another with T6s and a k&n. i would get about 2-3 lengths on them in a race on the road. we would usually go the distance of 3 power poles, and i was topped out before the second so they would already be gaining a bit on me by the end becasue they had a bit more top speed than me. i think my shee would get it though with the shaved head and timing :shrug: then one day i rode my buddies done up crf 450 and my arms were trembling when i came back from down the road, so those 450 dirtbikes are damn fast something like 50 hp stock i think :woot:

seeing how the cylinders are done next time they need a bore, shaving the top of the cylinders sounds like a good idea to me

there are easier ways to get more power from a stock banshee. one good way is some aftermarket pipes.....

how much did you get taken off the head? higher compression and +6 timing may have been too much for pump gas. assuming that you run pump gas that is....

i doubt that 20cc domes would actually get you 185 psi. if your compression was actually 185, then i would probably do it when you get down to like 165 psi, or even if the guage isnt accurate if it reads 20 psi lower than before i would say thats good time to rebuild.

assuming your stock head isnt shaved, you could either shave it .020 (about 30 bucks), or get a cool head with 21 cc domes. With that you would still be ok on pump gas and it would make a noticeable difference. Because you ride in the desert/dunes the cool head might be a good idea. if you dont mind running race gas you could get smaller domes for the coolhead. i dont have any personal experience with high compression race gas motors, but i think the sweet spot for compression is around 170 psi before you start sacrificing top end power. if you were to run race gas you could probably advance the timing more, depending on where it is set right now.

increasing the compression a little will help, especially on the bottom end.

bearclaws hook up very well, but they are also very heavy. they make the quad feel sluggish and they take away the snap when you hit powerband. and they will fit your rim just fine.

shitty deal about the crash....glad your ok. that stem looks niiiiiiceeee :thumbsup: what does one of those cost?