shee rips

try unplugging that white plug above the left cylinder. my quad was doing basically the same thing except not all the time but was getting worse , and i did that and its fine now.

i also just have th erad cover. sorry no pics. mine is more black than grey so from a distance you cant really see it.

you dont really need an adaptor for the k&n. if your using the airbox lid i think it sits in there the same way as the stock one. not sure on that because the bike came with the filter. if you dont want to run the airbox lid you cane just screw the plastic adaptor to the air box. edit: and please dont pay a shop to change the head gasket :shoothead:

my bad

first off stock garing is 14/41, and yea you would be fine with a 15 tooth on the front, but i wouldnt go any bigger than that :thumbsup:

hahaha pretty much :cool:

before you order the top end kit pull off the head and make sure the cylinders are fine and you dont need a bore. the dealership here told me to make sure because they wouldnt take the wisecos back.

hahah ill come do it for 500 before you take it there :biggrin: lol seriously though, 600$ sounds real steep to do a banshee top end, even if that includes parts it still sounds a bit high. if you are even a little mechanically inclined you shouldnt have a problem doing it yourself if you have a manual :thumbsup:

i didnt unplug anything. just put the ground as close as you can to where your welding.

i wouldnt go and rebuild the whole tranny. i dont think that would fix the problem. i would maybe try adjusting the shift shaft before you do anything drastic.

i think the 06 black plastics look sweet. if you insist on changing them i would probably go red

i think fmfs are underrated. for all around riding i think they are an excellent choice, but i may be bias

maybe you have a needle valve stuck open :shrug:

i took mine to the old man with the machine shop down the road from my house. i dropped it off after workand he told me to come back at 7 :smile: it cost me 30 bucks

sounds to me like your compression is still fine. If it gets to 100 i'd say its rebuild time. i milled my head .020 and i had around 145 psi before the top end was broken in. im not sure what it has now. milling it .020 put the squish at around .035. im not sure what the limit for squish is, but i dont think i would want to go less than around.030 someone else could give you better info on this than me but shaving the head is a good cheap mod :thumbsup:

it will take out the crease mark, but be real careful because yes if you melt the plastic it will eventually crack. i tried a blow drier and it did a bit but not really. i didnt have a heat gun so i used a propane torch :shoothead: and it is real hard to control the heat with one of those and i melted it, ever so slightly, but chances are if you see it get glossy at all from the heat youve melted it, and it will probably break. good luck

you could probaly find someone to shave the head for cheaper than 75$. mine cost me 30 EDIT-dont waste your money on a boost bottle. put that money into an adjustable timing plate instead. :thumbsup:

thanks for that one fastbanshee8. sounds like when i have more money to spend on this thing ill probbaly go for vf3s because theyre already proven.

i found these on the duncan site and though they look nifty does anyone have any experience with them or care to share an opinion i was thinking vf3s, but im not really set on anything in particular. http://www.duncanracing.com/prods/PRV-350/

the 40 on th eback sounds about right, but that 26 on the front sound like you counted twice around the sprocket :beer:

and it should say on the back of the bottle how much to use for whatever ratio you want.

as soon as i read the title of this thread i started thinking "here we go again" on a more positive note i use co-op oil i think its called sonic dynamix and at 32/1 i havent changed my tranny oil yet but will in a few days. when i do ill use bel ray gear saver because i liked that stuff in my dirtbike.

ya i know but :shoothead: because it can be done is as good a reason as any i guess.

i shaved my head .020 and with fresh pistons and rings i had 145 on each side before i even started the motor. i havent tested it since i broke it in but i dont think it will have changed much. im at probably 200 feet above sea level and my squish is .035. i just threw that out there for reference, but my cylinders arent ported so......that raised exhaust port probbaly accounts for the slighly less compression. you could probably mill the head a little more if you want to get it in the 140-150 range EDIT i just read after i posted that you are getting a coolhead on there so i guess i better get to bed im not paying attention to what im talking about here :shrug:

i have a question of my own. what would you be doing that requires more power than a stock cr 500 is capable of?